After looking more closely, I think the tack welds I thought I was looking at were just the epoxy you used on the yarn.
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Are these going to be an item you regularly stock, or only 1 group buy like the headlight brackets?
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Finally.😃 I can't wait to hack up my extra hood. 😃
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Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1157276)
Alright guys, here is the culmination of our work over the last few weeks. This is a bit of a teaser with the full release and group buy coming tomorrow in a separate thread!
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Is it tomorrow yet?
Just make sure you guys make the edges nice and clean. so i can drill and rivet the thing to my current hood. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1157301)
Are these going to be an item you regularly stock, or only 1 group buy like the headlight brackets?
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1157309)
Is it tomorrow yet?
Just make sure you guys make it so i can drill and rivet the thing to my current hood. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1157310)
We're going to do the group buy first, then if response is good we'll probably work on making them available through Good-Win Racing, but no timeframe on that. The group buy will be the place to get them for now and at a MT.net-only price lower than they will retail for.
Yep, chose a hole size that works with both M5 hardware and 3/16" rivets. Stainless hardware will be included, but that way you have the rivet option. -Ryan |
Very nice! Thank you for taking the time to capture and show data. I appreciate that and my money will be going to you rather than others who just liked to talk.
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You should probably stick with aluminum rivets only. Stainless contacting aluminum in something that will be wet and exposed to electrolytes will make for some bad times.
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I've had stainless hardware on aluminum parts for years, haven't noticed any issues yet, but I'll keep that in mind. I am expecting that everyone will paint these - they look great in even just rustoleum flat black. Although the really clean/sleeper look is going to be if someone paints them body color and paints the bolt/rivet heads :) If someone wants the aluminum look I'll recommend they clear coat them though.
-Ryan |
Got pics of the whole hood?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1157320)
You should probably stick with aluminum rivets only. Stainless contacting aluminum in something that will be wet and exposed to electrolytes will make for some bad times.
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Originally Posted by tomiboy
(Post 1157334)
Got pics of the whole hood?
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Nope, this is the only pic you get ever ;)
Tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1157328)
Although the really clean/sleeper look is going to be if someone paints them body color and paints the bolt/rivet heads.
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Originally Posted by Double O 86
(Post 1157347)
Is there a third option to achieve a 'flush' factory look? JB Weld? Crazy Glue, maybe? :confused:
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As in, no hardware? No, not that I will stand behind. But a few rivets painted body color is going to be very low-key.
-Ryan |
Lol @ Crazy Glue. This is racing, not arts and crafts, man!
3M sells a line of very excellent panel bonding adhesives that are easy to use and excellent for something like this. Window Weld or RTV are surprisingly good for this sort of thing, too, if you're ghetto like that. |
From what I can find, it looks like aircraft use countersunk rivets on the skin for drag reduction. It looks like the substrate material needs to be countersunk, not the skin, and then the rivet is "dimpled" flush with the surface.
3/16" aluminum countersunk rivets are available on McMaster. Edit: I would do bonding material and rivets. Rule #37: There is no overkill, there is only "open fire" and "time to reload." |
To bounce off of somebody's comment about losing the rivets on the hood. If the louvers run along side the under bracing, instead of riveting them to the outer skin of the hood, is it possible to rivet them onto the surrounding bracing on the underside? Specifically on the NB hood that is... ;)
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