ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Looking for a complete oil cooler setup for an nb.
Figured I'd see if anyone's sitting on some parts before looking for a new one.

Thanks!

Either doing this so I can drive the car around for fun or likely just selling everything... Really should have just installed my setup instead of selling it!

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Have you been drinking, Doc? Read your last paragraph and see if it makes sense to you when sober.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Polar opposites right?

I wrote up a parts list for everything yesterday to sell the car whole. Already offered it to a few friends 'on the low'. With everything going on I haven't had much time to do anything, but have a minute to take a breath. If I can get the cooling figured out so I can drive with AC up to a reasonable temp (say like 80-85 deg) i'll see if I can keep the car... otherwise i was thinking of just selling everything together. The car is running well and would be totally fine if someone wanted to racecar it and pull the AC. I'd just rather street drive it.

Then there's the issue of getting it registered in PA since I still have MA license/plates on it one year into living here. I may need a new daily as well so there's that...

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Oil cooler is likely not going to fix an overheating issue while simply driving around with A/C on.
I figure you’ve already done the normal stuff?
Reroute
Adequate radiator
Proper Ducting that allows some cold air to said radiator

Those things fixed my CLT temps while cruising with A/C on.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Crossflow radiator, reroute, lrb undertray, and hood vents. Temps are mostly fine till ac is turned on at which point they all jump up. CLT and oil both start trending up way too far for my liking.

L337TurboZ

iTrader: (1)

What type of fans are you running? Why sell a car cause it keeps overheating when you could figure it out and enjoy it?

ATX.

An oil cooler can absolutely help. I have a setrab 25 row cooler Im not using. I didnt want to find a place to fit it because it is massive. I went with a smaller cooler from siliconeintakes. Unused still in box. LMK if interested.

What temp values are concerning you?

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Because I'm a resident and things have been a little busy in NJ lately!

Spal fans with shroud I'm pretty sure. It's the fm kit.

That's likely going to be too big for me as well

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I don't like the FM shroud kit personally. I personally feel like it blocks more airflow at speed then it allows through.

I do think you have other issues. SixShooter is running 300+whp with AC in FL. There are zero reasons why you living in north east should not be able to get this stuff working.

I moved your thread and renamed it correctly. Lets fix your issues. I heard from some knowledgeable people on the internet that Covid-19 can't keep up with you if you go above 7psi. So to stay safe you need to be boosting!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I sold you a perfectly good oil cooler that was fine at 262whp on track with A/C.

And I will second the point that there's no way it should be overheating on the street unless Ken Block is driving it. So give more details and pictures so we can help you figure it out.

What crossflow radiator? Pictures through the bumper mouth, straight in and also looking upward. Pictures from below at the bumper/undertray. Pictures from above the radiator. Pictures from behind the radiator taken from both sides of the car.

Is the gap between the undertray and radiator sealed with something? What about the insides of mouth on the left and right? You know the bumper cover is loose in there over the bumper support, right? Plenty of spaces above and below the bumper support for the air to go sideways to the wheel wells once it comes through the mouth. Discarded upholstery foam pieces are free at upholstery shops.

Help us help you.

joe morreale

I had heat issues at 200 whp, until I sealed the mouth and heat exchangers. Car will now run very much over legal limits, for extended periods, in between 200 & 210 degrees. That's with plenty of boosted squirts. I have a 53mm mishimoto radiator with the flying Miata fan kit. Closing the gaps on the sides of the radiator caused it to run cooler the faster I go. At triple digits temps will drop to under 200. It's hot as hell here in Florida and I use the AC all the time.

cpierr03

+1 what others have stated. FM fan shroud and the LRB undertray is a good start, but you're still allowing a ton of air around the heat exchangers. Needs moar ducting.

msmola2002

@six, that perfectly good oil cooler you sold him won't help as it is currently installed in my shitbox :-)

Spiked Performance

Seems like everyone pretty much agrees how to handle this with proper ducting/air flow. If you're willing to cut the hood, the vents will help pull even more air through your heat exchangers.

der_vierte

sorry, posted BS

LeoNA

The oil temp will not have a substantial effect on the coolant temp. Oil has a poor heat transfer rate and is only responsiable for 10-15% of the cooling of the engine. I would do as others have mentioned already. Sealing the radiator to the front opening, hood vents, larger more efficient radiator. Fan shrouds are only beneficial at lower speeds. I'm in the process of redoing my cooling system. I will post the details when I have it put together and have a chance to evaluate it.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

deltree

OptionXIII

You can vastly improve the airflow into the radiator with shipping foam and folded plastic. I have about $6 invested in my radiator sealing, and while I still have room to improve it is a solid start. The most effective parts are made out of stuff I pulled out of the trash bin.

https://www.miataturbo.net/aerodynam...s-pics-103386/

That said, if you're overheating at stock power with the AC on, there's something wrong with your car and you should make sure the basics are taken care of - clean coolant/engine/radiator, good water pump, and a thermostat that works. Modding to cover up a system that isn't in good nick is a bad idea.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Dammit Lars!
😂😂😂

And six, sorry but as Smola said I ended up panicking before i moved here and sold all that stuff to him.

Re ducting : I had started putting some foam (ie hvac ducting adhesive I had sitting around) in places under the hood to stop the air going around the rad. Need to do better.

Re stock power
What's that ?

Why do I need to cut the hood moar if I already have hood vents 😁😁😁

L337TurboZ

iTrader: (1)

Have you done a block test yet? You say it's overheating but are you sure it isnt air in the system or a faulty temp sensor?

What are some of the symptoms of your overheating? At idle, cruising low speeds, highway speeds, with certain loads on, etc? I can post a GM symptom sheet for you to fill out if you'd like