Oil filter thread size?
#1
Boost Czar
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Oil filter thread size?
anyone know what is it?
I've been looking to piece together an oil cooler kit and found that the cheap *** ebay ones wouldn't be a horrible deal at $150 shipped.
just wanted to confirm the thread size/pitch of the block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERFO...spagenameZWDVW
I've been looking to piece together an oil cooler kit and found that the cheap *** ebay ones wouldn't be a horrible deal at $150 shipped.
just wanted to confirm the thread size/pitch of the block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERFO...spagenameZWDVW
#6
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-10an is not tiny. plus you idle with 30psi of oil pressure, you think it's hard for things traveling at 30psi? if that's the case, why do we run radiators....gotta slow the coolant flow like mad crazy, and it's only 13psi.
#7
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It'll be fine, pressure-wise. I used to run a very similar setup, using -10AN. My only problem was significant over-cooling of the oil, and my sandwich plate had a thermostat (unlike that one, seemingly).
After that I ripped it all out and installed an OEM oil cooler off a 1.8 engine. No problems since.
After that I ripped it all out and installed an OEM oil cooler off a 1.8 engine. No problems since.
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I'm thinking maybe ill piece together something smaller instead. this puppy is only $45 shipped -8an lines. i think i can get the sandwich plate and lines for another 75 shipped or so.
#12
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The problem was not so much the size of the cooler as the thermostat. None of those things close fully when cold, and from the looks of the plate Brainey posted I'd guess there's no thermostat in that one at all.
With the OEM 1.8 cooler, the oil runs a little hotter when I'm really pushing it (maybe 230° tops) but on the street it comes up to temperature even faster than it did stock (due to the water heating the oil, I presume) and stabilizes around 190°.
You should seriously consider it.
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Here it is in the parts diagram:
Here's a horribly underexposed and subsequently post-processed image of it installed. For reference, pressure sender is upper-left, alternator is at right.
Better exposure, but poorer angle:
Here's a horribly underexposed and subsequently post-processed image of it installed. For reference, pressure sender is upper-left, alternator is at right.
Better exposure, but poorer angle:
#19
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Yup. All the 1.8s had 'em.
Now granted, the cooling ability of this thing on the track isn't going to compare to a big external cooler, because of course the water itself is running at 180° or so to begin with.
Unless...
Let's say you want the best of both worlds. Faster warmup and decent temps on the street, but also the ability to run flat out on the track and have maximum oil cooling.
Normally, this thing is fed in series with the little water line that goes through the TB. What if, after the TB, you took that line and fed it to a two-way valve. One output went straight to the oil cooler, the other went to a little radiator (like what the W/A IC guys use) and then to the oil cooler. Throw the valve to the radiator position and I bet it'll cool nearly as well as a big plate oil cooler, but without the pressure drop and risk of bursting and fire.
Chalupa, anyone?
Now granted, the cooling ability of this thing on the track isn't going to compare to a big external cooler, because of course the water itself is running at 180° or so to begin with.
Unless...
Let's say you want the best of both worlds. Faster warmup and decent temps on the street, but also the ability to run flat out on the track and have maximum oil cooling.
Normally, this thing is fed in series with the little water line that goes through the TB. What if, after the TB, you took that line and fed it to a two-way valve. One output went straight to the oil cooler, the other went to a little radiator (like what the W/A IC guys use) and then to the oil cooler. Throw the valve to the radiator position and I bet it'll cool nearly as well as a big plate oil cooler, but without the pressure drop and risk of bursting and fire.
Chalupa, anyone?