hell freezes over: hustler's progress thread - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-21-2008, 05:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by LOLA - 92 View Post
At least the Dip Stick is in one piece!
A rarity!
Clean that stinkin engine bay up before you install that pretty new motor
power washer, and silver paint for the subframe and ****. I want to see the leaks.
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Old 07-21-2008, 05:54 PM   #22
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+1...so any real eta on this now?
lol
I have a track day on 9/20. I'm coming home for either a week in august or coming home for a month in september.

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btw, is that a clear hose for the slave line?
SS line. lol
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Old 07-21-2008, 05:58 PM   #23
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I have a track day on 9/20. I'm coming home for either a week in august or coming home for a month in september.
Yes, but will you have it tuned by then?
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:00 PM   #24
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Yes, but will you have it tuned by then?
I can get it road tuned in a few hours, and hopefully electronic boost control will work. Once I get it running, I just have to get it on a dyno and I have 2 places in mind...then I can probably franticly call BEGi and drive down there for tuning.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:29 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
the heater lead is in the wrong place, which is the same problem I have with the begi reroute.
Yes, the CAS, the pic is just to illustrate the basic idea, that's why I would test fittment before cutting and welding anything...You can place the feed anywhere really and make it as long as you want to.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:35 PM   #26
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Yes, the CAS, the pic is just to illustrate the basic idea, that's why I would test fittment before cutting and welding anything...You can place the feed anywhere really and make it as long as you want to.
you need to make the lead for the heater core on the engine side of the thermostat, or it will never be hot. No one seems to understand this concept.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
you need to make the lead for the heater core on the engine side of the thermostat, or it will never be hot.
That, and you'll also have virtually no circulation of coolant through the engine when the thermostat is closed.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:47 PM   #28
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A 1/8th hole should take care of that, no?
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:47 PM   #29
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That, and you'll also have virtually no circulation of coolant through the engine when the thermostat is closed.
hency my problem with the begi reroute.
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:31 PM   #30
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Congrats Man!
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:02 PM   #31
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I'm trying to think positive about this deal, but I'm still ******* terrified of the impending reliability disaster.
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Old 07-22-2008, 02:31 AM   #32
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Looks good. Am i mistaken or did one of the pictures show the 1.8 in?
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:56 AM   #33
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Looks good. Am i mistaken or did one of the pictures show the 1.8 in?
Not yet. I have to do some work to this thing myself.
Its shiney and pretty...so it will go faster:
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:21 AM   #34
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re: coolant route
Since you're running MS you can use the fan thermo switch port/bung as your heater core source. Just overbore and rethread - did the same on my FE. Then just put a port on the reroute pipe that runs from the back of the head the rad. This is similar to what brgTom did with his- drilled a new hole pre tstat and threaded it.
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Old 07-22-2008, 10:30 AM   #35
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I always said "when Hell freezes over, I'll ski there too." Atleast there's some headway now, so when you get back into town, John and I will help ya w/ the trash to get this thing trackin' ASAP.
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:55 PM   #36
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I always said "when Hell freezes over, I'll ski there too." Atleast there's some headway now, so when you get back into town, John and I will help ya w/ the trash to get this thing trackin' ASAP.
I may get pulled down to San Antonio in a couple weeks on a priority assignment. Now I just have to get home, piece the car together, then drive it to BEGi for tuning...if I end up going. I can't seem to get a break on work.
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Old 07-22-2008, 01:06 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
re: coolant route
Since you're running MS you can use the fan thermo switch port/bung as your heater core source. Just overbore and rethread - did the same on my FE. Then just put a port on the reroute pipe that runs from the back of the head the rad. This is similar to what brgTom did with his- drilled a new hole pre tstat and threaded it.
any tips on getting a freeze plug out? I might just get a barb fitting and make a plate to house both the sensor and the heater core bung.
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Old 07-22-2008, 03:09 PM   #38
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any tips on getting a freeze plug out?
use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock it sideways in the hole, then you can yank it out with plyers.
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:18 PM   #39
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Not yet. I have to do some work to this thing myself.
Its shiney and pretty...so it will go faster:
that looks NICE
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:55 PM   #40
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With all Hustler's reliability paranoia, it'll look even better with a rod sticking out the side of the block.

Get r done man. You are going to love this boost thing everyone's talking about! Have my 1st boosted track days coming up next week and the week after. Let you know how it goes.
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