Best Turbo?
#23
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If it's anything like the Aerodyne turbo that I had back in the mid late '90's, my recommendation would be to:
a) Return it if you can
b) Say a prayer for it and hope it doesn't seize up or wallow out bearings, ultimately resulting in no boost, but a nice goose sound under the hood.
c) Keep the boost at 6-8-psi and just don't push it. Anything over that and I'd feel really nervous.
a) Return it if you can
b) Say a prayer for it and hope it doesn't seize up or wallow out bearings, ultimately resulting in no boost, but a nice goose sound under the hood.
c) Keep the boost at 6-8-psi and just don't push it. Anything over that and I'd feel really nervous.
#24
I would love to have a manifold that looks like the one that was scrolling as pauls display picture around 2 months ago.. looks like a 1.8L kind of but fits a 1.6... my problem is that im having difficulty keeping the turbo on the car... the bolts back off or sheer no matter what i do. let me know what you think
#28
This is silly if you want cheap buy megan racing or weld it yourself if you want reliable Get tim or Corky to make you something. FWIW i have had 0 stud failures on my manifold but read about blue million on this site and other miata sites. I think people are
A. undertorqueing the bolts allowing them to rattle and then sheer do to momentum and repetition.
B. Overtorqueing and weakining the bolts.
C. using garbage bolts to hold something that sees forces in the 300 lbs range acting upon it from time to time in periods rangeing from several minutes to seconds, all with a manifold metal temperature of 1400 or so Degrees farenheit.
A. undertorqueing the bolts allowing them to rattle and then sheer do to momentum and repetition.
B. Overtorqueing and weakining the bolts.
C. using garbage bolts to hold something that sees forces in the 300 lbs range acting upon it from time to time in periods rangeing from several minutes to seconds, all with a manifold metal temperature of 1400 or so Degrees farenheit.
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