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Old 06-25-2009, 11:16 PM   #1
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Default Cracked greddy, now EDT?

I thought mine was special, it had at least 50k on it with no cracks.

It tried to take everything with it when it died. I took off my heat sheild to find a missing manifold-to-turbo bolt. I tried to take off the down pipe, one bolt broke the other took the turbos threads with it. The turbo was really loose on the manifold and I have no idea why. It was tight last week when I changed the oil and it had nord lock washers on it. I'm wondering if the turbo got loose, then cracked the manifold. That would explain the broken down pipe bolts I guess.

I'm looking to replace this manifold with the ETD one. I tried to search around for some feedback about it, but just a bunch of build threads came up. The ETD looks really nice. Anyone using it that can give me some feedback?

I sware one more thing like this and I'm going to sell it. I would love to have something with A/C.

Busted bolt. The top hole lost all the threads.

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The crack on the top.

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The crack down the left center in the rust stripe.

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Old 06-25-2009, 11:27 PM   #2
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Did the mani have any heat stress relief 'cuts' in it etc ?
The standard Greddy mani needs to have cuts in it or it will crack - it has a proven record.
The top bolt has also been known for sheering off or de-threading if it is not an 'upgraded' bolt - the ones in the standard kit are crap.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:45 PM   #3
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Make sure you do relief cuts and upgrade to grade 8 nuts and bolts next time.
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:10 AM   #4
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I chose not to do the relief cuts, and I don't think they caused the cracks. All bolts were grade 8 already.
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:21 AM   #5
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Given the color of the inside...isn't that a sign of running overly hot/lean?
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:38 AM   #6
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That's funny, it looks cracked for sure but there are no signs of an exhaust leak.

Did you clean off the manifold?

It looks like the crack hasn't gone all the way through.
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:59 AM   #7
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Go over the cracks with a wire wheel in a drill and take it to a welder, those cracks are not that bad.
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:14 PM   #8
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I agree, those cracks arent bad enough to trash that mani. Get this one fixed. Were you using a gasket? The top downpipe on mine did the same thing, I use a nut on the back to help stop this.

Relief cuts should be considered again, this has been proven to extend the life.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:17 AM   #9
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I called 4 shops and only one would weld it. He said he would do it properly. Drill stop holes, heat it up, weld it, cool it overnight. Price was $75 for the flange crack, and $125 for the crack between the runners. Then it would be $40 to plane the two flanges flat. So $240 for a manifold that is most likely going to just crack again.

I ordered the ETD manifold today. I'm going to look into adding a 2nd flex section in my downpipe, new exhaust hangers, and maybe a turbo brace. I'm still fairly sure the turbo coming loose is what caused the flange crack.

The turbo being hot/lean looking is from it being loose. It was blackish grey before, and I haven't changed a thing with the tune.

Hopefully the ETD is better. I guess the Greddy will be up for sale since it appears fixable.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:34 AM   #10
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ETD manifold came in today. I'm worried the center nut may not fit due to hitting the runner. I havent had a chance to check yet. Also one of the manifold to turbo bolts threads are open to the #4 runner. I'm hoping it doesn't leak there.

With the turbo I managed to cut the broken stud in half and twist it out from the back. In the stripped hole I installed a helicoil. If it doesn't hold I'm going to grind the turbo housing flat on the back and drill out the threads so I can run a bolt through it with a nut on the back.

Heres to hoping it holds together.
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And since mt.net is so cat friendly . I had to take 4 pictures because she wouldn't stay out of them.
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:52 PM   #11
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You should consider drilling a hole under the #4 runner for future EGT. I think most call for a 1/8 NPT.

Chris
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeed1point6 View Post
ETD manifold came in today. I'm worried the center nut may not fit due to hitting the runner. I havent had a chance to check yet. Also one of the manifold to turbo bolts threads are open to the #4 runner. I'm hoping it doesn't leak there.

needs more studs:
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:06 PM   #13
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When I used studs before it would keep coming loose. Usually the studs would back out. With the bolts it stayed tight for at least a year.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
Given the color of the inside...isn't that a sign of running overly hot/lean?
Hmm...i can eat off the inside of my manifold/turbine. I cruise at ~16.5-17.0:1 and get ~33mpg on spirited club runs thru the mountains.

I'm not saying it's a good or bad thing (I don't know), but it works for me.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:49 PM   #15
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I have that manifold and it seems to work pretty well. My Greddy broke because my roommate didn't let the car cool down after some spirited driving and just turned it off. Might as well have poured water on it. It had like 80k miles on it, though.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:31 PM   #16
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Well it's in. I had to cut down the center stud because it hit the #3 runner before it hit the head. Not a huge deal, just caused some interesting steps on install. I started it up and the damn turbo leaks. I need to have it milled flat. Is that something any machine shop can do, or does it require special tools?

I guess I have change my sig now. The only thing Greddy under the hood now is the Turbo and BOV. Guess its no longer a Greddy kit.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:57 PM   #17
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I finally found the main leak. It was the brand new head to manifold gasket. I don't know how, but it crimped in on itself. It had 2 very sharp creases on the 2nd port. I was very careful when putting it on so I'm not sure what happened. How it crimped but kept the studs in the holes makes me think the metal wasn't cut right. Put another new one in and all is fine.

I've been driving it for a week now and figured I would post up how it has been. First thing, the center nut will be a BITCH to get off. The way the #3 runner comes inward getting the nut on isn't very hard, but when getting it off the wrench head hits the runner and stops. I bought a chinese wrench to grind down so I could loosen it. Also you have to cut down the center stud, it will hit the runner before it's tight.

The alignment compared to the Greddy manifold is great. My downpipe fit with only 1 hole needing a slight grind. The downpipe is a turbotony, so two custom pieces from two vendors fitting is pretty good. No headaches there.

My only huge problem with this manifold is the 2 bolt holes that are open to the runners. Mine leak right now. I put copper RTV on the bolts but it didn't seal. I'm going to try copper washers and more RTV, if that doesn't work I dunno.

My favorite part of the manifold is how much faster the car is. I had no idea the Greddy manifold was so shitty. I have no hard numbers yet, but I can tell boost comes on a lot sooner and pulls harder the whole way. The biggest difference is below 3k rpm. There really isn't much lag anymore.

Overall I'm really happy with the manifold. Other than the leaky bolts it's great.
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