thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

So I have been majorly slacking with my car lately as I have been pretty busy with all kinds of other stuff. I did, however, just put a walbro 255 fuel pump in my car yesterday, so now my fuel pump issue is corrected. I had my newly built MS-II plugged in and I cranked the car over. Sounded like it wanted to start as it hickup'd a bit, but I stopped cranking it and I plugged in the stock ECU. I gave it a crank and it started right off, but ran like ****. So I notice my LC-1 gauge read wayyyy lean, and it was only pulling like 12 inches of vacuum. So I break out my timing light and hook to #1 plug wire...no spark at all. I hook to #4 plug wire...same thing. I hook to 2 & 3 and get nice clean spark.
Now just after my car originally left me sit, I tested the resistance on the coils and I noticed that I got no continuity on coil #1. So I bought just 1 coil from another member and I swapped it out, but now it doesn't wanna fire?? The resistance from post to post is like 9.6 k ohms, the numbers stamped on the coils are the same as coil #2, but why no output?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

So I guess what I'm gonna do is switch the coils and then try it again. If I get spark then on 1&4 but not 2&3, then the coil is bad. If vise versa, then maybe ecu or wiring...

nickblackbelt

iTrader: (5)

ever fix this? i was having the same problem but mine was the crank sensor. but now it gets spark all on but the coil on 1&4 keeps getting hot. then it like back fires out the intake

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Yes I did fix this problem. I swtiched the coils and it ran on 2&3, so I bought a new coil for 1&4 and it fixed the problem. You can test the resistance of your coils and according to the Haynes manual, it needs to be within certain ohms to test good. I do believe this goes along with mileage, so if your car has over 125,000 miles, it might be time for new coils, or at least 1.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I also want to mention that you should get an award for searching and not creating a thread about something dumbassed that you should've searched for in the first place. So as I sit here at 12:40AM holding a 24oz mug filled with Fort Collins Chocolate Stout..."here's to you"!

nickblackbelt

iTrader: (5)

LOL damn... i did make a thead and got no where...i get spark on all of them now. but after like 10 sec of cranking the 1&4 Coil gets way hot. i have 6 different coils.... my car has 60k miles and i have replaced all kinds of stuff. i am thinking bad ground. but i wanted to ask before i go spend the day messing with stuff that does not need it

Camiata2

about a week ago, my car just suddenly died on me when i came to a stop light. after doing other things, when i pulled all my spark plugs, i noticed that the #1 and #4 cylinder plugs are fouled completely. i'm thinking that the coil going to those cylinders went bad, and this is the reason that my car won't start. it makes an effort but doesn't want to fully fire it seems. am i on the right track here with this line of thinking that the coil is the culprit?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Sounds like it to me. 1 & 4 are on the same coil. The plugs are wet cause they're not firing, so I'd blame the coil for sure. What year is your car, and how many miles? Please create a signature with your details in it.

Camiata2

it's got about 156000 mi on it, it's a 90. recently did a 1.8L swap. quick question, would i be able to use the 1.8L coils? i received a set with the engine that i ordered, but was unsure about compatibility with 1.6L electronics. so i just used the coils from my 1.6L.

steelrat

Same thing... Coil for 1&4 died on the way home from work.... well basically right across the street from the house. Did a whole bunch of troubleshooting, and eventually figured out, no spark on 1&4. Swapped the coils out for cops that I have been waiting to install. Worked fine. Since I'm not ready for the cops full time yet, just got a replacement coil....

1.6 coils have a separate ignitor module.... 1.8 coils have them integrated....

Dave,