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Old 02-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #1
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Default How did YOU block off...

Dear MT.net,

How did YOU block off your heater return in your coolant mixing manifold? I've been searching for days, the closest I've found is a reference to a 7/8" freeze plug which is not going in correctly.
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #2
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Don't.

What is it that you think you're trying to accomplish?
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:44 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
Don't.

What is it that you think you're trying to accomplish?
Removal of the heater return.
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:50 PM   #4
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That's not an intent. That is a step. What is your intention?

In more general terms: are you removing the coolant path through the heater core? Why do you think this is a good idea?
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
That's not an intent. That is a step. What is your intention?

In more general terms: are you removing the coolant path through the heater core? Why do you think this is a good idea?
I have no heater core anymore (I do have a reroute, with no need to use the heater return anymore with how I did it), and I'd rather block off the return at the mixing manifold than at the pipe. It's just simply cleaning up the engine bay, nothing more, but it's turning into a hell of a headache.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:13 PM   #6
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Ahh, gotcha. You considered tapping it yet and putting a big *** bolt in there? Blocked off my EGR port with something like a 21mm bolt.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:14 PM   #7
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Ahh, gotcha. You considered tapping it yet and putting a big *** bolt in there? Blocked off my EGR port with something like a 21mm bolt.
....Holy crap. I didn't even think of tapping it. Let me check if I have a big enough tap, thanks Fooger.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:56 PM   #8
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Don't use a bolt, hood rat. Buy a stainless grub screw in the correct diameter and epoxy or red loctite it in. The difference in doing it like a hoodlum working on a Monte Carlo and like a professional is pennies and 2 days to get parts from McMaster. There is no excuse.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:01 PM   #9
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Don't use a bolt, hood rat. Buy a stainless grub screw in the correct diameter and epoxy or red loctite it in. The difference in doing it like a hoodlum working on a Monte Carlo and like a professional is pennies and 2 days to get parts from McMaster. There is no excuse.
If I have to wait on shipping, time to start sending parts to Abe.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:08 PM   #10
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Abe welded that bitch for me, we flipped it around, and I won at life. I have a turbo in the way so the stock orientation does not work.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:11 PM   #11
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Weld it. Everything else is a kludge.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:44 PM   #12
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I believe I had a plate welded over it and then drilled and tapped that, and it now has a 1/2"(?) NPT plug in it.

I was originally going to use an -AN line for the heater return there, but I found T-ing into the lower radiator hose was cleaner and cheaper. Hence the plug.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I believe I had a plate welded over it and then drilled and tapped that, and it now has a 1/2"(?) NPT plug in it.

I was originally going to use an -AN line for the heater return there, but I found T-ing into the lower radiator hose was cleaner and cheaper. Hence the plug.
Can it be MIGed Curly, or do I have to TIG it?
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:29 PM   #14
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Can be MIGed with a spool gun since its aluminum. Otherwise TIG.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:45 PM   #15
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Mail's been sent to Abe, :sadface:
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