Lumker

I'm currently @ 11,440 miles in my ND, GT package, I picked it up at exactly 4992 miles right before the new years. It's a February 2016 (2/2016 on chassis) car so I'm not sure if it has the gen 1 or gen 2 transmission but it hasn't exploded yet and I drive it pretty rough.

However this week I took it in to have the wheel bearing replaced. The week prior to this it was making all kinds of crazy noises and the front driver wheel was clunking rotating back and forth, with the brake caliper completely off the rotor it was wanting to grab at certain points during rotation. Then magically a day after it was making terrible noises it stopped. They changed it anyways out of fear of it totally failing.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

That is a funky problem. Your car will not have an updated transmission unless it was made on or after 9/6/16.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Filling my 2000 sometimes takes 10-15 minutes of letting the gas slowly trickle in. It absolutely refuses to take a full force load. It will click off after about a half gallon, no matter how empty it is. After it's about half full, it will click off immediately. Pretty annoying.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

but then you refuse to take my full force load too

Lumker

So you think my transmission is still a ticking time bomb? Is it all the transmissions suffering the same issue or is it only some of them? Because I had hopes and dreams of throwing a cam and turbo at this car and it's slowly fading :(

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Wasn't there a fix for that? I don't think I've ever had this issue on mine.

I do tend to overfill it, or go a few clicks past the first one. Usually adds 1-2 gallons. Maybe I'll do this only if I'm going to be going on a long drive right afterwards. I don't want to have more crud to deal with... or break more ****.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I think (know) that your BRZ/FRS would have taken boost better and more reliably.

Lumker

Seeing how my cylinder head grenaded at 29k miles completely stock and while idling at a stop sign, this doesn't make me feel good at all. I made the poor decision of buying a Miata in hopes of less headaches and less fear of stuff breaking

18psi

iTrader: (76)

this thread is filled with poor decisions, hopes, and fear

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Yes but that's not exactly common (they have their share of issues, but they're typically pretty sporadic from what I've seen)

So far this thread has borne out only one major shop who has turbo'd their ND and it blew the transmission in short order. This is not uncommon, it seems.

It appears Mazda slightly overdid it with the whole "add lightness" thing.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

There are three turbo kits out there right now, to my knowledge. You have the BBR one, which is now being pushed by Flyin Miata in the US. You have the AVO kit, which is the one that SB Garage is using that blew the gen 2 transmission not too long ago. Then you have the Turbosource EFR kit, which holds the power and torque record, yet they inexplicably have no problems on their gen 1 transmission.

Mazda obviously won't come out and say what the problem really is, but when street users blow their transmissions, it is 2nd or 3rd gear. The track users, including the Cup cars, keeping blowing 3 and 4. The most common speculation is that it is metallurgical issues, but with SB Garage blowing up their gen 2 transmission at 8 psi on 100 octane gas, then there is a strength problem too. The gen 2 supposedly has stronger gears, but I don't think we will ever truly know.

My personal experience with my '16 Sport transmission is that it has been degrading in feel. It is getting notchier, more difficult to put into gear, and grinds on 2nd and 3rd occasionally. I am at 8800 miles.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

My personal method for filling up any Miata gas tank is letting it do its thing until it clicks off. Then I pull it out enough that I can see the level and start trickling fuel in. I do that until it is all the way up the filler neck. I have done this for nearly a decade now on every single one of my 6 Miatas. No misfire problems across hundreds of thousands of miles, until now, supposedly.

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

The whole "You filled up too much" thing smells like bullshit to me. It hasn't been a problem I've seen popping up anywhere. I don't see how that would hurt a brand new car so much. Seems like they would have idiot proofed it by now. I hope this thing for you is a one time incident and it isn't some widespread engine screw up. I don't think it is, but you never know. Either way, I hope it gets taken care of.

If only the 124's engine didn't blow ***, at least it has a NC transmission. It has to be one of the most frustrating engines on the planet. Not to mention all of the fanbois are claiming the damn thing can easily hit 200whp, I have yet to see one single instance of it doing such.

At the end of the day, we just need to wait and see how glass like these transmissions are. I genuinely hope there is improvement.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

ORLY?
https://www.motor1.com/news/140074/p...at-500-abarth/

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

I think he was referring to making that much HP without replacing almost everything for an extra 45 grand.

One thing is for sure, driving a ND is a ton of fun, but owning one may be another story...

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

Well, I think a engine swap would be cheaper, but whatever. I was talking with bolt ons, maybe I should have specified.

Either way, with that car you are still driving something that looks like the result of a turtle humping a carbon fiber mailbox.

Yes, that is what I meant. I might be a dick and buy a ND anyways, but my cheapness will probably take over, reason will set in, and I will just man up and buy a EFR 6758 or bigger. I'm not feeling my 2871.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I've definitely heard of the over filling issues with newer cars. Read through case studies on it but never saw it first hand. It is a thing. Didn't know the ND had a problem with it, but it doesn't surprise me at all. It can depend on the way the manufacturer checks for evap leaks. I thought most manufacturers wouldn't run evap tests if the tank is above 80% or below 20, but that's not set in stone. For those of you that "top off" beware of this on newer vehicles. Just because you could do it only your old pickup doesn't mean you can on a new vehicle.

If they open open the vent and purge solenoid to draw a vacuum on the tank (common for evap checks) and the tank is over full, this would quickly fill the charcoal canister and even draw liquid fuel directly into the engine. I've also heard it can be very costly as the dealer may want to replace the entire evap system at the cost of the customer. Not saying this will happen here. They basically look at it as operator error and therefore not covered under warranty.

This is isn't the first of this and it won't be the last.

Edit: I think they leave the vent closed to draw vacuum on the tank, but you get the picture.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

I had a long talk to the service writer at the dealer and he really emphasized what you are talking about here. He said Mazda has pushed extra training on the Skyactiv's because of issues like this. He said the Skyactivs are pretty evap happy and run a higher pressure than normal? I still think it is very odd that it has happened only this once when I have always filled it all the way up, but whatevs. They are keeping it over the weekend to run more diagnostics, check out the whole evap system, and also look into the transmission issue.

Dunning Kruger Affect

Welp, I've ruined the car.

I put on Konis and now the car grips even with the OEM tires at full soft.

Lumker

So who prayed to Satan to have my Miata trans break when i joined this?
11900 miles, rolled in second gear onto the throttle starting @ 2k RPMs until i heard a nasty metal echoing pop @ 4k RPMs. Let off gas, transmission violently clunking. Went to first, no issues, shifted to second again, violent clunking, shifted to 3rd and it was a nasty sharp echoing metal on metal sound as if you had something metal and pointy grinding onto something metallic and cylindrical spinning at high speeds. 1st, 4th, 5th and 6th had a nasty gurgling undertone sound to them like something was stirring around in the trans fluid. Limped it home about 20 miles, in my hometown 2nd gear stopped clunking but now starts to make the same nasty sound 3rd does.