anyone know what is it?

I've been looking to piece together an oil cooler kit and found that the cheap *** ebay ones wouldn't be a horrible deal at $150 shipped.


just wanted to confirm the thread size/pitch of the block.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERFO...spagenameZWDVW

 

20x1.5

 

Should be 20 mm, supposedly the same as honda civics so says glowshift.

 

good. ill probably pick this up then. might as well give er a shot.

 

Wouldnt that thing hinder oil flow. Think aboot it the oil has to come to the sandwich plate, run through the cooler then come back to the plate and exit through those two tiny exits into the filter. Thats gotta be bad for something.

 

-10an is not tiny. plus you idle with 30psi of oil pressure, you think it's hard for things traveling at 30psi? if that's the case, why do we run radiators....gotta slow the coolant flow like mad crazy, and it's only 13psi.

 

It'll be fine, pressure-wise. I used to run a very similar setup, using -10AN. My only problem was significant over-cooling of the oil, and my sandwich plate had a thermostat (unlike that one, seemingly).

After that I ripped it all out and installed an OEM oil cooler off a 1.8 engine. No problems since.

 

Joe what size cooler did you have that was "overcooling"? I too was considering that 150 dollar setup, but I did not consider that as a factor. School me!

 

would something similar in a -6an be better? i actually just wanted a teeny-tiny 6row to mount under the a/c dryer.

 

Whats the diameter of the tubing tunning through the coild? ID

 

I'm thinking maybe ill piece together something smaller instead. this puppy is only $45 shipped -8an lines. i think i can get the sandwich plate and lines for another 75 shipped or so.

 

It was the smallest one that Earl's makes. Looked almost identical to the Setrab one that Brainey just posted, only with -10 lines. It was great for blasting through the canyons, but on daily-driver duty my oil took half of eternity just to get up to 160° or so (measured at sump).

The problem was not so much the size of the cooler as the thermostat. None of those things close fully when cold, and from the looks of the plate Brainey posted I'd guess there's no thermostat in that one at all.

With the OEM 1.8 cooler, the oil runs a little hotter when I'm really pushing it (maybe 230° tops) but on the street it comes up to temperature even faster than it did stock (due to the water heating the oil, I presume) and stabilizes around 190°.

You should seriously consider it.

 

We should see if someone can get a group buy together through MazMart

 

what does that stock cooler look like?

found the mocal plate with 190° thermostat for about $95 shipped.

 

Here it is in the parts diagram:





Here's a horribly underexposed and subsequently post-processed image of it installed. For reference, pressure sender is upper-left, alternator is at right.



Better exposure, but poorer angle:

 

so what miatas came with oil coolers? Ben gotta a source?

 

94+

 

Group buy this biotch. I would much rather have a stock solution then an ebay kit

 

Yup. All the 1.8s had 'em.

Now granted, the cooling ability of this thing on the track isn't going to compare to a big external cooler, because of course the water itself is running at 180° or so to begin with.

Unless...

Let's say you want the best of both worlds. Faster warmup and decent temps on the street, but also the ability to run flat out on the track and have maximum oil cooling.

Normally, this thing is fed in series with the little water line that goes through the TB. What if, after the TB, you took that line and fed it to a two-way valve. One output went straight to the oil cooler, the other went to a little radiator (like what the W/A IC guys use) and then to the oil cooler. Throw the valve to the radiator position and I bet it'll cool nearly as well as a big plate oil cooler, but without the pressure drop and risk of bursting and fire.

Chalupa, anyone?

 

at what point are oil temps too high? and what exactly happens when oil is too hot?