For an improperly drilled and tapped hole like most people finish with after drilling/tapping with the pan in the car, yes, use JBWeld. For a properly drilled and tapped pan with the pan removed, using Teflon tape or Teflon goo would work. Their purpose is to lubricate the NPT threads so you can screw it in tighter, making a better seal, which is done completely with the threads, not any type of liquid sealant.

 

a local guy just lost a motor due to shavings from drilling the pan. I know 1000,0000x57 billion people have done it on the car, but I'd pull the pan.

 

Just my 2 pennies..I did mine off the car off,the engine.I put it on the shops Devlieg horizontal boring mill,drilled it 35/64",Tapped it 1/2"NPT,washed it in the parts washer.then I screwed my SS fitting in,and silver brazed it.Mine is PERMANENT,and 0 chips anywhere near my new bottom end.Feel free to omit the part that involves the 1/2 million dollar machine shop.but the rest might work for you.
(G)

 

Our Devlieg was awesome, then they fired the only guy that knew how to run it. /thread jack.

 

Those things are as easy as smacking kids to run.
(G)

 

Don't be a *****, leave it on. Use butt loads of bearing grease on the bits and tap. Most of all take your time. Flush it out with mineral spirits or oil then use thread sealer and you'll be a ok.

 

This...but couldn't you have done the same job on an old Bridgeport?


Stealth97's comment is why I said pulling the motor (and pan) is the "safe" way. I'm going to have a motor out soon, and had considered drilling it on the stand and just flushing...but I'm really considered a better, more permanent solution like yours.

 

If you do, weld in only a short coupler so it can be plugged if you remove the turbo.

 

so... friends who are helping me out say I must remove the oil pan or else they won't help.

can anyone point me to a general idea of how to get the sucker off, and any possible maint. items i'll need on top of it?

 

just curious how do you lose a motor when there is an oil filter?

 

I think I talked to you about this at the last roadster meet. I did mine on the car. I drained my oil afterwards. Any metal that is small enough to fit through the oil screen in the pickup tube should easily pass through oil pump clearances and be trapped in the oil filter.

Be a man, drill the pan on the car. If you want to be extra careful overfill your oil pan with oil, so as your drill penetrates the oil flows out the whole clearing the shavings.

 

That's a great idea. It's better and lazy so double win!

 

Ill be doing mine on car,after reading this.

 

Do NOT ever use teflon tape on your engine. NEVER. NOWHERE.

 

It will cost you more aggravation to get their help than to do it on your own leaving the motor in the car.

 

Why is this? I'm curious... Do you mean don't use Teflon tape if you don't know how to install it properly or not at all?

 

Teflon tape has the nasty habit of ripping off in chunks and clogging important things like oil pickups and turbo oil feeds.

 

If you must pull the pan, you can drop the subframe after suspending the engine from the shock towers (or nearby). Somebody is actually marketing a pipe tool for this purpose to Miata racers. It's a matter of disconnecting brake lines, shock hats and then the six subframe bolts and lowering it down. I did it with a lift and it was surprisingly simple. W/o a lift may be different.

I can't imagine using so much teflon tape that it actually gets past the threads you're trying to seal.

 

Yes, this is true if it is installed incorrectly... I don't see what the harm would be if it was install correctly though. I would see the Teflon 'goo' as more of a mess and more likely to get into your system over the tape.

 

this