flat tappet lifter pretty much prevent us from getting really aggressive here. If we had roller rockers or something better like that yu could get much more aggressive. You are on the right track though, fast ramp up and closing increase ve a lot!

 

Bill,

So to sum it all up, what is the hold up to be exact?
I would like to help if I can, I want to see this available asap so the price can come down when it is time that I build my head, lol.
I'll spend some time and try to help you out if I can.

 

I want to see evidence of grinds that have been proven to make HP with turbos on BP or B6.

1) cam specs
2) dyno graphs

I have not seen either in response to my OP.

Thanks,

Bill

 

So basically, you want to be handed specs that are already proven to work and then make cams to those specs and sell for a profit, however, you do not want anyone else to have those specs so you can corner the market.
Well ain't that a nice business model, can i haz job? lol

Here is a link posted here not too long ago, they are a reputable co. Hope this gives you some idea.
Huge variety here!

I'd like to see what a 260° duration with .393" lift would do on a dyno, I think that would be a good all around cam for turbo street cars without having to really modify the head much.

 

d) None of the above.

 

Ok, I get it, hardball, lol.

Elliminator over at Mnet is/was using the stage 3 cams from Integral, and saw huge gains, although most people do not even dream of going anywhere near the kind of power he is making and therefore should not expect to see those kinds of gains as the gains are proportionate to the power you are already making.
All the turbo cams have one thing in common, tons of lift!!! How much lift depends on the supporting mods. There is no one cam profile that will be ideal for every BP out there as the best cam is the custom ground one, so I assume that you want to offer a reasonably priced upgrade to all the street cars on a budget. In that case I would just stick to a milder cam that still shows noticable gains with set-ups in the 200-300whp range.
Hopefully this will help you narrow down where to look for more answers.

Dan

 

Thanks for the birds and info.

 

+1

 

Am I in the right forum?

We're talking 500-700 RWHP.

 

+1

right forum here boss

 

Shutup, You are still a nooblet here.

Honestly, there isn't much of a market for ~600whp miata's and there never will be, then again, Bill isn't stupid and knows this as well.

 

Bill, don't you know that there is not a single Miata here with less than 1200rwhp?

 

Oh, I finally get why I was missing it. You guys are talking about blown 302's. In that case Bill can just check out eddelbrock and borrow their specs.

Seriously though, I would like to see a cam that increases mid range torque more than anything, but the bigger gains (obviously) would be easy to acheive in the top end, where turbo's show best gains. Also, what sort of heads are you planning on testing these with, and what sort of port job? Basically, how radical is the head going to be to start?

 

1200rwhp??? ha! i did more with my itbs!

 

Hate to be a dick here...

but seriously... how can you ask people for other cam specs and then go from there for your own? I can hand you a dyno graph and spout off whatever specs I want and show you a 1200hp dyno chart and be like "there ya go, dyno proven" and you have no idea.

If I was in your position, what I would do, is I'd take my 1.8 Miata, and I'd try all the different cams available right now on the market, I.E. Mazdaspeed cams, stock cams, EXhintake cam method, and exhintake cam mod for the mazdaspeed cams. Then I'd find a '99-00 miata, or motor, and try the same thing in that motor. yeah, it's gonna take time and money, but that's how ya do it.

Dynograph yourself (remember, when you want to do something like this, you have to INVEST, and RESEARCH.) what kinds of gains you get from the different cams.

-meaty

 

the word here in aus is that any decent cams need head work to make the most of them.

which is why i guess that most cams for miatas are soo mild. (duration)

relatively speaking.

honda cams on the other are huge,
check the spec VI:
http://buddyclub.com.au/2007/cams/cams_1.html
319 degree duration.

 

Hey now... That doesn't Count!!! You're talking about apples vs watermelons here..

Thats a dual-profile ground camshaft that could be set for any RPM range you could imagine. Look at the MASSIVE difference between the two of them in lift alone, imagine the duration difference also. That first stage grind is likely a 200 degree grind with half the lift of the larger profile for some low end economy and mild grunt. Not to mention that you're talking about a cylinder head that'll flow an Olympic size swimming pool every 22.8 seconds vs OUR shitty *** cylinder heads which move about 20 ounces of water every sixteen days... From the git Honda put their bankroll in the efficiency of their cylinder head design, every bit of it. Mazda crapped something off a shelf that works well in 96% of their cars. "Well" means that, well, it just works.. Maybe not VERY well.. But good enough for the bean counters and emissions *****.

On a side note, check out the valve clearances on those cams.. HOLY ****. Our motors are non-interference designed.. So if my timing belt breaks at 5000rpm, I replace the belt and drive on. Most of those motors.. Good night. :(

 

Yea, I always try to pick up the local Miatas that have a broke timming belt. Everyone thinks they have blown the motor and are suckering me. I have them running in a few hours.

 

http://corksport.com/store/category/...ia-engine.html

5th item down on the list. that looks pretty decent. and they'll build you a head too lol

 

Haha yeah, i bought a Hardtop 92 sunburst like that. I bought it for $500 kept the top and sold the car later that day for $600. The guy i sold it to had it running in no time.