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Old 10-26-2009, 01:06 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by miataspeed2005 View Post
That just makes no sense at all. The whole point of the re-route is to cool the hot water coming from the heater core. If you route it to the lower hose you are basacly doing the samething Mazda did in the fist place
not really but ok.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:08 PM   #22
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I was trying to figure out why the car I was tuning last week took so god damn long to get up to temp, then i remembered he installed the begi reroute and put the return on the upper radiator hose. I'm having him splice it back into the lower.
Just to help me sort things out (I don't have my car at home). Is it the upper or lower heater hose that goes to the rear housing in the oe set up?
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeed2005 View Post
That just makes no sense at all. The whole point of the re-route is to cool the hot water coming from the heater core. If you route it to the lower hose you are basacly doing the samething Mazda did in the fist place
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas View Post
Just to help me sort things out (I don't have my car at home). Is it the upper or lower heater hose that goes to the rear housing in the oe set up?

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Old 10-26-2009, 01:13 PM   #25
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thx scot

Last edited by magnamx-5; 10-26-2009 at 01:13 PM. Reason: wrong thread lol
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:16 PM   #26
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I thought the heater core return was hot water and then it mixes with the cold water in the lower rad hose? And the re-route brings the hot water to the top of the rad hose so itgets cooled through the rad? I'm I wrong? Or is he talking about the rear termostat re-route?
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:19 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by miataspeed2005 View Post
I thought the heater core return was hot water and then it mixes with the cold water in the lower rad hose? And the re-route brings the hot water to the top of the rad hose so itgets cooled through the rad? I'm I wrong? Or is he talking about the rear termostat re-route?
I have a m-tuned rear temostat re-route.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeed2005 View Post
I thought the heater core return was hot water and then it mixes with the cold water in the lower rad hose?
yes, this is how street cars work.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:22 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Andreas View Post
I have a m-tuned rear temostat re-route.
Never mind then
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:23 PM   #30
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Thanks Brain!

As far as I can see, the hose goes from the rear house to the upper heater inlet to help flow thru the heater core. I'l test to swap these.

thanks!
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:30 PM   #31
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The only reason I brought up the heater core was because there were a number of folks doing this in the past, and it was part of the BEGi turbo kits. If you didn't touch the heater core return, don't now.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:08 PM   #32
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I have done 3 tests on track

1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.

To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder View Post
I have done 3 tests on track

1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.

To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
noes!!! Someone finally substantiated what I created a year ago. The old ferrari "dual thermostat" thing would be nice on the miata. someone should come up with a high-volume thermostat.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:14 PM   #34
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I have done 2 tests on the track.

both on a 1/2 mile straight.

1. 2" radiator no undertray - Overheated anything over 100mph.
2. 2" radiator w/cooling panel and undertray - normal temps peaking at 130mph.

stock cooling system.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:27 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I have done 2 tests on the track.

both on a 1/2 mile straight.

1. 2" radiator no undertray - Overheated anything over 100mph.
2. 2" radiator w/cooling panel and undertray - normal temps peaking at 130mph.

stock cooling system.
Are we really going to argue this ****? Was it 100* ambient? Were you under the SM lap record?

Its much easier to get air through a radiator at speed on big straights than a bunch on low speed twisty crap. I could make my stock 1.6 overhat on a local 1.3 mile 16-turn course, not on the 1.7 11-turn course.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:37 PM   #36
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It was 98*F ambient IIRC nice warm August day on the second attempt; about 4 seconds slower than SM record IIRC. Just sayin' homey. If we are talking street cars, no reason to move the heater core return. I'm curious to the flow differential between the upper hose once the thermostat opens and the heater core return...
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:41 PM   #37
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If we are talking street cars, no reason to move the heater core return.
words to live by.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:01 AM   #38
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I have the same issue as the OP, I have the 2" Mushimoto rad and the M-tuned reroute. The thermostat and fans all operate correctly and the car will come up to 94C when stuck in traffic, but if you get moving with much speed the coolant temps drop to around 80C.

I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.

I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:49 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by matttheniceguy View Post
I have the same issue as the OP, I have the 2" Mushimoto rad and the M-tuned reroute. The thermostat and fans all operate correctly and the car will come up to 94C when stuck in traffic, but if you get moving with much speed the coolant temps drop to around 80C.

I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.

I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
I guess that will be solution for me as well. After all I hardly use the car in winter. I think I'll pay some more attention on my high IAT when in boost instead.

Thanks!
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