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Should I just give up and start over?

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Old 08-29-2017, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
I wouldn't recommend SOTH's power as something for a newb to emulate on a stock motor. He had it last as long as he did because he knows how to tune. He was probably in the 280 range with his trap speed.

I know that my motor would have blown a long time ago if I had tried that...

225 is a healthy goal though.

The worst thing about having a turbo kit for a 1.6 is that you'll have to replace it with another 1.6 if/when you blow it. Or you'll need an entirely new setup as well.
Yeah true, or wouldn't I just have to change out the manifold if I went to a 1.8 later down the line?
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by viperormiata
Since no one else mentioned it, keep a close eye on the classifieds (and facebook). I just picked up a mint FM2 clutch on the dirty. Quality used parts are pretty easy to come by.
Oh I check the classified section pretty regularly on here. It's always unfortunate because I never find something when I have money, but always find exactly what I need when I don't have money.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LittleCarBigFun
Yeah true, or wouldn't I just have to change out the manifold if I went to a 1.8 later down the line?

With the MKTurbo setup you just need the 1.8 manifold when you do the swap. Well and some slight changes in IC pipes.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
With the MKTurbo setup you just need the 1.8 manifold when you do the swap. Well and some slight changes in IC pipes.
That's what I thought. Obviously IC piping for a bit of a different engine layout
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofan
stock engine in STH's car.
Ask him how that turned out
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:22 PM
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Ha. Well, it WAS stock, til it popped. Definitely was well past the sell by date on that one.

I agree with Lars on the clutch stuff. In a stock turbo MSM we'll be fine but a 1.8 clutch would be a safer bet. Same deal though, can go with an eBay flywheel if you want something lighter than stock. We'll see how it balances out...
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:14 PM
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Theres also the ACT HD and Xtreme pressure plates good for 250-350 depending on the exact flavor disc. You can buy a complete kit for around $400.
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:47 PM
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Isn't that plus flywheel?
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Old 08-30-2017, 04:19 PM
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Well there's a big difference between street reliable and track reliable. If it is a street car only then I think you can get by with the 1.6L route (flame-suit on).

200-225 WHP can be achieved with:

-Your choice of log manifold + DP
-Megasquirt 3
-Intercooler
-GT2554R or GT2560R
-E85
-FF640CC Injectors
-Used 1.8L Open or Torsen Diff
-Clutch
-Radiator

Not having to be track prepped really opens up your options and that's what I think makes it viable.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
Theres also the ACT HD and Xtreme pressure plates good for 250-350 depending on the exact flavor disc. You can buy a complete kit for around $400.
I liked my ACT clutch, but I like both the FM1 and 949 Organic better. They are both cheaper and hold more torque.
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
Well there's a big difference between street reliable and track reliable. If it is a street car only then I think you can get by with the 1.6L route (flame-suit on).

200-225 WHP can be achieved with:

-Your choice of log manifold + DP
-Megasquirt 3
-Intercooler
-GT2554R or GT2560R
-E85
-FF640CC Injectors
-Used 1.8L Open or Torsen Diff
-Clutch
-Radiator

Not having to be track prepped really opens up your options and that's what I think makes it viable.
Why would 1.6 vs 1.8 make a different for track? It'll still cost about the same to get either of them to that power level reliably. The power delivery will be better for the 1.8, but I'd think that might matter a bit less on a track car that's mostly going to be in the higher revs.

You also don't need E85 for that power level, but I'm sure it helps everything along.
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Why would 1.6 vs 1.8 make a different for track? It'll still cost about the same to get either of them to that power level reliably. The power delivery will be better for the 1.8, but I'd think that might matter a bit less on a track car that's mostly going to be in the higher revs.

You also don't need E85 for that power level, but I'm sure it helps everything along.
When building a car for the track it justifies getting some of the best parts that money can buy with some in-depth research and testing. (Examples TSE Turbo kit, Xidas, Inconel studs etc.). Where as you can get away with a lot less on street cars. So if you are going to build a car for track use, it warrants the ~$1,000 1.8L swap as you are already pigeon-holed into buying quality parts. Any lost track time is expensive and can be worth the whole racing season in points for a TT competition. Any lost street time is just that, time.

What's $1,000 on top of a $8,000 track build? Not much.
What's $1,000 on top of a $3,000 street build? Quite a bit more.

Also I suppose you could make the argument that a 1.8L VVT @ 200 whp will be running less boost than a 1.6L @ 200 whp and therefore it's stressing the turbo less and less heat etc. But that's splitting hairs.
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
Well there's a big difference between street reliable and track reliable. If it is a street car only then I think you can get by with the 1.6L route (flame-suit on).

200-225 WHP can be achieved with:

-Your choice of log manifold + DP
-Megasquirt 3
-Intercooler
-GT2554R or GT2560R
-E85
-FF640CC Injectors
-Used 1.8L Open or Torsen Diff
-Clutch
-Radiator

Not having to be track prepped really opens up your options and that's what I think makes it viable.
Yeah, Mia is definitely not a track car. She'll be going to the occasional autocross and track day, but most definitely not a dedicated track car. And for the most part I've got everything planned out. I just want to get my bullshit stuff sold right now.
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

Also I suppose you could make the argument that a 1.8L VVT @ 200 whp will be running less boost than a 1.6L @ 200 whp and therefore it's stressing the turbo less and less heat etc. But that's splitting hairs.
It's actually pretty relevent, I went from 10 psi to 12-13 psi at my last track day and it was enough exhaust heat to stretch my down pipe studs when they had previously been fine. Swapping in inconel now.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Why would 1.6 vs 1.8 make a different for track? It'll still cost about the same to get either of them to that power level reliably. The power delivery will be better for the 1.8, but I'd think that might matter a bit less on a track car that's mostly going to be in the higher revs.

You also don't need E85 for that power level, but I'm sure it helps everything along.
The 1.6 vs 1.8 makes a difference because the TSE manifold is 1.8 only.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:57 AM
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Gearing and turbo choice play a part too. My car with 3.6 gears and a 2871R at 8 psi is less fun than Aidan's old 1.6 with a TD04 and 3.9s at 10-12 psi. Roughly the same WHP, but his car spooled quicker and pulled out of slower corners harder. At ORP he was down at like 6 psi and I was at 8, but he came out of the corners just as hard.
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
The worst thing about having a turbo kit for a 1.6 is that you'll have to replace it with another 1.6 if/when you blow it. Or you'll need an entirely new setup as well.
This is the other part of the reason I am playing with superchargers. The JRSC kit can be easily put from a 1.6 on a 1.8 (which is happening far sooner than I would have thought!). But I am holding off on buying a turbo mani until I for sure have a 1.8 to put in. I want to buy one, nice, cast one and call it done. (the other reason for the superchargers is that I got them cheap, but in repairable condition and once fixed, just one kit will cover the cost of my 1.8 swap, and the other should cover the mani, downpipe and turbo.)
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofan
Gearing and turbo choice play a part too. My car with 3.6 gears and a 2871R at 8 psi is less fun than Aidan's old 1.6 with a TD04 and 3.9s at 10-12 psi. Roughly the same WHP, but his car spooled quicker and pulled out of slower corners harder. At ORP he was down at like 6 psi and I was at 8, but he came out of the corners just as hard.
I would imagine so. I've got a 4.10 torsen in the mail and a buddy gave me his "kit". But I just want to sell the ****. It's a stainless manifold and a TD05 16G turbo, I would see it breaking after 3 minutes of driving. At least he gave me a treadstone intercooler and an innovate AFR gauge and boost gauge. Turbo and manifold are going bye bye
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:32 PM
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The only real silver lining for the 1.6 is that people, literally, throw away baller turbo parts and built engines for dirt cheap because of the stigma created by this board that the 1.6 is almost unusable as an engine. The absurd deals I've gotten on parts is almost unfair.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by viperormiata
The only real silver lining for the 1.6 is that people, literally, throw away baller turbo parts and built engines for dirt cheap because of the stigma created by this board that the 1.6 is almost unusable as an engine. The absurd deals I've gotten on parts is almost unfair.
That's good to hear! I actually just made a list of all the things that I need now for my build and priced everything out so I can build in stages
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