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+1 for act. Personally I have to have an organic, non puck, sprung disk. can't stand shudder, and like to slip engagement. the act pressure plates make it easy to run organic, either HD for mid level or xt for high power, you won't have a problem.
I've heard vague rumblings about act to bearings, so just go with mazda oem. |
SPEC Stage 3:
http://elesjuan.googlepages.com/CRW_...ze:651,979.jpg $389.00 and holds 320# of torque. Had one in my Fox Body for a long ass time. |
ACT hd w/ 6 puck here, works great!
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 279641)
where's the dyno plot?
Tim tuned an '03 S4 with a 3" exhaust today. The car's set up: GT2860RS Internally gated, IC #2, 2.75" Downpipe, 3" Mid pipe (no cat), and 3" Left Exit Exhaust. Other mods are minor and of no consequence, oil catch can, powder coating etc... Owner is going the forged internal route this summer, so we tuned for 13 psi as requested. Results: 272.46 rwhp, 235.50 ft-lbs. @ 13 psi. Correction factor: STD 1.03 as calculated by the weather station. Best numbers done with the Xede unit on a Miata so far. Stephanie |
i have the sheet for 8psi, 166hp 158 tq
i didnt save the 10psi one |
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You get what you pay for with clutches. The time and PITA to pull the tranny is a factor you must count in.
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Since it seems that you want a cheap clutch. Get the Ebay Stage 3 special and be done with it. Thats my plan at least.
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Wow, I'm gonna be ordering my clutch from the states when the stock one fuck's out. The cheapest 6 puck clutch in the UK is about £300 near as makes no difference $600!!
F1racing stage 3 FTW. It's so cheap I dont care if it only lasts a year |
For all those who had quickly failing throw out bearings, what brand where the bearings?
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OEM. failed within 40 miles.. POS clutchnet PP.
http://www.boostedmiata.com/clutch/tob_failure001.jpg http://www.boostedmiata.com/clutch/tob_failure002.jpg |
Originally Posted by IcantDo55
(Post 279867)
You get what you pay for with clutches. The time and PITA to pull the tranny is a factor you must count in.
and here is my TO that came apart on mine. but replaced that and all has been great. http://i27.tinypic.com/6563bt.jpg |
Originally Posted by urgaynknowit
(Post 279833)
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ok
so did you get your new throughtout bearing from mazda ? auto zone where?
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Originally Posted by mild to wild
(Post 281360)
So did you get your new throw out out bearing from mazda ? Auto zone where?
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Having cahnged Scott's clutch something like 3 times I have to say do not cheap out. I went with an ACT clutch when I needed a new one and it worked the first time. As opposed to Scott who went with a strange ass clutchnet combo and we had to do it multiple times. After that experience I will never buy other then ACT personally.
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yeah yeah yeah.
centerforce DF PP + clutchnet 6-puck = fail clutchnet 2x PP + clutchnet 6-puck = fail clutchnet 2x PP + shims + clutchnet 6-puck = fail ACT HDD PP + clutchnet 6-puck = win suffice to say, a clutch job is now very easy. |
I think if I were doing it again.. I would definitely go with the one that fit the first time (ACT) :)
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I see some people having trouble with the XTD bearings. How are the bearings that come with the F1 stage 3 ebay clutch?
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I havent swapped my clutch yet, but when I do it will be for an ACT XTSS.
Right now im running 10psi on the stock clutch and interestingly enough it holds in any gear to redline, unless I misshift into fifth and floor it. |
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