Help! Crank but no start (sorta)
08-04-2018, 04:42 PM
#21
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Slide a long slender object in the #1 hole and rock the crank back and forth a bit to confirm you're actually at TDC.
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08-05-2018, 02:21 AM
#24
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turns out it was the timing! Adjusted the timing and she fired right up! Idled for 10 seconds and then had to shut it down because of the squealy belt, and I don't want to **** off my neighbors at 11:00pm.
Thanks to all who contributed. I'll be back tomorrow with an update after I drive her.
Thanks to all who contributed. I'll be back tomorrow with an update after I drive her.
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08-05-2018, 08:38 AM
#25
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You adjusted the ignition timing, or the cam timing? If it was the ignition timing, you had the MS set to fixed timing correct? (if not, do NOT take that car out on the road)
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08-05-2018, 12:28 PM
#26
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I adjusted the cam timing. It had jumped teeth.I'm pretty sure it needs a new belt tensioner. Going to put a new belt and tensioner on it, then should be good to go ultimately.
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08-05-2018, 05:49 PM
#28
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ok let me rephrase- it’s not properly tensioned, and so to make sure it’s tensioned properly I need to follow the proper tensioning procedure, so I might as well replace the belt and tensioner while I’m in there and start fresh. I’m not sure when it was done last anyway.
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08-05-2018, 06:53 PM
#29
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The spring provides the tension. You loosen the bolt that locks the tensioner, rotate the engine the the number of times called out in the FSM procedure, then you lock down the tensioner bolt.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely.
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08-05-2018, 07:16 PM
#30
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The spring provides the tension. You loosen the bolt that locks the tensioner, rotate the engine the the number of times called out in the FSM procedure, then you lock down the tensioner bolt.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely.
There isn't really a way for the tensioner to fail and allow the belt to slip other than that bolt coming loose or the bearing on the tensioner pulley failing completely.
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08-05-2018, 07:30 PM
#31
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i tried loosening the bolt last night with an open ended wrench and it kept slipping around the bolt head. Definitely a 14mm, but the angle and tightness of the bolt made it not want to give. I’ll at least get the second section of the cover off so I can get to the bolt on the tensioner with a socket, and see how we’re looking. The timing belt was noticeably slack, and because I couldn’t get that bolt off there was no fixing it. I’ll try later and get it to where I can get a socket on it. Should be fine.
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08-07-2018, 04:12 PM
#32
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Well, got the belt and tensioner on, car fired up. Only to find out for sure it has rod knock. I was pretty confident before, 100% sure now it's got bottom end issues. So motor is coming out now, and I'll be putting another in. Just looking into options right now. Considering this: https://www.jdmwestcoast.com/mazda/j...g-headers.html I would sell off parts I don't need like trans, ecu, headers, and my blown motor, which would get me to probably $600-800 in it for 50-60k mi motor. There's no local motors at any of the junkyards or CL. Every other option i think of, the price climbs quickly (like having my motor rebuilt).I've got a couple of quote requests in with some of the site sponsors, but trying to keep it budget minded and get it running. Open to any helpful suggestions! Not looking to build the motor myself, but don't mind pulling or installing one.
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08-08-2018, 06:22 PM
#34
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Well, got the belt and tensioner on, car fired up. Only to find out for sure it has rod knock. I was pretty confident before, 100% sure now it's got bottom end issues. So motor is coming out now, and I'll be putting another in. Just looking into options right now. Considering this: https://www.jdmwestcoast.com/mazda/j...g-headers.html I would sell off parts I don't need like trans, ecu, headers, and my blown motor, which would get me to probably $600-800 in it for 50-60k mi motor. There's no local motors at any of the junkyards or CL. Every other option i think of, the price climbs quickly (like having my motor rebuilt).I've got a couple of quote requests in with some of the site sponsors, but trying to keep it budget minded and get it running. Open to any helpful suggestions! Not looking to build the motor myself, but don't mind pulling or installing one.
. I believe the previous owner gave you my cell but if not, I can PM you if you like. Let me know and I'm glad you now know what the issue is. Thanks
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08-08-2018, 11:24 PM
#36
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Hey... I'm definitely interested in many parts off your car and I'm local. I was looking a buy it before you which is good because I dont need another project . I believe the previous owner gave you my cell but if not, I can PM you if you like. Let me know and I'm glad you now know what the issue is. Thanks
. I believe the previous owner gave you my cell but if not, I can PM you if you like. Let me know and I'm glad you now know what the issue is. Thanks
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08-10-2018, 02:20 PM
#37
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Here's a video of the motor after the timing belt was changed and properly tensioned. Is there any chance at all that I got the timing off a little and that's the problem? I noticed a bit of hesitation when blipping the throttle which made me think timing, but I'm wondering if that's a bad bearing or a tune issue? Sort of a last ditch effort of a question before I just yank the motor.
It's also spewing a trail of black nasty. Not smoke, just soot which I'm assuming is a nice oil/carbon mixture build up. I haven't driven the car, I just noticed it on my garage door
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08-10-2018, 03:00 PM
#39
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Same. I'll probably pull the motor, check the bottom end first, and then decide if it's rebuild time or simply drop a jdm 99-2000 in and swap the oil pan and head (or maybe just intake cam). Trying to keep the cost around 1k if possible.
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