NB heater cores are aluminum you need the whole mode housing to fit it though. As a side benefit the NB heater core is 1 lb lighter than the NA copper brass unit. But I can weld AN bungs on it.

The Valve I have is an oil thermostat. It shuts down the flow to a trickle at 190f the way I have it plumbed so it sends all the flow to the more efficient radiator. I am convinced It improves peak heat rejection capability for the cooling system.

Bob

 

Good stuff man!

 

badass

 

What size are they? -10 or -12?

 

-10 or 5/8' pushlock. I cut one of the barb rings off each of the push lock fittings to make them shorter and fit better. the hose is rated at 300 pisi with 3 sealing barb rings per fitting I figure it should be fine with ~20psi to only have two rings on the barbs.

Bob

 

I've been talking about doing this for a while..."talking" of course rather than "doing."

 

Why did you decide to go with bulkhead fittings instead of just a grommet in the firewall and extend the hose all the way? Seems like it would fit a little better without the extra fittings.

 

Most likely something to do with engine removal and install ease. That's my guess. Provided a handy mount for the thermostat too.

 

Ah good point... didn't really consider that aspect.

 

For ease of working on the car. Engine removal etcetera. It seems when you drive a 350 hp car on the track quite a bit you tend to work on it a lot.

Bob

 

Very nice! Any idea how well the heat continues with the flow at just a trickle? if its enough heat I may be looking into doing this as well.

 

Very nice sir...something to keep in the mental files for the future...
(G)

 

I absolutly love you right now!!!! I wanted to hook heat back up in my car but being where the lines come out I had no room with this solution the problem is solved I can now go back to owning a legitament street car with heat. YYYEEEAAAA!!!! I never though to do something like this but I will be shortly for sure.

 

Your heater core coolant lines look better than my turbo oil lines.

 

When it is cold out the heater works like normal as the car comes up to temp. About the time the cabin gets warm as well as the engine the heater doesn’t put out full heat quite as hot but it doesn’t have to maintain comfortable cabin temperature at that point.

Running the car full blast on the track on a 100 degree day the heater won't blow very hot air at all.

Bob

 

I posted about this back in like 2003 Shaikh implemented it with my oil t-stat and posted the results.

The oil t-stat should be in the heater outlet. This way, if you turn the heater on to cool the engine, the cooled coolant coming out of the heater will open the t-stat. Win.

 

Coolant flows through the heater constantly It rejects heat constantly and when you turn the blower on it rejects a little more but I am fairly certain it doesn’t reject as much as if all the coolant flow was going to the big radiator in the front and not bypassing it.

I wanted the thermostat on the hot side of the heater core so it would shut off the flow better. The thermostat also doesn’t shut off the flow entirely. It’s got about the equivalent of a 1/4" hole bypass when it is shut.

And I will admit I got the Idea from your post way back.

Bob

 

If it's on the outlet of the heater, with the heater off the coolant will be the same temperature as what's exiting the head, so the shutoff will be the same. But then when you turn the heater on, it then allows more flow as the heater cools its outlet's coolant. This allows the heater to work as an aux radiator, and also for heating the cabin.

 

I think the problem is I would need a cooler thermostat to get the flow to shut down. even with the blower off the temperature drop across the heater core is quite a bit.

I did have it the other way before but thought the heater should shut down more.

Bob

 

Are oil t-stats available in like, 160*F?