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Old 06-30-2008, 06:40 PM   #21
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It's already boosted. I like it, It could use more but then I don't have it cranked up to it's potential.
Cooling is already good, have a godspeed already and putting in slim fans next week.

Motor is currently fine, I just want to build a new one in my spare time. Since I will have it out anyway for a repaint, why put an old one back in?
---------------
"I wouldn't spend much on a 1.6 rebuild though, I'd rather source a 1.8 block, build it and strap a 99/00 head to it...300rrwhp."

What would this entail?
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:45 PM   #22
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Taking the time to balance the bit's n pieces will help as well. If your'e willing to go a little farther, knife-edge the crank and then have the crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced as a single unit.
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:59 PM   #23
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I argee that balancing is a great thing to do, I did it with my motor, but in the grand scheme and at his budget knife edging should be on the bottom of his list.
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Old 06-30-2008, 10:02 PM   #24
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I will play Devils Advocate here and remind you of the expected timeline of the 6" dif above 200whp. I think I'm sitting at a comfortable 210-215whp now and it's hanging in there... but I think 250whp would be asking to get stranded somewhere inconvenient. I'm just saying that getting yourself a AAA membership might be a wise investment. Either that or get some 165series tires.


My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.

Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0

Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.

Turn up boost as required for 250whp.

Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).

Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.
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Old 06-30-2008, 10:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post

My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.

Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0

Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.

Turn up boost as required for 250whp.


probably not a half bad idea....
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:41 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_LB View Post
When I get around to building my motor I will be using these.

http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...powerrods.html
[/url]




These big trouble lead to an engine broken!
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:51 AM   #27
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I have a buddy with a turbo 2.0vw that had the bottom end balanced. It idled and spun up like an l6 motor after that. Definitely worth the money.
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Old 07-01-2008, 03:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
I will play Devils Advocate here and remind you of the expected timeline of the 6" dif above 200whp. I think I'm sitting at a comfortable 210-215whp now and it's hanging in there... but I think 250whp would be asking to get stranded somewhere inconvenient. I'm just saying that getting yourself a AAA membership might be a wise investment. Either that or get some 165series tires.


My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.

Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0

Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.

Turn up boost as required for 250whp.

Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).

Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.


I've been babying the rear end untilI find something suitably local. I've never even chirped the tires once in this thing. I like replacing **** with better ****, not replacing **** because it's broken.
1.8 swap is not a bad idea really. Ideally I only want to pull the motor once in the next 100k, I don't get alot of free time. I'm going to go do some searching about. The only thing about swapping is I start thinking about how a v8 would fit rather nicely in that hole.
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Old 07-01-2008, 05:09 PM   #29
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If building a 1.6 what is the main difference between the long nose and the short nose crank?? I can't seem to find anything about it except that the longnose is better. I have a spare 1.6 laying around I wanted to start building but not sure if its a short nose. Even if it is short nose then is it worth building it? Can it be made better or comparable to the long nose?

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought this would be related to the OP.
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