Darthteddy

Picked this up today. No stranger to Cars but never had a miata or a turbo before. Usually just muscle cars and 4x4s. Anyways, tryin to figure out if I got a beater or somethin worth a damn.

It drives like it desperatly needs a tune up. If I floor it, it really boggs down and the turbo doesnt seem like it wants to spool up. But if i just barely press down the gas and find the "sweet" spot itll get up and move. Dont know if would be a leak from somewhere, or the tune.

Also, PO says its runnin at 8psi of boost although I couldnt get anything off the boost controller. Maybe im just retarded tho.

Apparently has...(Ill Just Quote From The Advert)

ENGINE MODIFICATIONS
GREDDY TD04H
GREDDY STAINLESS STEEL TOP MOUNT MANIFOLD
AERODYNE CUSTOM DOWN PIPE
GREDDY EXTERNAL WASTEGATE

AERODYNE CUSTOM V-MOUNT INTERCOOLER W/ PIPING
KOYO RADIATOR CUSTOM V-MOUNT.
GReddy injectors 330CC X 4
WALBRO 255lph

NRG GROUNDING WIRE SYSTEM

ENGINE MANAGEMENT
GReddy Rebic

WHEELS, TIRES, BRAKES
17x7WORK EMOTION CR KAI WHEELS
205/40R17 TOYO R888 TIRES
ROTORA 4 PISTON/330mm brakes


SUSPENSION
TEIN SUPER STREET coilovers

EXTERIOR
NRG CARBON FIBER HOOD DAMPER KIT
NRG CARBON FIBER HOOD LOCK
CUSTOM FIBERGLASS HARD TOP CARBON KEVLAR LOOK FINISH
CARBON FIBER WING
CUSTOM SMOKED TAIL LIGHT

INTERIOR

NRG PILOTA STYLE STEERING WHEELS
NRG HAND BRAKE
NRG BUCKET RACING SEATS
NRG 4 POINT SAFETY HARNESS


CUSTOM BRONZE FINISH HEAD BAR
BLITZ BOOST CONTROLLER
BLITZ GAUGES

This is a pic of the car but now its got no diffusers, stickers, or fake nos.








Anyways. Flame on I guess.

nickblackbelt

iTrader: (5)

wow! how much did you pay for that?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nice "splitter". How many turnbuckles do you have on that car? Front bumper fitment is epic.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry.

Your car is bogging because those itty bitty matchbox car injectors cant give the car enough fuel. Also, if the car still has the stock fuel pressure regulator on it, that 255lph fuel pump is tearing its *** up like a young boy in a gay ****.

Take an engine bay shot so we can see how much work you're really in for; specifically, we want to see if your exhaust manifold is as much of a POS as we think it might be.

You might want to consider ditching that bronze "death bar" and getting a roll bar instead. The cockpit is probably more dangerous with that flimsy bronze thing in than out.

That is *not* a "custom fiberglass hardtop", it is an OEM Mazda hardtop. With a piece of "carbon kevlar look" vinyl pasted over the top.

Brakes = nice
Wheels = pretty
Tires = too narrow

Take pics of the intercooler/radiator v-mount setup. Bonus points for this if it's set up right!

That car have a boost gauge? I would recommend removing your boost controller or turning the boost ALL THE WAY DOWN until you get extremely comfortable with what's going on under that hood.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

The car looks to have potential. Needs the "goo gone" mod.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

It looks much better than all of the Hella Flush Miatas/cars out there. It just needs some tweaking. I'm definitely interested in seeing the custom v-mount radiator/intercooler setup. Glad you took off all of those stickers and yanked out that nitrous bottle... though I do like the graphite/gold/orange color scheme. Definitely yank out that orange style bar as it has potential to become a mouse trap if you roll the car; check out the Hard Dog roll bars. Welcome to the boards. Hopefully you didn't pay too much for it considering what the previous owner has told you and how the car currently acts.

jacob300zx

Get rid of all of the lower non tested aero, ditch that fake roll bar and get a real one, get rid of that nitrous bottle. How are the brakes? Did he put a new master in and prop valve? Sell those front brakes and go back stock or wilwood and throw some 15x9's on there. We need under hood pics. I love the paint color. What did you pay?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

at least it can do this:

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Someone riced this thing up pretty badly. Ditch the bottle behind the fake roll bar, ditch the bar too. Take off those stickers and all the gay lower non functional aero (except to scrape everything). I'm diggin the wheels and the gunmetal looking paint. Get a megasquirt pnp and a set of 460 pnp's. Post engine pics so we can tell you what else you need. Seems like a decent car though, hope you got it for a great deal.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

He already removed the diffusers, bottle and stickers fellas.

jbrown7815

iTrader: (1)

oh lordy

jbrown7815

iTrader: (1)

17" wheels, 205 wide tires.



FAIL

jbrown7815

iTrader: (1)

oh and most of you all fail at reading.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

how about you take new pics?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Darth... you've got something there with a lot of potential but you're gonna hafta take it in another direction than the original owner. Glad you took most of the crap off already. First things to do as mentioned is take detailed pictures of EVERYTHING. Get yourself a photobucket/flickr account and post up some nice closeups of everything in the engine bay, underbody, interior. Get shots of the all the major wiring... find the engine computer under the passenger dash and show us how the wiring in there has been done as well.
HINT: No need to take HUGE *** PICTURES! Set your camera on like 2megapixel so the files aren't so big and you don't blow all your free photobucket bandwidth.

But assuming the car is mostly well-done under the hood and has been taken care of, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it back to respectability.

First thing to do is to disconnect the wastegate actuator so you're not making any boost for the timebeing until you can get the engine management under control. An easy and cheap way to get full standalone EMS is via Megasquirt... throw in some used 440/460/550 Mazda injectors and you're set... wideband is also recommended. You can come across all that for $500-$1000 depending on what you find in the classifieds or what you can make youself. Replace your fuel filter NOW unless you can verify it's been done recently.

I'll just assume the guy has some decent fluids in all the right places, but the rear dif is now the big question. If it has the stock 6" r/p that came in the 90-93 cars, it's not capable of handling those R888's even at stock power levels. You'll need to find out what dif it's got (PICTURES FOR US) and if it's stock, start looking for a used 1994+ dif assembly with Torsen, a drop-in upgrade

Second is the fitment of the hood and bumper. Nobody will give you any respect with that **** so badly assembled. Do what you can. Ditch the style bar. The wing can stay for now... it's not too bad actually, but it's not going to buy you anything performance wise.

Find out what brake pads it's got on it. If you don't plan on running this thing on the track, I'd swap out to some soft'ish street pads to try and get the rotors to last as long as possible... when it comes time to replace them, it's gonna be ******* expensive.

Much more advice will follow with pics and added specifics about the setup.

AND I'M SERIOUS ABOUT THIS... disconnect the wastegate actuator and keep it out of boost until we can sort out your issues. The last thing you need now is to replace a motor on top of what is probably just a few minor fixes!!!!

Now, be a good NOOB and fill our your location in your profile... if we know where you live, somebody local might be a guru and be able to help you out directly. Also, HOW MUCH DID YOU PAY?

02semiata

I would get rid of the r888 if they had any life left on them and either sell them or save them for auto x or track events. Not sure who DD on r-comps but they wont last long if you do.

Darthteddy

Here's shitty pic of it as it sits. Its not my daily driver by any means. Just a play toy. Gotta spend the military dough on something and I ran outta **** to do on my cj5.

New roll bar is gonna happen asap. Most of the uber rice **** is off but it still needs some help. Been looking into the mega squitrt and wide band as one of the first things to do. He said its running like 8 pounds of boost but I'm getting no indication from the boost controler and there's not a gauge yet. Under the hood doesn't look teribly ghetto but there's for sure some items that need adressing.

Paid 6800 for it. Kinda high I guess but all the other FI miatas around here look like ****. For location, I'm in so cal stationed at camp pendleton during the week and live in huntington beach on weekends. Ill update the profile and stuff when I get on a computer and not on my phone.

Brakes are amazing. Not sure what pads they are. Po said their the same ones that came with the rotoro kit. Engine and everything was rebuilt maybe 10,000 miles ago with only 2000 in the last year.

Bumper and hood fit much better now then in the pictures. Not perfect but it looks ok. I'm more worried about how it runs then looks atm. Ill start sourcing the injectors and a new diff in the back. I love the paint color. The "kevlar" finish top wasn't exactly a selling point but its nice to have one. Id rather have it gloss black.

Here's some pics for now till I get off work. Keep the tips commin. Mind the winking in the last one. Wiring for the headlight motors is boogered somewhere so he just put one up to show me hot to do it.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

I dig the paint, standalone, boost gauge, and wideband are 3 things you need.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Sweet. I went to the website listed on the rail in the enginebay and found these...

http://donlysonautoconcepts.com/phot...miata-francis/





Show queen fo sho.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

1st thing that car needs is a goddamn air filter.

No filter = massive FTL