;)

I'm going to attempt to drill these tial bolts with .062" hole tomorrow during lunch. I'm too hungry to do it now & Meg's got "dinner" waiting at home.

Why go through the trouble of nordlock when red Loctite will change the chemical composition of the metal and stop the bolt from relaxing?

We have six pages of people understanding that these bolts are stretching and relaxing, yet people still can't seem to get it through their heads.

you might want to place your order for a dozen solid carbide bits from mcmaster or head over there.

I was told to get a half dozen cobalt split point drill bits (only $1.50/ea) but it turns out we have a box of 'em at work. I'll replace whatever I go through. I live 10 miles from mcmaster so that works out :)

We have seven pages of people not sure which bolts you are talking about then the realization that you are still using stainless hardware which will definitely stretch and relax at those temps. The inconel will work better for you for the same reasons Trackspeed's 10mm hardware will keep your old garrett turbine on a cheaper manifold. I will drill the tial inconel bolts for you or you can make little tab strap things. Or have Abe make you a crane that won't fix the issue.

Tim, I owe you many beers.

Surprisingly, the SS bolts with inconel wire last ~5 track days, the unwired fancy bolts last a few minutes before they fall out.

Let me see what's up with my local machinist and if that doesn't work I'll have to do some 2-day air back and forth, or I'll buy whatever you have. Now that I'm getting serious in TT and paying $300 in entry fees, getting the car perfect before each race is essential.

nice. I will be interested to find out as well. Tim, possible to drill the tial bolts in my kit if you haven't ship them out yet.

Hustler, what is your turbine inlet temp at full sustained load?

How much do you normally pay? after paying for timing most MC events are $190 "buttonwillow"-$330 "Laguna seca" here in Cali.

I don't know, EGT is in a box. After what I went through on the cast manifold, I'm afraid to drill and tap this manifold. I assume it's nothing irrational because the motor has about 30-hours on it and it would have died by now if it were too high. I'm running 22-26* advance at WOT from 4000-7000 at 11.5:1 AFR.

$180 for one day, but I'm trying to do Sat/Sun for $300 to stay competitive.

Probably higher than mine (TX93/94 vs E85), and I have the same issue.

http://www.mobbius.com/topics/3416?page=1#54061


Who are you? Jason? If I can drill these then I will for all the kits I still have and anyone who has bought stuff from me can send theirs back and I'll drill them too.

Yes Tim. It's me. Cool, thank you for doing this!
- Jason

In that case then all this bolt-backing-out nonsense has to be vibration-driven.

What, the SS or the Inconel? The SS galls and stretches, so that's definitely not vibration.

The Inconel hardware may not back out, but Trey and I aren't about to spend $500 per experiment to find out. Wire guarantees that if it comes a little loose, the turbo will probably still survive. If there's no wire and they come loose, you're on the hook for nearly a thousand bucks.

Today at lunch I attempted to drill .062 holes thru 10mm of tial inconel. Over 60 minutes I ate 7 cobalt drills, broke 2 within the hole, and only managed to drill two thru (not including the two I scrapped due to a stuck broken drill bit).

Just now one of our prototype machinists (who hooked me up with the fixtures, tools, speeds, tips, etc) spot faced and drilled one bolt thru in 1 minute 40 sec, done, while he was also running another machine. I just don't got the feel for drilling apparently (too fast and you bust it, too slow and you work harden the inconel and bust it). He's gonna stare at me tomrrow for a few minutes to see what I'm doing wrong. But if it wasn't a fluke and it can be done with a $1.50 drill bit and a few min a piece then it should be cheap.

Great news that you can do it.

I can't yet.

Well that your shop can do it I should say.

But, but, you're special...yeah?