clutch job advice
Lots of brake parts cleaner or some other degreaser to clean out the bell housing. A little grease around the main shaft helps the trans spline a little easier. Oh and be absolutely sure not to touch the flywheel or clutch disc/friction surface with greasy fingers. That causes all kinds of nasty things to happen.
you should have a can of brake cleaner handy to clean all parts before/during installation. use even star-pattern torque on PP.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,029
Total Cats: 304
From: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
Don't drink any beer. I did and I f'd around doing my clutch, ended up taking longer than it shoulda, while brain got his done (with help from Lars?) in record time.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,029
Total Cats: 304
From: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
I had mine out and the tranny back in and bolted up in like 3 hours. Then I realized I was seein double and I called it a night. The next day I had to put the starter back in, the console, and the FM downpipe back together. That was about it, so I guess it really only took me 6 hours at most, but that was spaced out over like 3 days. Then I had to adjust my clutch rod, and it turned out my master cylinder crapped out, so I had to change that so I did a slave cylinder and braided line right away also.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Use AMSoil MTG if you're going to track it.
Soak all exhaust stuff in PB Blaster unless you're a man and rock v-bands like me.
Assemble with lots of anti-seize thread dressing. I dress every bolt in my car and it makes everything significantly easier to work on. I swapped the rear spindles last week in 30-minutes for a reason, with no hammer.
Soak all exhaust stuff in PB Blaster unless you're a man and rock v-bands like me.
Assemble with lots of anti-seize thread dressing. I dress every bolt in my car and it makes everything significantly easier to work on. I swapped the rear spindles last week in 30-minutes for a reason, with no hammer.
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