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Old 02-18-2008, 05:02 PM   #1
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Default TII swap questions

I posted this over on m.net but have gotten no response. I'm doing a TII swap in my miata and have been following crash's site, but I am confused about what to do with the throwout bearing/clutch fork/slave cylinder bit. How do I accomodate the extra 1/2" from the plate?
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:08 PM   #2
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I welded a ring onto the release bearing. Most hated the way I did it, but it worked on my setup. Too bad I sold it when I got rid of my 1990 Miata!
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:15 PM   #3
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release = throwout?
I'd modify the fork. I think that'd be the simple solution since it's. I extended my slave rod after seeing the length of B2000 rod with my trans mod/swap - but that doesn't take into consideration the lever arrangement and probably has increased pedal effort and stress on components. That said, nothing has failed with over 1k miles on it.
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
release = throwout?
I'd modify the fork. I think that'd be the simple solution since it's. I extended my slave rod after seeing the length of B2000 rod with my trans mod/swap - but that doesn't take into consideration the lever arrangement and probably has increased pedal effort and stress on components. That said, nothing has failed with over 1k miles on it.
so if I more or less "block" out the fork a 1/2" that is all i would have to do? Or would I still need to shorten the slave cylinder 1/2".

mscupcar, was lengthening the slave the only thing you did? That seems much easier to me

I should have posted here first, 2 great responses in about 15 min
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Old 02-18-2008, 06:46 PM   #5
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that's all I did, but y8s just replied in another thread that he thinks he killed is twin disk setup by overstroking the diaphragm springs. That might be more of an issue with the tiny (relatively speaking) springs on the twin disk. If you're pedal is adjusted in the middle and the line free of air, I don't see why you can't lengthen the rod until the t/o bearing is just in front of the springs. The B2000 rod was about 40% longer than the Miata's. I'm using a B2000 bellhousing on a Miata center section as an interim solution for my engine swap. I've got the B2000 t/o bearing, fork, slave rod and a Miata slave. Just took some time to get the rod the right length.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:46 PM   #6
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excellent, if I have any more questions I'll be sure to check here first, thanks again
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:50 PM   #7
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Is there a company other than Mazsport that offers custom TII axles for the miata? I'm not really looking to go the modified hub route. I know Racing Mazda used to...
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:25 PM   #8
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I just got this from a friend (sent to him) and found it interesting. It's a perfect solution IMO.

...I swapped the TII rear into a 93 miata a few years ago. The hardest part was getting/making correct halfshafts. In the end I was able to get ones made from off the shelf parts by raxles.com in Gainsville, Florida. He used 323GTX outer joints with a shaft from some mitsubishi(sorry don't remember the model) then with TII inners. I think it was ~$400 for the two axles. They just slid right into place perfectly with no problems. Thought the info might be helpful to someone else down the line.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:00 PM   #9
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hmmm raxles is a great company (used to have a DSM) I will have to give them a call. Mazsport wanted like 700 for a pair of axles.


Another question, can I use a miata throwout bearing, or do I need the rx-7 one? I have a brand new miata TOB, so I was just curious...
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:06 PM   #10
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My guess is it will have to be rx7 given the size of the input shaft sleeve. If it will, then you have to make sure the inner pp ring will span the "bore" on the pp diaphragm springs.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:13 AM   #11
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My guess is it will have to be rx7 given the size of the input shaft sleeve. If it will, then you have to make sure the inner pp ring will span the "bore" on the pp diaphragm springs.
That's what I thought too. Just wanted a second opinion. I'm bringing the car up to my buddy's garage (he's a master fabricator) to start work on the rear tranny mount and also for the foward mount for the TII diff mount. I'll let you know how I make out.
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:36 AM   #12
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Excellent - give this thread some pics on the trans and diff swap!
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I just got this from a friend (sent to him) and found it interesting. It's a perfect solution IMO.

...I swapped the TII rear into a 93 miata a few years ago. The hardest part was getting/making correct halfshafts. In the end I was able to get ones made from off the shelf parts by raxles.com in Gainsville, Florida. He used 323GTX outer joints with a shaft from some mitsubishi(sorry don't remember the model) then with TII inners. I think it was ~$400 for the two axles. They just slid right into place perfectly with no problems. Thought the info might be helpful to someone else down the line.
I know it is probobly a long shot, but is there any chance at all you could find out the part numbers and or lengths of the parts for me? I called Raxles and Marty said he remembers doing it and would be happy to do it again, but would need to know all the information again as he didn't hang onto it. Also, are the TII shafts the same length? If so, couldn't I just have him put on a miata outer joint to the TII axle?
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Excellent - give this thread some pics on the trans and diff swap!
I will do, I have a build thread over on m.net and clubroadster, but i can transfer some stuff to here too.
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:49 PM   #15
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I just uploaded my build thread over here, I got the TII tranny brackets all done, pics and a write up can be found here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...d=1#post235793
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:58 AM   #16
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bump from the dead, still looking for ideas on how to go about setting this up.
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:58 AM   #17
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MM- tried to convey the idea via illustration. Four image below are as follows:

1- stock orientation
2- adapter plate installed leaves 1/2" gap from Tob mating surface to pp spring
3- compensation made with fork mod to move Tob connection point 1/2" forward. This should put the stress at your point on the mod and keep everything else the same. How you approach this is up to you.
4- Slave rod extension. What I did for a similar result (for different reasons), but it definitely should increase stress on the system components, like the fork and pivot point.

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Old 08-05-2008, 11:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mighty mouse View Post
I should have posted here first, 2 great responses in about 15 min
That's why I learned to post technical questions here and ask which is the better air freshener over there.

BTW, did you know that hanging a "pine tree" air freshener on the mirror in an NC is considered a "mod"? It lets you have that "top down country driving experience" even in the city.
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:59 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
MM- tried to convey the idea via illustration. Four image below are as follows:

1- stock orientation
2- adapter plate installed leaves 1/2" gap from Tob mating surface to pp spring
3- compensation made with fork mod to move Tob connection point 1/2" forward. This should put the stress at your point on the mod and keep everything else the same. How you approach this is up to you.
4- Slave rod extension. What I did for a similar result (for different reasons), but it definitely should increase stress on the system components, like the fork and pivot point.
Thank you so much, that was just what I was looking for.
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:15 PM   #20
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Glad to help. I need to fly you down so you can put a TII driveline in my car now.

Fortunately for this forum, nobody is afraid to blast somebody for what they think is wrong. Whether are or not, it ultimately leads to the right answer(s).
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