time to sell/part out the miata
I thought I had things figured out a year ago. Daughter was starting to get a bit older, our finances were great, talked the wife out of ditching the miata, got it running again and boom...
Locked down and working from home for nearly 9 months, got the wife pregnant again and... yeah I don't see any realistic way that I'm going to be getting back to this hobby in the next million years.
I guess I'm looking for advice about how to go about this. Build as it stands:
Locked down and working from home for nearly 9 months, got the wife pregnant again and... yeah I don't see any realistic way that I'm going to be getting back to this hobby in the next million years.
I guess I'm looking for advice about how to go about this. Build as it stands:
- 97 Salvage title miata, Dark blue paint, black replacement top, tan leather interior
- Haven't driven it since January, was dialed in for 18 psi of boost with conservative AFR numbers. Needs a new AC Compressor, which is still sitting in the passenger seat.
- Hard dog double diagonal rollbar
- Has a new soft top that I installed a couple years ago, and I rebuilt the doors/windows to work like new again when I did it. Nothing leaks.
- engine
- 97 block
- 84.5mm wiseco pistons
- pauter x beam rods with ARP bolts
- blueprinted oil pump with billet gears from supermiata
- ARP main and head studs
- block bored and honed and align honed by good machine shop
- ATI superdamper
- 99 head
- supermiata double heavy spring
- otherwise stock
- flattop intake manifold w/ ARP intake studs
- blueprinted rx7 series 5 injectors (560cc ones)
- coolant reroute, 52mm radiator, AC still installed
- no power steering, is depowered manual
- oil catch can with check valves between intake and pcv
- 97 block
- FM front sway, stock rear
- XIDA GS coilovers
- rota slipstream looking wheels
- Turbo stuff
- JGS log manifold, ceramic coated
- T3/T04E 50 trim turbo, ceramic coated
- T3/T04B S trim turbo
- downpipe for same, bolts up to 5 bolt (mercedes pattern not ford)
- stainless 3" connects to DP with vband clamp
- intercooler is pretty big 18x12x3 IIRC
- FM blow off valve (the billet aluminum one)
- Interior
- 3 gauge pod for dash cowl (around factory gauge cluster)
- AEM wideband with LED gauge
- Autometer mech boost gauge
- Autometer EGT gauge
- Autometer oil temp gauge
- Autometer oil pressure gauge
- transmission is a 5 speed
- rear end is a GURU limited slip from Australia. They were pretty hot **** about 15-20 years ago, all billet construction, etc.
- Ecu is a 96-97 Link with a keypad.
- Car is currently set up for 18 psi with the T04E turbo
Last edited by AlwaysBroken; Oct 9, 2020 at 12:36 PM.
Part out will pretty much always beat selling whole in nominal dollars, it just comes down to time. Do you have the time/inclination to disassemble? To deal with multiple people buying multiple parts? To deal with whatever is left over when you give up?
You have a number of good parts/systems that could be sold, so I would think parting out would make the most sense money wise but would definitely be a hassle.
You have a number of good parts/systems that could be sold, so I would think parting out would make the most sense money wise but would definitely be a hassle.
^ what he said
Youll get more dollars out of parting out, but its easier to sell the car as a whole. You could sit on individual parts for months or longer.
I, personally, have very little patience for marketplace people so the fewer things to sell the better in my book.
Youll get more dollars out of parting out, but its easier to sell the car as a whole. You could sit on individual parts for months or longer.
I, personally, have very little patience for marketplace people so the fewer things to sell the better in my book.
I would hold out for a good price on the whole car. It's a hell of a lot of work to take the whole damn thing apart, then deal with idiots who don't want to pay a decent price, then shipping. Too much bullshit for me.
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