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Old 01-23-2007, 01:26 AM   #21
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re ClutchNet... I think Alex and Oleg are the owners (russian accents?)

they've always been a little weird to deal with for me too but somehow got everything right more than once for a decent price. I think part numbers aren't something they're used to.
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Old 01-23-2007, 01:30 AM   #22
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What is the best non-puck disk that clutchnet sells for the 1.6?
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:49 AM   #23
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I still wish FM would have straightened out their kevlar clutch problems with Clutchmasters. Some failed because of a QC problem with the rivets. I had a good one though that held the abuse of an early FMII at 220 rwhp and had stock pedal effort. I might have to try clutchmasters again if this Spec stage II starts slipping.

Frank
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:14 AM   #24
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I had to be persistent to get the info from clutchnet guys, but the product looks top notch and has worked well for the first 200 miles.

though this looks like a puck disc, it doesn't grab like one because of the friction material. I was told this is the highest level non-ceramitallic they have.
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:44 AM   #25
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Quote:
It is a great Heavy Duty clutch disc for street racing.
Well that's all the endorsment I need! If my SPEC setup goes south I'll give this disc a try, then I can live my life a 1/4 mile at a time.

Thanks for the recommendation.
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:54 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
What is the best non-puck disk that clutchnet sells for the 1.6?
frankly I think organic.

if you want drivable, get a heavy pressure plate and an organic disk. sure it'll hurt your leg but the rest will work right.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:03 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
frankly I think organic.

if you want drivable, get a heavy pressure plate and an organic disk. sure it'll hurt your leg but the rest will work right.
I have a Spec stage 2 with less than 5K on it installed in the car now. In the event that I have trouble I'd like to replace the disk only if that is indeed the potential weak part of the Spec clutch.

Who knows, I might be just fine with what I've got. I was just considering options in the event that things go south.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:07 PM   #28
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maybe that's what alex had in mind for me.

heh first 200 miles on the car, or first 200 after break in?

Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I had to be persistent to get the info from clutchnet guys, but the product looks top notch and has worked well for the first 200 miles.

though this looks like a puck disc, it doesn't grab like one because of the friction material. I was told this is the highest level non-ceramitallic they have.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
I acutally haven't gotten it to slip since that one day when NeoGenesis2004 was in the car. but still I want to eventually run 250rwhp so I might as well not risk it. plus i was already going to drop the tranny.
What is the break in period for an ACT?
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:10 PM   #30
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I think it is usually 500 miles or so isn't it?
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:13 PM   #31
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Every clutch i'm familiar with 500 miles is the safe zone for break in. In other words, one good weekend to Atlanta and back.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:14 PM   #32
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Yep 500 miles
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:15 PM   #33
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That'll be a tough 500 miles. Might take me 2 months.

What do I want to avoid--fast starts, power, or both? Can I bring boost down to greddy stock 5-6 psi (ugh) and take it easy, or should I totally keep it in vacuum?

Traffic is NOT a problem here.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:17 PM   #34
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I also beleive that those 500 miles are supposed to be in traffic
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:26 PM   #35
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My dad explained to me that you don't want to shock the clutch. Try driving with an open cup of coffee on your dash.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
I have a Spec stage 2 with less than 5K on it installed in the car now. In the event that I have trouble I'd like to replace the disk only if that is indeed the potential weak part of the Spec clutch.

Who knows, I might be just fine with what I've got. I was just considering options in the event that things go south.
the thing is you dont really change coefficient of friction when you use kevlar, carbon, fibery whosit, or organic. it's all pretty close. you only get it by going to a puck (sintered ceramic/metallic, copper, etc) but it also means no dynamic slip (smooth engagement).

that's the key to a good clutch. low dynamic coeff of friction + high static coeff of friction. there isn't such a beast.

maybe I should design a kevlar-copper alternating puck setup. that'd be real cool. have the kevlar engage first and then once it's there, let the copper grab.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:04 PM   #37
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what about something like I'm putting in?

The PP side is a standard 23-spline disc, the flywheel side; (8) pucks of kevlar material.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:07 PM   #38
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I'm thinking about these guys:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

They did the clutch in my vw which has a slightly stiffer pedal feel, and held 410lb/ft at the wheels. He quoted me a price cheaper than the website in email, and said he can raise the engagement point for us people that don't like pressing the pedal all the way to the floor.

I know results are not the same from each application, but atleast the friction material stayed on the disc unlike my clutchnet disc that only lasted 1 week.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
That'll be a tough 500 miles. Might take me 2 months.

What do I want to avoid--fast starts, power, or both? Can I bring boost down to greddy stock 5-6 psi (ugh) and take it easy, or should I totally keep it in vacuum?

Traffic is NOT a problem here.
Don't do things that stress the clutch...like put a bunch of torque on it. Stop and go traffic will break the clutch in fastest. After 500 city miles, drive the car progressively harder while not allowing slipping, until you give it all you've got.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:26 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
what about something like I'm putting in?

The PP side is a standard 23-spline disc, the flywheel side; (8) pucks of kevlar material.
i've seen those types... like the centerforce dual friction ones.

as far as kevlar goes, it's a hard material to deal with... it glazes easily and has a lower cf than organic. but it engages nicely in my experience.

I had this on my celica alltrac:


and it mostly made stink smell when i did clutch drops.

so if you could find a way to make ONLY the kevlar engage first, then you could have nice slippage and when you were, say 50% engaged, have the copper take over... bam power holding and decent engagement. question is: how do you make the kevlar not wear out right away.

I was thinking maybe using a marcel under the kevlar but not the copper... hrm.
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