Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips
#1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Stein's Frame Rail Install Tips
First off, there is a minor problem. You will need to get two #10 machine screws to replace the #8's that I supplied with the rails. These are used to mount the fuel line brackets. The #8's are just a bit too small. I discovered this after I had packed the rails. Sorry.
Jack up the car and put it on jackstands as high as you can get it. Try to ensure that the car is as level as possible so as to not induce any twist when you bolt up the rails. You have to drill from the bottom, so give yourself as much room to work as possible.
Remove the seats and carpet. The carpet doesn't have to come out, just remove enough to get it out of the way. I used a spring clamp to hold the carpet to the shifter. See photo.
The floor is pretty thin, so drilling isn't that tough. I used a Unibit, as it only had to punch through 3/16" and then stepped to 1/4" then 5/16". Easier than drilling 5/16" from solid but either will work.
I positioned the front of the rail right at the seam in the front. The notched corner goes to the inside front. You don't want to be back too far, as the rear holes are very close to the radius of the tub and moving it back will make the rear holes fall in the radius. See pictures below. I used the floor jack to hold the rail up and then got the first hole drilled. Insert the bolt and just snug it. That will hold the rail in place. You can then remove the jack. Drill and bolt one of the holes on the opposite end. After that, I drilled all of the holes and bolted everything at one time. Just barely start to snug them up as you go. After all are in, go back and torque them down.
On the passenger side, remove the two clips that hold the fuel line. Bend the tabs like the photo below. Due to clearance, I didn't drill or install the inside rear bolt. I don't know if an NA is different, but the NB had a lot of tension on the fuel lines and I didn't want to risk them rubbing on that bolt and wearing through.
Any questions when you are installing, post them here.
Jack up the car and put it on jackstands as high as you can get it. Try to ensure that the car is as level as possible so as to not induce any twist when you bolt up the rails. You have to drill from the bottom, so give yourself as much room to work as possible.
Remove the seats and carpet. The carpet doesn't have to come out, just remove enough to get it out of the way. I used a spring clamp to hold the carpet to the shifter. See photo.
The floor is pretty thin, so drilling isn't that tough. I used a Unibit, as it only had to punch through 3/16" and then stepped to 1/4" then 5/16". Easier than drilling 5/16" from solid but either will work.
I positioned the front of the rail right at the seam in the front. The notched corner goes to the inside front. You don't want to be back too far, as the rear holes are very close to the radius of the tub and moving it back will make the rear holes fall in the radius. See pictures below. I used the floor jack to hold the rail up and then got the first hole drilled. Insert the bolt and just snug it. That will hold the rail in place. You can then remove the jack. Drill and bolt one of the holes on the opposite end. After that, I drilled all of the holes and bolted everything at one time. Just barely start to snug them up as you go. After all are in, go back and torque them down.
On the passenger side, remove the two clips that hold the fuel line. Bend the tabs like the photo below. Due to clearance, I didn't drill or install the inside rear bolt. I don't know if an NA is different, but the NB had a lot of tension on the fuel lines and I didn't want to risk them rubbing on that bolt and wearing through.
Any questions when you are installing, post them here.
#4
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Good point. I didn't bother, as my car is a fair weather car. If you use your car for daily duty, you should place some form of sealant between the upper washer and the floor pan to seal the raw edge of the hole.
#8
you could just drill one 1" hole towards each end and then every so often use a garden hose or an air compressos to flush it out once in a while.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#9
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Probably could run a bead of clear silicone caulk around the two ends if it concerned you. Dimensionally, the inside with and height is the same as the other versions on the market.
#11
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
#15
Elite Member
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Posts: 3,224
Total Cats: 3
Cool, thanks Stein, I reckon between using anti-rust primer on the drilled holes + touching up any previously made scrapes on the stock rails with under sealant, there should be no problems. I'll prob run the hose down it when I wash the car too (like I do round the wheel arches).
Steve
Steve
I plan to do exactly what Steve said too.
Many thanks Stein.
#16
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
#17
Same inside dimensions as the FM rails. The gap between the rail and the stiffener is about 1/8". It could have been made tighter, but it allows for any irregularity in the rails from past bumps and bruises. Overall, the rail is less than 1/4" from outside of rail to outside of original rail.
Just a heads up to people to consider some sort of water proofing. Maybe even drilling a whole bunch of holes straight down the channel to aid with drainage.
#18
I have learned from experience that no matter how small a gap is, water will get into it. The FM rails would probably have less problems with trapping dirty and water because of how they are "lightened".
Just a heads up to people to consider some sort of water proofing. Maybe even drilling a whole bunch of holes straight down the channel to aid with drainage.
Just a heads up to people to consider some sort of water proofing. Maybe even drilling a whole bunch of holes straight down the channel to aid with drainage.
Drill or cut holes everywhere...
#19
Got mine installed today. Only thing I might do different is move the rail forward ~1/4" or so. Had to leave the top washers off the back bolts because the bolts were right against the tub.
Except for spinning the car (first time ever), intial driving impresions are very positive. Car doesn't creak as much, bumps and dips don't upset the car as much. Car feels much more solid. Can/do the rails make the car more tail happy?
Thank you Stein.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail2.jpg
Except for spinning the car (first time ever), intial driving impresions are very positive. Car doesn't creak as much, bumps and dips don't upset the car as much. Car feels much more solid. Can/do the rails make the car more tail happy?
Thank you Stein.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...FrameRail2.jpg