Pulled my head today. (Think I have a problem) Pics inside - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-05-2008, 11:15 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
The FM MLS gasket is a Cometic MLS gasket for the 1.6. The stock 1.6 HG is not MLS nor are any of the aftermarket "cheapo" brands. I can't speak for 94-97 1.8 HG's but I do know that starting in 99 the stock gasket is a MLS gasket and all the aftermarket manufacturers followed suit.
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Pat, the 1.6 oe gasket is composite. The only 1.6 mls gasket I am aware of is retailed through FM. Personally, I would pony up and get the mls gasket. <edit>damn, guess I should have read all the replies before posting.
Ah, si. Well then it may be worth upgrading. I do hate the composite gaskets myself. The blow too easy. Ok, to the OP buy that FM gasket.


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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
What do you mean check the block?
Make sure the deck is square. I already said that.

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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
hypothetically speaking, what would one expect to pay in labor for a rebuild.

Complete rebuild kit from Performance auto parts is $326.70
Rods from M-tuned $399.00
Head refresh was gonna be $130 will obviously need more work now $??
Labor????

Someone tell me to just rebuild the head and slap it back together please. lol
I can assume you know little about engines. You need to look and see if there's any visible scaring in the cylinders. See if the deck of the block is flat.

Buy a replacement and drop it in, or take your old motor to a machine shop and tell them to build you a long block with the parts you supply.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:19 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
I'd definitely look to a used engine
+1

If you are just looking to get back on the road and be whole for the least $$$, find a used motor and swap it and be done with it. It shouldn't be too hard to find a wrecked car with a good engine for cheap. People sell whole cars (1.6l) for way under $1k when they've been cosmetically trashed.

If you want to use this as an opportunity to justify engine work "while you are already in there", that's a different story. At this point, cheapest/easiest is a straight swap.

You could even buy a beater, swap your bad engine into the beater and resell it to someone that wants a project.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:29 AM   #43
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Ah, si. Well then it may be worth upgrading. I do hate the composite gaskets myself. The blow too easy. Ok, to the OP buy that FM gasket.




Make sure the deck is square. I already said that.


I can assume you know little about engines. You need to look and see if there's any visible scaring in the cylinders. See if the deck of the block is flat.

Buy a replacement and drop it in, or take your old motor to a machine shop and tell them to build you a long block with the parts you supply.
Im not the most knowledgable. I have never done any internal engine work so this is new to me. Im seriously considering taking this opportunity to do a "mild" build. Like I said earlier, I have no plans for huge #'s. My 2554 can only do so much.

With that said. Im giving myself 2 options. 1st. Rebuild my spare head, slap it back together and hope for the best. 2nd. Save some money and do a mild build.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:44 AM   #44
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1.6's are CHEAP. Buy one and drop it in. Done. Fast.
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:00 PM   #45
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1.6's are CHEAP. Buy one and drop it in. Done. Fast.

Meh, if im gonna pull the rest of the motor id rather just put a nice fresh one in there. Im not a big fan of buying high mileage motors and not knowing its history.
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:40 PM   #46
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I have a motor at work w/ under 40k. We get $900 for it. I recommend something like this as a path for you to take.

You're going to be in this old motor for at least $2500 to rebuild the whole thing on the cheap.
I'm projecting $2500 for just my block, and it's not an "all out" build.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:16 PM   #47
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The Jap motors are low mileage. The taxes in Japan on a car more than a couple of years old are so high that they are better off scraping and sending the motors and transmissions to the US and/or exporting the parts/cars to other countries.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:16 PM   #48
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It would be almost impossible to build a stock 1.8 for less than 2K. 2500 is about right for a stock motor rebuild after all expenses, and that's if you do the motor swaping. Find a 1.6. Do a LEAKDOWN TEST ( Hint: this is what you should have done before pulling your head). If it don't leak it's fine. Pull the valve cover and make sure it's not full of acorns or sludge. Buy it. Put a TB and WP on it and run it. Used motor if you pull it at a local yard is 200-300 probably. Then another 300 for TB WP and whatnot. Cheaper than a "mild build" which would likely be a new stock motor with 2-3 insignificant upgraded parts.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:29 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Who are they kidding? "FM Exclusive"...HAHAHAHA, they are Cometic gaskets, I have 3 .040" and 4 .051" thickness ones about 20 ft from me. I guess I work at FM now.....
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:30 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
It would be almost impossible to build a stock 1.8 for less than 2K.

You are so getting proved wrong on at...wait a few months. (not me btw, but I know of a build that will blow your mind)
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:40 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Ben View Post
I have a motor at work w/ under 40k. We get $900 for it. I recommend something like this as a path for you to take.

You're going to be in this old motor for at least $2500 to rebuild the whole thing on the cheap.
I'm projecting $2500 for just my block, and it's not an "all out" build.

What are you doing for $2500?


Here's what im thinking.

Belfab rod and piston combo $805
Labor from a friend $300
Refresh my spare head $130
Re-Ring Kit: contains complete gasket set, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers (if applicable) and a ring set. Rings: Std., .020, .040. $220-$235

Total= $1455-$1470

Timing belt and water pump are less than a year old, so no worries there.

Anything else im missing?
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:41 PM   #52
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Who in the world could possible build a 1.8 for any less than 2k, I call shenanigans!
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:49 PM   #53
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People take the word "rebuilt" differently. Depends what you replace I suppose. Here, a machine shop charges 600 labor to rebuild a 4 cylinder, 1000 labor to rebuild a V8. That cost is for standard labor of machining and assembling the long block to factory spec. It doesn't include any parts and gaskets. Your head needs 3 seats, a valve guide, stem seals, 4 valves, and a lifter, that's extra. Parts and gaskets can vary a lot too, depends what you call a rebuild. Could spend a 1000 on parts easy. But I will say there's a BIG difference between a rebuild and a refresh, which I believe some people are getting confused. GOOD machinist aren't cheap. New parts cost more than old used parts. **** adds up.

I know a "refresh" can be done cheap, I've done that too. That's not a rebuild though.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:50 PM   #54
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Who in the world could possible build a 1.8 for any less than 2k, I call shenanigans!
Well then, good luck proving yourself wrong.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:52 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
People take the word "rebuilt" differently. Depends what you replace I suppose. Here, a machine shop charges 600 labor to rebuild a 4 cylinder, 1000 labor to rebuild a V8. That cost is for standard labor of machining and assembling the long block to factory spec. It doesn't include any parts and gaskets. Your head needs 3 seats, a valve guide, stem seals, 4 valves, and a lifter, that's extra. Parts and gaskets can vary a lot too, depends what you call a rebuild. Could spend a 1000 on parts easy. But I will say there's a BIG difference between a rebuild and a refresh, which I believe some people are getting confused. GOOD machinist aren't cheap. New parts cost more than old used parts. **** adds up.

I know a "refresh" can be done cheap, I've done that too. That's not a rebuild though.
Im not gonna use that head. I have a good spare one that I will just have refreshed.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:04 PM   #56
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new head gasket $20, spare head $40 milling. I think the choice is clear
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:15 PM   #57
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new head gasket $20, spare head $40 milling. I think the choice is clear
Yes if you have a good head chillin in the garage, put it on your block (check the deck for square and get a new gasket). Then do compression and leakdown. That's only an afternoon's work.

BTW, you're retarded if you don't get a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and guide. I don't care if Jesus changed it out himself. If you're there, replace it. And the oil pump too (get the oil pump gears from the gb).

I've listed my intended build in another thread. I don't have time to list it out now. There are incidentals and might as wells that should be done while inside the motor. I'm doing all the practical ones.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:34 PM   #58
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Yes if you have a good head chillin in the garage, put it on your block (check the deck for square and get a new gasket). Then do compression and leakdown. That's only an afternoon's work.

BTW, you're retarded if you don't get a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and guide. I don't care if Jesus changed it out himself. If you're there, replace it. And the oil pump too (get the oil pump gears from the gb).

I've listed my intended build in another thread. I don't have time to list it out now. There are incidentals and might as wells that should be done while inside the motor. I'm doing all the practical ones.

So maybe im retarded then. The timing belt and water pump are the least of my concerns. To easy and cheap the even worry about it. As for the oil pump gears, no thanks. Like I said I have no plans for huge #'s or to spin this engine any faster than it does.

Belfab rod and piston combo $805
Labor from a friend $300
Refresh my spare head $130
Re-Ring Kit: contains complete gasket set, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers (if applicable) and a ring set. Rings: Std., .020, .040. $220-$235

Total= $1455-$1470

Is there anything im missing from this list?
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:08 PM   #59
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You can't just throw on bearings from a generic kit and expect them to work. What if your clearances are too tight, or too loose? Then what?

You are definitely retarded not to include the costs of timing belt, water pump, and oil pump. Thats another $200 right there for parts off Ebay.
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:27 PM   #60
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You can't just throw on bearings from a generic kit and expect them to work. What if your clearances are too tight, or too loose? Then what?

You are definitely retarded not to include the costs of timing belt, water pump, and oil pump. Thats another $200 right there for parts off Ebay.
Im just using that bearing kit as an example for pricing. My friend who would build it would get the correct bearings and at a better price.

I already have all the gaskets and seals.

So, adding the water pump/tb kit and oil pump $200
Belfab rod and piston combo $805
Labor from a friend $300
All new bearings $100-$150 ish
Refresh my spare head $130


Puts me between $1550 and $1600 and I would keep a couple hundred on the side for just in case.

Anything else?
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Last edited by levnubhin; 09-05-2008 at 03:39 PM.
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