coolant re-route
#43
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Point Pleasant, NJ
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the retardedness doesn't end. I see it is handed down, generation to generation.
did you not see my post saying my car runs too cool with just two 1/8" holes?
if you have an efficient radiator and you do the coolant reroute you are gonna have problems running with no t-stat. your car will stay in warm up enrichment mode and dump fuel. there is no reason you can't get that car running at a suitable temperature with the mods we've laid out
did you not see my post saying my car runs too cool with just two 1/8" holes?
if you have an efficient radiator and you do the coolant reroute you are gonna have problems running with no t-stat. your car will stay in warm up enrichment mode and dump fuel. there is no reason you can't get that car running at a suitable temperature with the mods we've laid out
#47
the retardedness doesn't end. I see it is handed down, generation to generation.
did you not see my post saying my car runs too cool with just two 1/8" holes?
if you have an efficient radiator and you do the coolant reroute you are gonna have problems running with no t-stat. your car will stay in warm up enrichment mode and dump fuel. there is no reason you can't get that car running at a suitable temperature with the mods we've laid out
did you not see my post saying my car runs too cool with just two 1/8" holes?
if you have an efficient radiator and you do the coolant reroute you are gonna have problems running with no t-stat. your car will stay in warm up enrichment mode and dump fuel. there is no reason you can't get that car running at a suitable temperature with the mods we've laid out
#51
First of all hustler, your a DA. i do all the work myself, and or with my father. I have been working on cars, dirtbikes, motorcycles, go karts, pretty much anything with a motor since i was born. so dont tell me im one that just sits around twiddling my thumbs watching someone do the work for me. and your a DA, the coolant temp needs to be 160 for the tstat to open, not the outside air. even if it was... the tar on the track is over 100 degrees on a 75-80 degree day. and that heat just radiates up. so think before you trash someone.
#54
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
First of all hustler, your a DA. i do all the work myself, and or with my father. I have been working on cars, dirtbikes, motorcycles, go karts, pretty much anything with a motor since i was born. so dont tell me im one that just sits around twiddling my thumbs watching someone do the work for me. and your a DA, the coolant temp needs to be 160 for the tstat to open, not the outside air. even if it was... the tar on the track is over 100 degrees on a 75-80 degree day. and that heat just radiates up. so think before you trash someone.
#55
most of my track days are in the summer, i dont really run it on the street. i have 2 races this year in the fall. Currently every single race ive been to.. i raced in 50 degree weather, i overheat in 10 minutes of hot laps, i have an aftermarket dual core alluminum rad. i removed the tstat, and its better, but it pegs over in 15 min. no matter what right now.
#57
Tour de Franzia
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
most of my track days are in the summer, i dont really run it on the street. i have 2 races this year in the fall. Currently every single race ive been to.. i raced in 50 degree weather, i overheat in 10 minutes of hot laps, i have an aftermarket dual core alluminum rad. i removed the tstat, and its better, but it pegs over in 15 min. no matter what right now.
I've seen 99-2000 cars to overheat with a 52mm koyo when naturally aspirated in 95* heat last summer. Sealing off the mouth of the car is going to help cooling more than anything else, but the reroute is necessary.
what radiator do you run?
I've been thinking about running a big *** vent in the hood, and ducting out the radiator like a proper gt car.
#59
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Point Pleasant, NJ
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most of my track days are in the summer, i dont really run it on the street. i have 2 races this year in the fall. Currently every single race ive been to.. i raced in 50 degree weather, i overheat in 10 minutes of hot laps, i have an aftermarket dual core alluminum rad. i removed the tstat, and its better, but it pegs over in 15 min. no matter what right now.
explanation: with the t-stat removed there is no restriction on the front outlet to the radiator. that makes the coolant not flow through though the block and exit the rear. it's that path of least resistance thing. so you will end up with really high temps in the rear of the engine, cylinders 3 and especially 4.
if you insist of running no t-stat you should just remove the plug part of it and leave the rest so there is some restriction so you get some flow out that back of the head too.
credit: olderguy schooled me on this.
#60
Elite Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Point Pleasant, NJ
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this may sound like a moronic question but look who i am dealing with:
are the fans flowing in the proper direction? toward engine, not toward radiator.
it's been known to happen. my daily driver 94 was like that when i bought it.
are the fans flowing in the proper direction? toward engine, not toward radiator.
it's been known to happen. my daily driver 94 was like that when i bought it.