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Old 12-02-2015, 06:37 PM   #41
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Have you pulled a plug and checked to see if you actually have spark?

I notice one screw is replaced on the cover, but is there any chance you opened up the never-to-be-touched voodoo VVT innards (behind 4 hex bolts) on the end of the intake cam?

You need to charge your battery before you do any more cranking or you're going to kill it.
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:44 PM   #42
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Might want to check my thread for some troubleshooting. I know its not what you want to hear, but perhaps a very slow redoing of timing belt job to ensure it still lines up fine?

Were you sure to check the trigger wheel orientation?

As mentioned, have you verified spark by sticking a screwdriver in the plug wire and grounding while someone cranks?

Lastly as mentioned, def charge the battery or jump it when you try cranking again
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:18 PM   #43
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So I pulled the coilpacks today on my NB2, and while cranking the car I could barely see any spark. We tested both coilpacks and both of them barely put out any spark. I checked the grounds and fuses, and both are all good. So it sounds like it is the coilpacks? The sparkplugs look like the car was running rich, which is also why I believe it is the ignition system. If it is not the ignition packs, any ideas what else it could be?

Thank you!
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:21 PM   #44
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Seems quite odd that both would fail simultaneously though. No offense, but is there any chance they are not hooked up to the right cylinders?
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:48 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by good2go View Post
Seems quite odd that both would fail simultaneously though. No offense, but is there any chance they are not hooked up to the right cylinders?
No offense taken, but how would one hook them up wrong?
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:58 PM   #46
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Go back to any pics you have, or others of a stock/put together setup...aka how it should be. Could be loose plug wire at either the pack or going into the cylinder... Could be u might have put together in the wrong way

For it to have been running perfectly, and all of a sudden both packs die is very unlikely

Also, u sure you grounding properly when u check? And lastly make sure plug gaps are within limits and plug wires are all on nice and snug. And make sure coil packs are tightened down all the way (don't over do it) along w plugs
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:59 PM   #47
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I'll add to that...you shouldn't see a lightning bolt when testing FYI, so diagnosis of "barely" any spark might just be sunlight etc..

Just trying to help however I can
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:31 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncorlis View Post
No offense taken, but how would one hook them up wrong?
Since I don't have a pic of your current stock nb2 "cop" and plug wire arrangement, it was just a wild speculation that it is theoretically possible to configure your pairs in a 1&2, 3&4 arrangement instead of the correct 1&4, 2&3 arrangement. This theory would probably also need to include non-stock plug wires for it to even be possible though.

As has been mentioned before, the nature of your type of symptoms, where everything worked perfectly before it was disturbed, but not after, is classic for the oversight of some simple bungle in reassembly. You can look straight at it a hundred times, and it all looks good, but then once you finally see it, you're embarrassed at how stupid your mistake was, and often, how easy it is to then fix. We've all been there, we've all done it. Hopefully your fix is just that close.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:15 PM   #49
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Thank you TonyV and good2go for the advice.

Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery

And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:18 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncorlis View Post
Thank you TonyV and good2go for the advice.

Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery

And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
New thought: could this be an anti-theft immobilizer malfunction issue?
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:21 PM   #51
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I have never heard of that before.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:23 PM   #52
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Every NB2 has got one. It's part of the whole chipped key fob deal. There are numerous accounts of them failing too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Mazda-M...=Model%3AMiata

also, at The Parts Group:


ECU w/ Keys,Immobilizer,Trunk Lock,Halo & Remote
Came From A 2004 Mazdaspeed.
$250
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NB2 Won't Start After Timing Belt-img_7564.jpg  
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:28 PM   #53
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I am looking it up, and the symptoms certainly look right, but I cannot find a solution.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:29 PM   #54
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Have you verified fuel pressure?
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:35 PM   #55
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Too many times I've heard, read, and done it myself where its running and then not...gotta be something we're overlooking

OP...beating the dead horse ONE more time, when you say you've triple checked timing...you're visually confirming the CRANK is at TDC per the mark you can only see taking the Crank pulley off...AND the timing marks are lined up on gears vs metal plate behind gears?

TDC on Crank per arrow, gear on left lined up w E and gear on right with I? All THREE confirmed at same time?
(It'll be last I mention...promise just that most of the time THATS the culprit)

And....how about a shot w the valve cover off while everything is lined up...in my issue turns out one of the camshafts was out of alignment...when all is lined up the intake (left) and exhaust(right) should be at 9oclock and 3oclock respectively

***When you pulled the pulley and timing wheel off...how did you reinstall the timing wheel? Tons of reads about people installing backwards and the car starts first try once corrected (won't notice poor fitment during reassembly... Just a matter if markings/orientation)

Let's confirm all this and leave timing out of it...ditto w air, leaving spark and fuel

Spark....screw driver in plug wire-resting on Engine Hook, someone cranking should see a good spark (do in garage or at night so very easy to see)

Fuel...pull intake tube and open throttle body butterfly after some cranking...or pull a spark plug or 2...smell fuel??

Let's be detailed about how your confirming all this, and supporting w pics would be huge as alot of members on here can spot something out of whack easily
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:50 PM   #56
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On the previous page are detailed pictures of the current timing marks. I have done that job twice before, and every time it has ran fine.

As for the pulley, I did not remove the trigger wheel. It was facing the right way before I took the crank pulley off.

Spark: Spark is good. I thought it might be the issue because when we pulled the coil packs out, we could see spark, but it was faint. The car has pretty new ignition lines and spark plugs, and I just installed new coil packs.

Fuel: I can certainly smell it when it is cranked, but I have not tested it.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:55 PM   #57
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I'll offer another WAG that I've heard of before --> you didn't possibly stuff a rag into the air ducting (to block debris entering during repairs) and then forget to remove it, did you?
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:01 PM   #58
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I don't think so lol. Again, I appreciate any ideas you have, but that is funny you ask because I'm sure someone has done that before. I have an Autoexe cold air intake, so I cannot even really reach the filter to block it.

I have been looking up the Immobilizer issue, and people are saying that the car will at least start for a little while before the immobilizer will kill the engine. Mine doesn't even start for a little while. Also, the immobilizer cuts spark, which isn't right because I have that.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:09 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncorlis View Post
Hey everyone, I appologize for the wait. Here is what the timing belt looks like right now. This is the exact position of the belt that caused the car to not run. Or, at least I think it caused it to not run. Does it look ok? I'll use that video's tooth counting method to check.



Your exhaust cam is a tooth off in this picture.

Also, the crank keyway looks like crap/damaged. And you didn't have the bottom pulley exactly centered on the mark either. I would change that keyway and gear piece with new parts that aren't damaged.

Fix cam timing first. Take CLEAR PICTURES and post them up when you do that.

Like this, this is my motor timed correctly. Note I put the camera in a straight ahead view so you can actually see if they are lined up.

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Old 12-08-2015, 10:17 PM   #60
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Apologies...with my own troubleshooting didn't remember previous pics. Seems like most of the above I posted has been ruled out. Seems maybe a tooth off but don't think that'd make a no start condition...

Agree doesn't sound like a immobilizer issue..

Hmmm, time to brainstorm... Will stay tuned and post anything I can think up
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