dantrapp

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I use versions of these.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

How about you do it the right way and replace the bolt and nut?

codrus

I don't think you're going to fit a nut splitter over the nut because it's too close to the block.

It's time to remove one end of the bolt -- the head is probably easier to get to, so I'd try that. Drill, dremel, cutoff wheel, something like that. You might need to pull the motor + tranny together and do it out of the car.

--ian

boileralum

iTrader: (8)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Dremel to start, air chisel to finish. Come in from the wheel well. Don't overtighten it next time

dantrapp

Right, whats the first step in replacing a bolt and nut? Removing the bolt... Thanks though guy

dantrapp

Alright everyone, looks like I finally have an excuse to buy a dremel! Thanks for the replies.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

If you don't already own the Dremel, don't buy one. They are awful. Get a proper rotary tool that will fit that space, something like a Milwaukee M12 or similar.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I would argue this point.

I've had the same corded multi-speed dremel tool for about the past 15 years. If their quality has gone downhill in recent years, then I'll retract this comment. But I have beat the absolute hell out of that tool, and it's never let me down. I wish I could post a photo and the model number, but I left it at work this weekend, as I've been using it to modify a set of 30 year old Vinten Fulmar camera pedestals to accept a modern robotic head, and also to lock their leaky pneumatic columns in place.

Would I spec this tool for use on an assembly line where it'll be in service for two shifts every day? Hell no. It's a consumer-grade product. But for my needs, it does the job well.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

For small items and small jobs, they are fine. The problem is that nothing on a car is small enough to justify its size and corresponding lack of power. I owned one and threw it away after the collet lock snapped off, dooming it to a lifelong marriage with a broken router bit.

For cutting through the nut and shaft of an M12 bolt, I would not suggest one.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Assuming that you are only doing it occasionally, I would endorse a corded Dremel product for this task. I have used it for much larger jobs. Takes a while, but the light weight and small size make it a winner for me.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Agreed. There are much better tools for working on things than a Dremel. They are for the person who lives in an apartment and only has one power tool.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I thought you were trying to JB Weld the nut in place. Thanks for the negatives.

The answer to getting it off is a cold chisel; split the nut.

codrus

A dremel will cut an M12 bolt just fine. I wouldn't recommend it as a primary metalworking fabrication tool, but they're useful tools to have for miscellaneous small jobs.

--Ian

Erat

iTrader: (5)

When i crack my boat (wood) i use a dremel to router out the crack before applying filler. Dremel is good for light, delicate work, even if it's a big job. In the scenario in which i need to grind down a half inch bolt head, a dremel isn't my first thought. It just doesn't have the *****.

For that i use this:

codrus

I'd use a cutting disc to cut the head off, rather than trying to grind it all away. Dremel will do that fine.

--Ian

Erat

iTrader: (5)

These little guys?

Even with these the Dremel stalls out, chews them up too quickly, or doesn't cut off material.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It will do this, indeed.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I just don't know guys. I'm probably doing something completely wrong with my dremel. Don't get me wrong, i absolutely love it and i know it has it's place. But man i just don't remember it cutting through metal, specifically a bolt head that easily.