Best way to remove/tap the oil pan?
No issues with this. AC and PS were in place at the time. Never had a leak there.
I pressurized the block with about 5psi and drilled slowly to let the shavings fall out. I also flushed with 2 gal of mineral spirits.
I pressurized the block with about 5psi and drilled slowly to let the shavings fall out. I also flushed with 2 gal of mineral spirits.
go slow when drilling and don't let the drill bit get deep into the oil pan when it finally "breaks through". you can hit the oil pickup tube with the drill bit and poke a hole in it - no bueno.
I was just under there with a right angle pneumatic, right angle craftsman, normal craftsman.
With the size of the shank of the drill bit in consideration, None of those will work. I bought a cheap HB right angle drill extension and will make the craftsman chuck fit.
With the size of the shank of the drill bit in consideration, None of those will work. I bought a cheap HB right angle drill extension and will make the craftsman chuck fit.
The hole you need is, IIRC, 37/64". There are bits that size with reduction shanks (1/2" shanks) and bits without, you want the one with.
(That, incidentally, is why we wound up having to use that Hole Hawg -- my friend's kit had come with a non-reduction shank bit, and it was only drill we could find/rent that had a chuck bigger than 1/2").
--Ian
(That, incidentally, is why we wound up having to use that Hole Hawg -- my friend's kit had come with a non-reduction shank bit, and it was only drill we could find/rent that had a chuck bigger than 1/2").
--Ian
I must have a weird miata.
The shank on my bit is actually 1/2 so my options were lessened.
I finally got the hole drilled by shortening the bit, drilling out a socket and pounded the socket onto the bit.
I then used a cordless socket driver.

Just enough room.
The shank on my bit is actually 1/2 so my options were lessened.
I finally got the hole drilled by shortening the bit, drilling out a socket and pounded the socket onto the bit.
I then used a cordless socket driver.
Just enough room.
If there is not enough room for a drill, why not make the drill bit longer? I was able to drill and tap my oil pan by going through the driver side wheel well...with about 3ft of extension. With such a long extension, it is easy to make the hole absolutely straight. Put tape on the bits so when they break through, they won't suck in and hit your oil pickup (be ready for that).
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...302#post247302
Liberal grease & frequent cleaning of the drill bits will catch 99.9% of the shavings. The mineral spirits will wash out the rest.
Removing the oil pan while the motor is still in the car as a complete and total pain in the ***. Getting the pan back on without it leaking is just about impossible with the motor in the car.
I think everyone obsesses on this the first time they do it...obscene references are soon to follow
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...302#post247302
Liberal grease & frequent cleaning of the drill bits will catch 99.9% of the shavings. The mineral spirits will wash out the rest.
Removing the oil pan while the motor is still in the car as a complete and total pain in the ***. Getting the pan back on without it leaking is just about impossible with the motor in the car.
I think everyone obsesses on this the first time they do it...obscene references are soon to follow
Last edited by secretsquirrel; Dec 5, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
"the guy" was me...I have ps & ac and did it with minimal effort. If this task is giving you problems, maybe you should have someone else do the job - there are much more difficult tasks ahead...
I would never want a Honda.
I am technically skilled. I have done much harder work on various vehicles. This was not a hard task, just annoying and time consuming. The stupid drain was the hardest part of my turbo install. I am done with my install, just waiting for the backorded turbo.
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you're welcome and good luck with the build!
