I'm planning on running as little boost as possible for 240whp. I will track the car monthly. Would you guys be comfortable running on the track at say 10psi with a stock bottom end?

Reliability is my #1 concern at this point. I can't imagine putting down more than 240whp, because I don't want to worry about the drivetrain.


Thanks. I might get in on the bellfab, if its worth it.

I'm also thinking about stuffing a 6-speed in there, and seeing how much power the disco potato will make.


any thoughts?

 

on 10 psi I'd stay stock...but, given what everyone says, you get greed....so maybe it is worth a shot to go ahead do do the bottom end...while your at it, do a 99/00 head...

230 hp is prolly going to be able to make a lot more than that...lol.

 

Is the 99 head really that much better? Its much easier to come up with an NA 1.8 motor than the 99. I think it depends more on what kinda shape the motor is in when I get it.

 

So what is? You want to be conservative or see how much power you can put down?

Are we going to have 6 months worth of: "Should I go 6spd or 5spd?" "Build the bottom end or no?" "Paper or plastic?"

Are you like this in real life?

 

Holy Christ, let the man make a decision.

If you dont want to help him shut the **** up and move on. The only person who should/can bitch is phillip for all the bandwidth and space hustlers threads take up.

 

I'll attempt to be more feeling and sensitive in the future.

 

240rwhp is going to eat rings after like 30, 40,000 miles. Once that happens, you should consider doing rods and pistons. 240 on a stock motor is easy.

 

I could care less about that. THe jokes been made, we get it.. EVERYONE GETs IT......... got something new? Im all ears

 

Nope. I'm a one trick pony.

 

I wanted to be soft on power because of the 5-speed.

I'm an analyst...this is what I do.


This is something I've never understood. Why will rings die wtih cast pistons, but not with forged pistons?

 

Then you have my condolences. Always knew those Canadians were useless.


And hustler its driving technique, and transmission condition. If i were you I would set my power goals, and keep an eye out for a six speed, when a good deal comes take it. They aren't as rare as that used to be. The tranny shouldn't be hold you back from anything.

 

It's not the difference of the pistons themselves he might speak of the difference in materials from stock rings to the moly rings that forged pistons usually come with.

 

if your car is a 94-97 1.8, dont bother building the bottom end. those things can take 250rwhp all day long.

 

am I correct in stating that the 99/00 head IS much better from factory guys? I thought I was...b/c then you can port and polish, do whatever the **** you want to it and it makes TONS more power.

 

yes, 99 head flows much better....

 

Pretty much most people have figured out:

99 head flows more .... but you need a 99 intake manifold to fit to it, or a custom manifold for 99 application. You will also need something to control the VCIS butterflies in the intake....

94-95 valve springs are stronger
99 heads have solid lifters. No more clatter... but requires adjustment.

Any 1.8 exhust manifold will fit. However, if using header (I know not required with turbo....) but the placement at the end of the cat will be different.

Dave,

 

Add your boost, get it dynoed, run it until the engine blows up and then build what you want. If you're not drag racing, the 5 speed should stand up to 250rwhp. It's all about how hard you shift and leave from a dead stop.

BTW, building a new engine is going to send you down that slippery slope. Been there done that several times. Run whatcha got now and save up in the interim.

 

What slippery slope? I have a buddy at reher-morrison to do the build.

 

are you kidding? I badly wanted those $290 rods. But there are so many "might-as-wells" that you should get into once the motor was apart, I was looking at $1000+ plus a ton of labor, and the motor runs great as it is now. Seemed silly to me.

I concur with Rick. Run it until you break it, then pay for build, or just swap motors.

 

he means that is the end of being cheap with the car. from then on you will want to spend good $ on it. I do not believe he is as familiar with your goals and research as the rest of us though if you must go 1.8 get a 99 head to flow better. personally i would keep the 1.6 and rebuild it over the winter when ever but this is just my taste GL man. FWIW with balance blueprint etc wiescos and stock rods my build ran about 2K with seals and ARP head studs bearings included.