1991BRG

Why would you have to tune your car with the Autotune?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

:gay:

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

The closer you get your tune to ideal, the less autotune needs to make adjustments so it makes for a better tune overall. It would also help in the initial adjustments to autotune. Also it would be useful when tuning timing.

Granted once autotune is up and running, there isn't much to do, but it is also nice to have a log of WB output vs. rpm/duty cycle/etc... just for tracking down any other issues, etc...

1991BRG

My brain is trying to digest all this new information, but using a wideband and properly tuning the emanage, the Autotune would no longer be required for tuning? (Just trying to understand if I am going to required an autotune?)

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

auto tune is just for people to get in the ball park if you start with a fair map and pay attention and know a little about tuninng you can do without it. but if you have it use it and save some time if not then what ever you feell the most comfortable with should be your choice. In the end we can only lay out your options the choice is up to you we wont be tuning the car and experiencing the headaches first hand so GL man and i hope we can be of more help to you.

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Emanage uses a fixed map to adjust fueling that may not be the "best" tune for all situations. For example, at x level of boost and x rpm it adds x amount of additional fuel. If you are just tuning the emanage map, then this will give you a good base tune that will have to be a bit richer to accomodate for temp/load/etc... Using a WB, you could adjust the map based on the WB readings. Very time consuming to get a really, really good tune.

IMHO, autotune is vastly superior as it adjust fueling in a different way than the base map. Using the WB input, it adjusts fueling realtime to the target AFR in boost. Thus, regardless of load/temp/etc... the autotune will add/remove fuel as needed to keep your AFRs flat around 12-12.5. so the closer your base tune is to these levels, then less adjustment autotune needs to do.

For example, (all numbers are made up for sake of ease) lets say your emanage blue is set to deliver 25% more fuel at 5000rpm at 8psi of boost, then you will get 25% more fuel at this point regardless of load/temp/etc... BUT with autotune, at the same rpm and level of boost, emanage will adjust how much fuel you add (could be more or less than 25%) depending upon the feedback from the WB so if the WB is reading a little lean, it will add more fuel and vice versa.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I've seen three of them in action, tom's included. I wouldn't hesitate to get one with an EMB.

steelrat

Actually you still need a WB with the autotune... for it to work, really effectively.

The Autotune will put x level of fuel in, when it sees a "TPS value".... so.... if you have a WB, you can make sure you are still accurately getting your AFR that you want. It's a check point to make sure you aren't running too rich, or too lean. In my case, I think I'm going so rich, the NB O2, has been thinkin it's lean... so I've been adjusting my maps accordingly.

The Autotune is still running on the NB O2 in my car, but I'm dumping what I think is a lot of fuel for only 7psi of boost.... But since I don't have a WB yet.... I can't confirm this theory. That said, it makes adjusting the maps, and the "concept" of tuning much easier....

Think of it like this..... Your NB O2 has a voltage output for what it thinks the AFR is. So that voltage is feed into the TPS input on the emanage. Depending on what that voltage is, it will correspond to a TPS % (so 50% is 12.5 to 1). If the voltage at this point in time, is 13 to 1, then it will be a TPS % of 47, so you put on the map a unit of fuel to bring it back to 50% (the desired AFR). Then it will have the NB reading change, with the additional fuel, and say if you are over, then it will not add more. If it's still low, it will at it again... etc, etc, etc.... This calculation only occurs when the car is in boost.... (that's what the pressure switch is for). If it's not in boost, the EM will basically do nothing.

The WB O2 can be installed, so that it's also producing a "voltage" for the AFR..... which means, you can use that to look at the "real" AFR vs, what the NB is saying it is. So you can adjust your maps to get a more precise picture of what's happening.

One of the issues with a NB O2, is that it has a very "narrow" acurracy band... hence the name. So you are only trying to read voltages from 0 to 1 volt. A WB is normally 0-5v, which is a much "wider" zone... so you can really, really know what's going on....

I'm sure OG can jump in here to help explain it, if this isn't clear enough....

Dave,

1991BRG

Thanks Steelrat, Braineack, BRGRacer and anyone else I might have left off. I just PM OlderGuy with my current and future setup for my car. Hopefully he will shed more light to my currently slightly confused brain.

miataspeed1point6

iTrader: (1)

Lots of good info here! Here is how I understand it....

WBo2 feeding the Autotune = very good tune

Alpha tools for Emanage will allow me to map the WB as the Aif flow meter 2

The LC-1 can run my NB gauge as a WB

Will I be able to run the LC-1 to the gauge, EMB and Autotune? Or is it pick 2 of the 3 sort of thing?

Thanks again for all the info, I can change my signature now!!

jojonz

Without writing anything I am sitting back here having all my questions answered for me too!!
Thanks all.