Ducting and airflow
07-20-2009, 07:40 PM
#43
I have a v-mount that I am finishing up right now. I was planning on waiting until I had some road testing in place so I could have some data to back up the design. But, if y'all want to see it I'll post up the picts beforehand.
It is a top-mount v-mount using the stock NB nose. Minimal cutting required for the body, and the framework was easy to fab as well. It is all boxed in (splitter and undertray) so all of the flow coming in the nose is forced through the radiator and IC (and a/c condenser).
It is a top-mount v-mount using the stock NB nose. Minimal cutting required for the body, and the framework was easy to fab as well. It is all boxed in (splitter and undertray) so all of the flow coming in the nose is forced through the radiator and IC (and a/c condenser).
Reply
0
0
Threadjack over.
07-20-2009, 08:42 PM
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Alamo City, Tejas
Posts: 771
Total Cats: 1
If you have access to a welder, weld bosses on tabs onto the side panels, after you have tapped them. Then bolt the lower plates into place with a rubber gasket between the pieces.
- L
Reply
0
0
07-21-2009, 12:53 AM
#47
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,201
Total Cats: 1,138
Sav, I bought some extreme weather ducting tape at home depot today, might wanna look into it. I'm using it to tape some insulation to the tranny tunnel to control heat, but you might wanna think about sealing all your ducting with it. Not only will it hold up to the heat, but it'll blend in and really create an air tightish seal. Freaking stuff was $20 a roll though, good to 260*
Reply
0
0
07-21-2009, 01:54 AM
#48
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,100
I will look into the tape, and I like the welded boss idea. I think I can just cut the metal with the boss attached and then bend it to avoid the welding, as well. The plan is to use rivets to assemble it all.
Reply
0
0
07-21-2009, 06:15 PM
#50
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Savington's set-up is fine. "We're" running a similar set-up on Matt's car and with the "splitter panel" between the FMIC and radiator at 1" enough air goes to the radiator that it never went above 200* at WS in 101* heat...and that car makes well into 400whp.
Reply
0
0
07-21-2009, 08:22 PM
#52
Direct link to tape since it's on the 2nd page of that thread. I'll be picking up a roll tonight!
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t36161-2/#post433042
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t36161-2/#post433042
Reply
0
0
07-21-2009, 08:53 PM
#54
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,100
Ah, that stuff. I had a roll for a long time, just finished it off. It's great for covering holes in the firewall, stuff like that. I always just called it metal tape 
Reply
0
0
07-25-2009, 12:55 AM
#56
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,201
Total Cats: 1,138
I'm considering cutting a hole in my bumper between the blinkers to feed by oil cooler, so I am currently reading through https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t14760-2/ thread. I'm slightly discouraged by people saying "it won't work" but from what I can tell, they're saying it won't improve cooling for the radiator and intercooler proportionally to the size of the hole in the bumper. The one thing it will do for me it give air to my oil cooler, which currently has none. Anyways, I just thought I'd share one of Sav's old quotes, I find it funny considering the work he's now documenting in this thread.
Originally Posted by Savington
I think you're overblowing the cooling thing, as usual. Dual low-pro Spals, stock ducting, a reroute and an FM hood will give you all the cooling you'll ever need.
Reply
0
0
