Zabac

iTrader: (39)

No need, save it for your flush when it's time.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

gotcha, figured

StankCheeze

iTrader: (1)

Yes, always, always use distilled water. One of the biggest reasons people ended up with dexcool sludge (which was a big factor in the lawsuit) was because they used tap water instead of distilled water. Regular coolant doesn't sludge as bad as dexcool but tap water still contributes a LOT to to sludge in any cooling system. When I flush a system I actually take out the thermostat and hook a shop vac up to the lower radiator hose to suck all the tap water and crap out of the block before I add coolant.

And for the guy who says coolant is water... You're wrong. The water is the cooling agent. The proper term for a mix of water and antifreeze (or water wetter, dish soap, eggs, blood, beer, whatever) is coolant.

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

161 whp at a measly 7psi here. i agree with brain.....you've got other issues that need to be cleared up before throwing more cooling parts at it.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

So OP u gonna try to address the exhaust issue, and whatever else is contributing to the heating issue?? Or still gonna plan on trying the diff rad first?
Seems like u could try everything suggested for less than the cost of the new rad.? Not to mention from what it sounds like your rad is already a larger/more efficient rad VS oem...
If I already had my GS (or any other larger than oem) rad in the car and was still overheating, I'd personally leave diff/better/bigger radiator as the very last thign I'd try...if at all...
If ur not considering the other things mentioned by these guys, can I ask why? Just curious

highroller101

I have an oil cooler on order. Im dropping the hood tomorrow, and I will turn down the boost. BUT I dont think its the boost because when I run it on the highway at 6500 rpm with no accelleration it overheats. So to me that has nothing to do with the boost...? Need a new DP and exhaust anyways so that will be on order soon. If I go to work on the car tomor then I will snap some shots

highroller101

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack
this is somewhat embarrasing.....I think some of tyour heating issues could be directly related to your exhaust of choice....you are wasting a hell of a lot of energy trying to push the exhaust out, not push the pistons down.

I am looking for a new exhaust system currently. I am looking at the Begi divorced downpipe but I dont want a 2.5" I want a 3" and im not looking to spend $400 on an exhaust if the car wont cool down.


the only thing this promotes is a cooler engine bay, air will be more likely to flow back into the crack than to extractor from. Effectively, this will increase the pressure behind the radiator. And we all know that high pressure travels to low pressure....so if you equalize the pressure on both sides of the radiator, guess where isn't going to flow through. You need to shroud your radiator. Make it impossible for any airflow entering the mouth to flow around your IC and rad. Seal the top area around the hood latch. Use good fans. Use a almost pure water mixture.

I have run tests and having the hood lifted in the rear has increased the time it takes to overheat. Radiator has cheap DIY shrouding with stock fans. The mouth of the car is completely air tight right through the rad. On the pure water mix... Doesnt coolant increase the BP of water?

see above
__________________

The Bold was my remarks on the "see above". Brain, I am looking for a solution to my heating problems. I dont want to spend a fortune, I have a 2" rad that is dual core. all ducting is done through the front, I am going to try lowering the hood and see if that makes a difference. But the main point that I am looking for is the Solution to my overheating problems. As I said, Oil cooler is on the way, Coolant re-route is finished, 50/50 mixture of DISTILLED (yes I decided to use it this time instead of tap water) water and Dexcool, I used antifreeze because it also increases the Boiling Point of the water.

I would LOVE more suggestions and as I showed above. I AM listening to Everyones advice! And I thank all of you for it!

If a huge radiator will keep me from overheating then I am all for it, but really I just want to be able to enjoy my car at the track and not have to worry about looking at the temp gauge to see if I have started to overheat.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

The only thing I can tell u is that I dont see anyway ur gonna find an exhaust+dp for $400, nevermind less...

You were ready to drop $600 on a rad, cough up a lil extra and you'll open up alot of power and prob eliminate a great deal of your overheating...

highroller101

*CORRECTION*
Rad has a core size of 1.75" and my exhaust and DP are 2.25" OD

Begi divorced is $389 and I dont have a problem buying some 3" pipe and running it back (straight pipe).