you dont need all the wwwwwww. crap, just video id, like the 0324sdaff24lx2

 

aight, scotteeeeeeeeeee. You should drive down here on sunday and bring your o2 sensor and help a brotha out. I'll help you work on your car next week in return

 

How about a vid/sound clip from the opposite end of the car? You know, the head turning, on the street, hood ain't up exhaust note...


- L

 

How about you ship me a bosch wideband o2 sensor nextday so that I can tune it then???

Believe me, I want to hear/see/drive it on the street much worse than you want to. Alot of the loudness and reverb in the vid is because it is mounted on mmr mounts and the car is on jack stands. So the shocks are absorbing 0 vibrations. The car is just vibrating making all kinds of noise. But the video gives you a general idea of what it sounds like.

 

Anywhere as much as I want to hear/see/drive mine?

Yet, even un-tuned, the potential exists to bypass some of the clatter, rush and general mayhem overheard in front of an open engine bay and stand at the rear of the car with a digital camera for a couple of seconds. - Call it an A/V appetizer...

- L

(And before you ask, no I don't (yet) have a YouTube account...)

 

Well, I figured out today that my wb is infact reading correctly. The wild afrs at idle are due to the unburnt fuel leaving the cylinders at idle because of the larger overlap. Unburnt fuel = wb reading lean for those not in the know.

So I tuned the idle by smell and plugs, I got it down to ~900rpm, but it surges to 1100rpm every few seconds and then dies back down again. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow night and hopefully get a more proper vid like Senor Bader requires :P

 

If your trying to get it to idle smoothly with larger cams, open the throttle a little more and retard timing to slow it back down, that will smooth it out and take the lumpiness away, though that's the wicked awesome part about it. Sounds good.

 

Every time I read about "hot" miata cams, I run into the issue of not knowing what the stockers are like... :-)

 

thread delivers. Get a big turbo on there so we can see what those cams will really do.

Someone had better figure out a hot cam setup soon, since I need someone to copy later this year

 

Brian, do you need just the WB sensor or the whole thing? I have a TechEdge languishing in my garage. But I want to keep it complete.

 

i gave him my sensor yesterday to try, same result. unless his controller somehow died in the meantime.

 

Its def not the sensor. I'm gonna bleed the clutch and take it around the block a couple times tonight.

 

I'm bleeding the clutch now and I've got a question. With an open diff, would the drive wheels turn with the tranny in gear and the clutch engaged, turning the wheels manually?

My thought is No, but I've just adjusted the lever all the way out and it has tons of free play. So the lever is not pushing it open and keeping it disengaged. I also know 100% that the clutch is installed correctly!

 

Ok, so I figured out that it was just doing it because its an open diff. So I got my mom to come out there and we both turned the wheel toward the front of the car and it holds solid.

Now the problem is that the clutch doesnt seem to disengage all the way. I have blead the clutch a solid 15 minutes and yet it still has a ton of free play. I'd say it only has like 2" from engagement to hiting the floor. Yes, they clutch lever is all the way out.

 

what kinda clutch?

you may have resistance at the wheels if you turn them by hand but not enough engagement to move the car.

 

I know you say it's 100% correct, so take this as you wish. I've seen people install the clutch fork wrong before and it causes problems. Sometimes they are in backwards, sometimes it's not holding the TO bearing properly. There could be a problem there. Also are you SURE it's not disengauging, as in the car takes off if you crank it in 1st gear with the clutch in?

 

I'm doing these tests with it on jack stands... Its a clutchnet clutch. 3x PP and 6 puck disc

The clutch is installed 100% correctly! I'm not lying, I've installed bunches of clutches. It is not rocket science. I'll leave that at that.

Both the master and slave were brand new during the install. Is there anything special I need to do the make sure that all the air is bled out of both?

 

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder? You know you have to do that, right?

 

That I did not know. What is the procedure for that?

Push cylinder in all the way, dunk fitting end into brake fluid, let cylinder come out?

 

You put it in a vise, fill it up with fluid, dunk the out line into the reservior and SLOWLY push the clylinder in, hold it for 10 seconds, slowly release it. Repeat several times till no air comes out. THen do it a few more times. That's it.