Stock 1.6L + EFR 6258 = bad idea?
01-04-2012, 05:58 PM
#22
Tour de Franzia
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Do yourself a favor, pull the engine. Then take the time to clean up the factory wiring in the front of the car, cut a big hole for "new" wires to the turbo parts, drill the oil drain further back towards the trans, cover the under-side of the car in DEI tunnel matt, and plan this out. Learn from what I say, those compromises that "would just take too long" will haunt you. It was nice to pull the head off this winter and clean-up all those little things and I feel a lot safer in the car now with more reliability and more safety.
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I'd assume figures in the 10%+ range are potentially make-or-break 18psi.
01-04-2012, 06:06 PM
#26
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01-04-2012, 06:52 PM
#29
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Question is how much does it typically run to get the motor and source the parts myself and have work done somewhere?
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01-04-2012, 06:59 PM
#31
Even arguments about warranty come down to what you have access to and local policies vs. vendor policies, so it's something you'll have to put the time into finding this out for yourself.
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01-04-2012, 07:04 PM
#33
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Both cost of motor and work are dependant on your geographical location. As an example, I am extremely lucky to be able to source an early high-mileage 1.8 for $650-$800, whereas I've heard other people on here talk about sourcing low mileage 02-05 VVT's for $700 easily (Those are $1.2k+ where I am typically). Work is equally dependant, as it depends on shop's labor rate + labor put in.
Even arguments about warranty come down to what you have access to and local policies vs. vendor policies, so it's something you'll have to put the time into finding this out for yourself.
Even arguments about warranty come down to what you have access to and local policies vs. vendor policies, so it's something you'll have to put the time into finding this out for yourself.
I can pay these vendors $700 for a core charge and have them build it right, to my door.
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01-04-2012, 07:06 PM
#34
Considering the time it saves you (Which is significant), and how much you get, a crate engine from a forum sponsor builder is a lot better of a proposition than it sounds initially. I'm seriously considering going with a TSE longblock rather than farking with it at this point.
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01-05-2012, 08:54 AM
#36
Tour de Franzia
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Both cost of motor and work are dependant on your geographical location. As an example, I am extremely lucky to be able to source an early high-mileage 1.8 for $650-$800, whereas I've heard other people on here talk about sourcing low mileage 02-05 VVT's for $700 easily (Those are $1.2k+ where I am typically). Work is equally dependant, as it depends on shop's labor rate + labor put in.
Even arguments about warranty come down to what you have access to and local policies vs. vendor policies, so it's something you'll have to put the time into finding this out for yourself.
Even arguments about warranty come down to what you have access to and local policies vs. vendor policies, so it's something you'll have to put the time into finding this out for yourself.
After 100-hours on the track driving in extreme anger, it really makes sense to build a forged bottom end and worth SS valves if its a track car. This way you can set it and forget it...at 300whp. Also, do a VVT swap, it's worth it.
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01-05-2012, 08:57 AM
#37
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I'd say 225-250rwtq is a good ballpark figure, for ALL model years.
I'm not smart enough to know how much clyinder pressures and RPMs come into play, like winding a lack-luster rotrex up to 300rwhp on a stock 1.6L could peak out at a mere 200rwtq.
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01-06-2012, 04:12 AM
#38
You'll love this. I just scored a VVT engine for $450, I paid $700 for a wrecked 99 swap car, and I paid $1700 for machine work on the 99 engine for my track car, $300 in labor on a valve job recently.
After 100-hours on the track driving in extreme anger, it really makes sense to build a forged bottom end and worth SS valves if its a track car. This way you can set it and forget it...at 300whp. Also, do a VVT swap, it's worth it.
After 100-hours on the track driving in extreme anger, it really makes sense to build a forged bottom end and worth SS valves if its a track car. This way you can set it and forget it...at 300whp. Also, do a VVT swap, it's worth it.
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01-06-2012, 06:59 PM
#39
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So I am putting a deposit down on this motor today...
1.8L 99head
-99 Intake manifold
-M Tuned H beam Rods
-Supertech 84mm 9:1 pistons
-Boundry engineering oil pump gear
-Less than 2000 mile since built and compression numbers are within 2% of each other.
-ARP main and head studs
-new bosch water pump
-gates timing belt kit
-all oil seals replaced
Approve/Disapprove?
1.8L 99head
-99 Intake manifold
-M Tuned H beam Rods
-Supertech 84mm 9:1 pistons
-Boundry engineering oil pump gear
-Less than 2000 mile since built and compression numbers are within 2% of each other.
-ARP main and head studs
-new bosch water pump
-gates timing belt kit
-all oil seals replaced
Approve/Disapprove?
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