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Old 07-21-2010, 11:38 AM   #21
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:39 AM   #22
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Is this what you all see?


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Old 07-21-2010, 11:58 AM   #23
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i think its timing but im no expert on timing belt changes so i cant be sure
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:10 PM   #24
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isn't supposed to be 19 teeth?
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:13 PM   #25
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yup
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:51 PM   #26
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I agree, there are definitely not enough timing belt teeth between the marks.
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:27 PM   #27
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Fixed the timing. Problem is still there. Going to change out the intake mani gasket
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:57 PM   #28
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Take a picture of the cam gears again so that we can also see the position of the front two lobes on each cam with the gears and belt in the right position.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:02 PM   #29
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Does the Hydra require a crank angle sensor and did you put one on the 94 block?
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:05 PM   #30
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Does the 99 intake manifold have the vacuum tube that is capped on the rear of the manifold? I know we had similar problems on a friends NA when we forgot to put the cap back on after working on his car.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:06 AM   #31
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There is one underneath as well, on the #3 or #4 runner.
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:51 AM   #32
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What version Hydra are you running?

When I was trying to set base timing with my hydra I was having a **** of a time. I saw the same high vacuum and bouncy timing mark.

There are multiple trim maps for timing that affect idle. In 2.7 (don't recall if it's this way in 2.6) the hydra even can add or pull timing to try to reach the RPM target.

Of course, the timing affects the vacuum you're pulling and that super bouncy **** you see with the timing light is probably caused by the hydra too.

I had to zero out all my idle and timing related trims and then set the spark map to 10 degrees all around the idle rpm in a big chunk. Only after that did the timing mark (when viewed with the timing light) stop jittering around and sit nice and steady real proper like.

Let me know if this works, and save your map before destroying it.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:36 AM   #33
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Did you pump 10 psi through the intake (removing filter and sealing intake hose) and listen for leaks? Before you pull the intake mani, do that. It'll hiss or whistle where the leak is if there is a leak.
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:27 AM   #34
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whoa lots of responses. thanks guys. i know my tune needs to be worked on mainly because of the 800cc injectors but i also saw something last night that's tipping me now into the intake mani gasket being the issue. While phil was in the car with it idling, i was leaning on the intake mani looking for leaks. when i put the little body weight i have on it to get a better look, the car stalled out. that in itself is making me think that something is definitely leaking. im picking up the gasket later on and putting it on either tonight or tomorrow. If that doesnt do it, then ill be dicking with the tune some more
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:30 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Take a picture of the cam gears again so that we can also see the position of the front two lobes on each cam with the gears and belt in the right position.
Dont have one now but its spot on for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Does the Hydra require a crank angle sensor and did you put one on the 94 block?
No it doesnt and yes there is one thats positioned at the right distance (credit card sized gap)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitlab77 View Post
Does the 99 intake manifold have the vacuum tube that is capped on the rear of the manifold? I know we had similar problems on a friends NA when we forgot to put the cap back on after working on his car.
Its welded shut

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
There is one underneath as well, on the #3 or #4 runner.
I didnt notice one under there on the mani when it was off but ill know for sure in a bit. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
What version Hydra are you running?

When I was trying to set base timing with my hydra I was having a **** of a time. I saw the same high vacuum and bouncy timing mark.

There are multiple trim maps for timing that affect idle. In 2.7 (don't recall if it's this way in 2.6) the hydra even can add or pull timing to try to reach the RPM target.

Of course, the timing affects the vacuum you're pulling and that super bouncy **** you see with the timing light is probably caused by the hydra too.

I had to zero out all my idle and timing related trims and then set the spark map to 10 degrees all around the idle rpm in a big chunk. Only after that did the timing mark (when viewed with the timing light) stop jittering around and sit nice and steady real proper like.

Let me know if this works, and save your map before destroying it.
2.5. If this gasket doesnt work, then ill be trying that

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmowry View Post
Did you pump 10 psi through the intake (removing filter and sealing intake hose) and listen for leaks? Before you pull the intake mani, do that. It'll hiss or whistle where the leak is if there is a leak.
No I didnt. Ill try that though. Thanks
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:53 AM   #36
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You also need to fix that HUGE exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold. You'll never get it tuned right if your O2's aren't reading correctly.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:03 AM   #37
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AFRs effect vacuum.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:20 AM   #38
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I'll second double checking the settings in the hydra unless it displays it is running the correct timing. On a hot summer day my hydra was trying to idle the car on 6 degrees because the air temp trim was all jacked up.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:32 AM   #39
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Timing matched up in the hydra with the crank setting. The exhaust leak isnt as bad now phil. either way i know i need to get it fixed
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:48 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
Timing matched up in the hydra with the crank setting. The exhaust leak isnt as bad now phil. either way i know i need to get it fixed
It's worse now that you broke the stud Jared.
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