Help, ISC Racing Air Dam install - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 02-12-2009, 06:40 PM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default Help, ISC Racing Air Dam install

I got it and it looked nicer than I expected. I also didn't expect it to be so stiff, which is kind of cool.

Need advice for installing the thing, especially mounting and fastener advice. I don't want to try something stupid and end up with a mangled front end or a cracked airdam with ragged holes in it.

I used duct tape to do a rough initial mounting and it doesn't seem to match the contour of the front very well. This is odd as the installed pics show that it seamlessly blends with the front clip. I assume this doesn't detract from the functionality, but is there a way to make it not look like ***?

My choices are seemingly:
-deform the front clip so it matches the air dam
-deform or trim the air dam so it matches the front clip (seems very unwise)
-paint over it and hope no one notices the gaps
-adhesives
-rivets
-bondo
-something I didn't list
-some combination of the above

Advices?

Pics related, it's a car in need of painting:



JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 06:57 PM   #2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

Also, any advice for where to go for paint? Maaco?
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 07:02 PM   #3
Antisaint
iTrader: (17)
 
Vashthestampede's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 4,659
Total Cats: 54
Default

Does any of the ISC lip contour away from the bumper? As in if you took off the duct tape on the sides, would it pop away from the bumper?

If I was going to DIY it, I would take the bumper off the car, sand everything, and get to fiber glassing that bitch right to the bumper.

Vash-
Vashthestampede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 07:07 PM   #4
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: South East Florida
Posts: 690
Total Cats: 6
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimAtFSU View Post
Also, any advice for where to go for paint? Maaco?
Drive down to Ft. Lauderdale and beg Jared to do it.
94mx5red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 07:11 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 159
Total Cats: 0
Default

two observations.
1) are you sure that you have a genuine mazda bumper cover. I have seen some aftermarket ones that have a slightly different profile.
2) it looks as though it needs to be rotated slightly. the area under the marker light looks like it should be parallel to the botom of the light and the front should be pushed down a bit. I think that would help close up the gap.

so first make sure it is in the right orientation with the car and then use a combination of everything you listed above to make it perfect. welcom to the worl of fiberglass parts.
they all need some fudging to fit right.
dynokiller90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 07:36 PM   #6
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 758
Total Cats: 5
Default

Is it designed to be used with an oem front air dam?
boileralum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 07:45 PM   #7
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
dc2696's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Posts: 1,176
Total Cats: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by boileralum View Post
Is it designed to be used with an oem front air dam?
Yes.
dc2696 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:18 PM   #8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

It wouldn't surprise me if I had a non-oem front. The car was originally salvage title and the color under the paint chips at the front is obviously from another car.
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:20 PM   #9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94mx5red View Post
Drive down to Ft. Lauderdale and beg Jared to do it.
Who is this Jared chap? Is he a talented body and paint guy?

Quote:
If I was going to DIY it, I would take the bumper off the car, sand everything, and get to fiber glassing that bitch right to the bumper.
What is this fiberglassing you use in the verb form? Is there a technique you know of for joining these two parts together? I know nearly jack **** about fiberglass and body work as I considered it the domain of the ricers, at least until recently. Please educate me.

The material for the miata bumper and for this splitter seem to be made of quite different material. The miata bumper is soft and flexy and this thing is pretty hard.
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:21 PM   #10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

Oh also, I got the 3 braces- the two that hold the splitter from behind and the front brace that holds up the front of the lip.
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:26 PM   #11
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,244
Total Cats: 291
Default

Do you still have the small rods that run from the frame rails down to the base of the nose in the fender wells? Those have a lot to do with the part of the nose contour. If they're still there, you can work with (bend) the rods to reform that contour.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:26 PM   #12
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 758
Total Cats: 5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dc2696 View Post
Yes.
I didn't say bumper cover - I am referring to the R package lower front valence/ lip.
boileralum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:35 PM   #13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Do you still have the small rods that run from the frame rails down to the base of the nose in the fender wells? Those have a lot to do with the part of the nose contour. If they're still there, you can work with (bend) the rods to reform that contour.
Yes, and you are a genius. I remember having seen them before but they're not hooked up to anything. I don't know if I have ripped them out or not. I can always make new ones I guess.
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:47 PM   #14
Antisaint
iTrader: (17)
 
Vashthestampede's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 4,659
Total Cats: 54
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimAtFSU View Post
What is this fiberglassing you use in the verb form? Is there a technique you know of for joining these two parts together? I know nearly jack **** about fiberglass and body work as I considered it the domain of the ricers, at least until recently. Please educate me.

The material for the miata bumper and for this splitter seem to be made of quite different material. The miata bumper is soft and flexy and this thing is pretty hard.
I would try and match the two seams as close as possible and clamp them together to hold it while you work. Then I'd start spreading resin and laying the fiberglass to both the front and rear of the bumper. Let it sit, then start on sanding it and smoothing it. I'd probably then leave it to a bodyshop to do the final sanding and paint.

I did fiberglass work on my front and rear bumper to save from bodyshop costs. I googled "how to fiberglass" and used the Evercoat kit to do them.

Sure "ricers" give fiberglass body parts a bad name. I personally don't dislike fiberglass, or carbon fiber for that matter because everyone else does.

I could be completely wrong about this, but thats how I would do it. I wouldn't stand for seams, gaps, or anything fugly. Did you email the company and ask them how they recommend attaching the piece?

Vash-
Vashthestampede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:55 PM   #15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

They don't have any specific recommendations beyond the braces. Obviously someone knew what they were doing because their cars look great with the air dam installed and painted.

Right now the passenger side matches up really closely but the driver's side just doesn't seem to match up right. Clamping the pieces together would probably help. I'm really out of my element here.
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 09:58 PM   #16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

What do you mean by "laying resin to the front and rear"? The resin just spreads on and hardens like glue? You would apply it to the places where the bumpers meet, but where else?
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2009, 10:09 PM   #17
Antisaint
iTrader: (17)
 
Vashthestampede's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 4,659
Total Cats: 54
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimAtFSU View Post
What do you mean by "laying resin to the front and rear"? The resin just spreads on and hardens like glue? You would apply it to the places where the bumpers meet, but where else?
Like when I fiberglassed my cracked front bumper I did both sides for strength. In your case I guess you would only go around the back side of the bumper on the sides. If you google "fiberglass, attaching, lip, bodywork, etc", you'll find hours and hours of reading on the topic.

Some people say its a bad idea to mold the two together, as it will now crack and get fucked. However I have been DD my miata for years now, taken it to job sites off paved roads, etc. I only cracked the front bumper because of my simple stupidity one night. I like looking different than the standard happy miata mouth front end.

Vash-
Vashthestampede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2009, 12:31 AM   #18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

Alrighty, this is slowly coming together.

My handy dandy C-clamps seem to mostly fix the problem of alignment. See pics below.

From the sights and vids I have been looking at, it seems that what I do at this point is:
1) sand the **** out of the stock nose piece. I don't have a dedicated sander, but I do have functioning arms, so I guess we know how this is going to go. Maybe put a sanding wheel on a drill? Dunno.
2) after everything is de-painted, clamp the dam onto the nose and alternate fiber and adhesive over the gap.
3) use body filler and sand after enough layers of glass have been laid and dried
4) put nose back on to car, mount the support pieces
5) get car painted

My biggest worry is step 2 because I realize that these two parts only really mate up properly when they're forced and then clamped in place- whatever I use to join them will have to be strong enough to maintain that same force on the nose/dam.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Please keep sharing the knowledge. I've never done anything like this before and the more tips you guys can give me, the less chance I'll have some sort of catastrophic failure.


JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2009, 12:36 AM   #19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 218
Total Cats: 0
Default

The fiberglass repair kits don't actually contain fibers do they? They're just a sort of putty. Wouldn't this mean they would be completely unsuited for this job, except for patching any rough spots from where I laid fiber?
JimAtFSU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2009, 12:47 AM   #20
Antisaint
iTrader: (17)
 
Vashthestampede's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 4,659
Total Cats: 54
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimAtFSU View Post
The fiberglass repair kits don't actually contain fibers do they? They're just a sort of putty. Wouldn't this mean they would be completely unsuited for this job, except for patching any rough spots from where I laid fiber?
The Evercoat kit I got initially (I had to buy more resin and hardener) came with a fiberglass sheet, resin, and hardener. I cut the sheets, wet them in my mix, lay them out and smoothed them, let sit and repeat.

FIBERGLASS EVERCOAT POLYESTER REPAIR KITS - Repair Kits & Materials by Discount Marine Supplies

In my build thread I have some photos of what I'm talking about, I might have wrote down something about doing it but I'm not sure. I cant say if this is what you should do for certain, but its what I would do if I had to join the two.

Vash-
Vashthestampede is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 59 12-15-2017 09:00 PM
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
Moroso Air Oil Separator Catch Can Aroundcorner Miata parts for sale/trade 2 10-01-2015 04:20 PM
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump $50 lsc224 Miata parts for sale/trade 2 10-01-2015 10:17 AM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:46 AM.