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Old 05-30-2008, 11:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highroller101 View Post
see above

see what? that you still want a bigger radiator as a band-aid solution?
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
I'm making one now...can you elaborate?




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Old 05-30-2008, 12:02 PM   #23
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I find it really hard to believe that all these spec miata people need radiators. They really need ducting. I've done track days at 103* in my 1.6 with an "automatic" radiator, driving just as hard as any spec miata driver, in a congo line of sti's and zees, and the needle never budged.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:18 PM   #24
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Most new spec miata guys buy the koyos for the bling factor.

They throw a bunch of money at the car building it not knowing weither or not the car actually needs the part.




Seriously man, throw on the biggest oil cooler you can fit and you won't have over heating problems anymore. Alot cheaper too.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #25
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Hustler thanks man great pics...
Now gotta see how I can make somethign similiar...
Great shot of ducting too


So, anyone think this might be a combination of tuning (ie timing), and the exhaust restriction??? I'd vote for clearing that up, THEN seeing how she acts...
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenR View Post
Most new spec miata guys buy the koyos for the bling factor.

They throw a bunch of money at the car building it not knowing weither or not the car actually needs the part.




Seriously man, throw on the biggest oil cooler you can fit and you won't have over heating problems anymore. Alot cheaper too.
A buddy of mine did this on his TT. It was overheating like made with a little 8-row, so he got a 36 row and in winning at the game of life now.

I bought a 24-row and got jic fittings from JD's industrial rubber supply in OKC for size 10 awesomeness, for like $40.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:42 PM   #27
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Your radiator is not the problem, a dual core is pretty damn good.
Lower the hood, that is where some of your problems are coming from.
Make sure you do have a sealed mouth.
Run 100% distilled water as mentioned before.
Save your money, you don't need a bigger radiator, you need to bring up your efficiency.
Turn boost back down to 14psi until you sort your heating problems, it is just not worth it.
Post pics of your coolant re-route, there may be something wrong with it.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:49 PM   #28
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I'd like to see video of people actually pouring distilled water into a car.


...or post a link to that episode of seinfeld where Kramer pours his blood in the car.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:52 PM   #29
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waaaaaaait a sec... i'm running like 70distilled/30coolant
I thought this was a GOOD thing...am I missing something?
Mind you I'm in Miami, so no danger of freezing in the winter....
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
waaaaaaait a sec... i'm running like 70distilled/30coolant
I thought this was a GOOD thing...am I missing something?
Mind you I'm in Miami, so no danger of freezing in the winter....
unless its going to freeze outside, I wouldn't run any "anti-freeze." I would only add something to lube the water pump, but that's not really required either. If its a track car, over 80* outside, and you still have anti-freeze in your car, I'd like to sell you some ocean front property previously owned by George Straight.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:58 PM   #31
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ooooo, ok...ur comment worried me bout wanting to see a video of someone pouring distilled water in..
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:05 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
ooooo, ok...ur comment worried me bout wanting to see a video of someone pouring distilled water in..
distilled water is the best option because it has no mineral content...however I've never seen or heard of anyone actually doing it. I might do it to my new motor since I luvs it.
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:07 PM   #33
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ah ok, I'd think in TX you'd be all over it...
Here I find it easily at the local grocery store..
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:08 PM   #34
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oh, I will be doing it with my new motor. and add coolant in winter and then fluch it in the spring.

somehow what i just said reminded me of beerfest, strange!!!
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:13 PM   #35
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At what "winter temps" do you need to add coolant??
In other words, here we dont see anything under 40's, and thats pretty rare...

So what mix you guys think would be safe??
It's not a track car, its a daily, mess around, maybe some times at the track car...
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:15 PM   #36
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100% distilled water. Coolant is wrong, the correct term is anti-freeze, the water is the coolant.
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:17 PM   #37
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gotcha, i might try this with something to keep the WP healty, once the godspeed gets here
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:22 PM   #38
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A small amount of antifreeze or watter wetter or dishwasher detergent helps break the surface tension. Which does help cooling. Antifreeze and watter wetter also as mentioned above keep the system lubricated and conditioned.
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
At what "winter temps" do you need to add coolant??
In other words, here we dont see anything under 40's, and thats pretty rare...

So what mix you guys think would be safe??
It's not a track car, its a daily, mess around, maybe some times at the track car...
you need anti-freeze at 32* and below. If freezing temps were not an issue in my location, I would never have anti-freeze in my car. Just 1-bottle of water wetter
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:26 PM   #40
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I actually have a couple gallons of distilled water, and a bottle of water wetter in my garage waiting for the new rad. I was considering adding a little anti-f just to help the mix some...

But I think I'll try the 100% distilled, and Water wetter and see how it goes...dumb question but any advantage to throwing in 2bottles of water wetter? The WW bottle says 1 bottle for entire system, so i wasnt gonna, but thought i'd throw it out there
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