viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Believe it or not, that actually IS a greddy manifold and turbo kit. It is vastly different from the one that we are used to seeing. You can see how it's been modified though, the original was a front mount, but the give away is the extra injector setup in the throttle inlet pipe. The manifold is dead sexy.

I've seen it before and really, really tried hard to find another one to buy. But, it is VERY hard to come across. I've seen that setup maybe four times, five tops.

Darthteddy

Alas....Finally a component worth salvaging. Any comments on possible size of the turbo/flange from the pictures I have. I tried my best to get the numbers off the data plate but the sun was going down and cell phone flash sucks. Would you mind schooling me up on the Pros and Cons of Top mount Vs. Front mount turbos?

I get back from the NSXpo on monday I think and dont have to be back at work till wednesday, so hopefully I can stop by 949 and have them check it all out. Depending on how much I come back with from Vegas I might just leave it with them to do their magic.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Please skip the ricer HID kit....please. You have reflector housings. If the headlights have been upgraded, they'll use H4 bulbs, not H3. But they look to be plain 7" sealed beam units from the pics I have seen. If you want HIDs and want to do it right, get a low-profile kit that has projector lenses. Put HIDs in reflectors and I'll annoy the **** out of you until you stop posting on this forum..it's incredibly stupid, illegal and inconsiderate to everyone on the road as well as not helpful to you at all

Darthteddy

Will projector housings house the h4 bulbs? If not I can just salvage the ballasts and use them on different housings. Not to into the HID thing, but for 20 bucks 8 didn't want to pass it up.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

No. You cannot just pop a H4 kit into any projector and expect it to just work. Nor can you expect to just toss a projector onto your headligh assembly. A H4 bulb is dual-filament bulb..high and low. There are H4 bi-xenon kits out there for applications where projectors are retrofitted to H4 equipped cars, but a basic H4 HID kit is NOT going to be your solution. Not to mention bulb length of the H4.

If you're not looking to spend the cash on a low-pro projector kit, I'd recommend grabbing some Hella E-codes and a slightly higher wattage halogen bulb (skip the "hyper white" or "cool blue" or any other 'fancy' bulbs too...their light output comes at the price of higher bulb cost and about 1/4 the life of a normal halogen bulb). I ran that in my 96 and was quite content, along with some nice fog lights.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Darthteddy,

I think I left my camera in your car somewhere when you dropped by. Maybe under the hood, I don't know. Let me know if you find it.

Darthteddy

I pulled off and looked all over and didn't find it. Wasn't in the cabin or anything either. I don't remember you having it in your hand. Did you set it on the counter or something in the front when you unlocked the door?

pusha

iTrader: (5)

How do you take yourself seriously when driving that thing around? It looks like Darth Vader's parade float.

Darthteddy

Lmfao. I'm 6'1" and own a miata. I don't think there's a way for normal people to take me seriously.

And Emilio, you weren't kidding about cops hating ricers in LF. Go a ticket for 70 in a 65 on the freeway with 10 cars around me. The cop was like, so is this thing a honda or a toyota. Fml.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the jinx. Found the camera here (doh). It'll be good to get that thing dialed in and ready for some track pummeling.

Darthteddy

Was poking around after work today and found this line melted through. Goes to the waste gate if I'm not mistaken. Gonna find a replacement tonight I guess. If I can find some stainless ine ill use that do it doesn't melt through again. I'm also going to start fabbing up some heat sheilding around the turbo and manifold this weekend. Emilio pointed out how close the exhaust was to the intake piping and recomended rotating the cold side of the turbo and re routing the line to the intercooler so it has more clearance.

Does anyone make a vacuum manifold so I can delete all the daisy chaining there is now?



Here's where the line tee's into.



Ill post some pictures after I get done.

CPSmith

you could make one on a drill press by just drilling and tapping a chunk of metal, but it'd probably be simpler to just buy one as they aren't very expensive:
http://www.robearracing.com/pd-blox-...-universal.cfm

Darthteddy

Haven t been doing a whole lot to the mazda in the last week or two but got around to poking under the hood Sunday. Took off the IC and noticed there was a bit of oil inside it and all the lines. Im hoping this is from PCV blowback but im gonna guess it could also be the turbo leaking. I see its a common problem, so im going to start with a catch can of some sort and see if it fixes the problem.

Found out the turbo is a TD05-16g. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=291088 is one of the only threads I can find with some insight on the kit that I have. Can anyone tell me more about this kit and its pros/cons regarding the manifold, turbo size, power expectations, ect?

And lastly, I have a quick question about how it idles. Right now it idles around 2000, and every 10 seconds or so it hiccups and the rpm drops for a split second. Then it catches itself and goes back to 2000. Could this be a bad MAF sensor, or more likely a vacuum leak somewhere? I put in a line from the BOV back into the intake, post MAF sensor, so I dont think it is related to that, unless the BOV is leaking. The EM flange bolts are tight to the turbo, and the WG bolts are tight as well. All the lines and hose clamps post turbo are tight and not leaking. So unless the gaskets are Fubar, then it could be a bad WG or BOV right?