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Old 10-09-2009, 05:07 PM   #61
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dude....you picked the perfect platform to build a race car out of:

1. Responsive
2. Dependable
3. Easy to mod
4. Cheap to replace

AND you made it as dependable as possible. Now you are just trying to eliminate statistics...which will never happen.

Enjoy it and don't worry...or it'll just hurt worse when something does happen.
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:12 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
Me for one. I've got 23K miles on the car in the since going turbo. I've done 10-12 track days. 4 of those were at a track 2 1/2 hours away with 3+ hours of track time each day. Every track day I drove the Miata there and back, no trailer, with the r-comps wedged into the trunk opening.

94 with stock motor, stock 5 spd, stock torsen, way heavier than stock, Corrado rotor upgrade, S4 with 2860 running 12psi, dyno'd lots of tuning ago at 241 on a mustang. Other that loose turbo studs and letting brakes go metal to metal I've had no issues. GPS datalogging has steady state cornering at 1.3 g's on my r-comps. No knocksense, no egt gauge.

Have never been stranded. Could I have broken something? Certainly. Rod through the block, torsen salad, tranny gears. What's important is nothing has happened and you have all the right stuff upgraded. If I had your set up I'd be fearless.

I always figured if something bad happened, odds were pretty good someone would volunteer to help out, putting my car on their trailer to bring home. I've seen this happen quite a few times. You've gotta be a real ***** for other guys not to help out if they can. Maybe that helpful attitude is an Oregonian thing.

The only cure I can suggest is Paxil, Zoloft or Prozac. You might also want to check out this website...

Paranoia: Cause, Symptoms, Treatment and Cure of Paranoia
,
Thanks, this is what I needed to hear...I guess it can be done. I had such a bad experience with VW and audi that I'm paranoid for good reason.

Oh ****, I have real paranoia. I just kind of decided last night that I should not expect my car to make it home from TWS and stayed home.
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:43 PM   #63
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I just kind of decided last night that I should not expect my car to make it home from TWS and stayed home.
=no refund of the $350 track day around the NE. A brothuh's too poor for that ****.

Your baller built and v-banded **** big time VW/Audi. I've had 4 A1's, the fundamental design didn't change much for a long time, and is probably close to what you were running in a corrado. The miata is a much better fundamental design, and the execution is in another league, especially the way you've built it. Enjoy **** out of it. Run low boost, it's all you can really do to save the wear and tear. Your times will come down when you feel that you can DRIVE it, which you can, imho.
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:44 PM   #64
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If fear of annihilating the differential or transmission due to overheating of the lubricant is really that big a deal, I can't imagine it would be terribly difficult to rig up oil coolers for both.

The factory has already provided you with convenient ports to use for getting the fluid in and out. Just need to find the right mating connectors. Hint: plumb in reverse- draw fluid out the top hole, return it to the bottom hole. This will prevent (or at least delay) fluid loss should you pop a hose. Overfill the system slightly, and away you go.

You can buy electric pumps rated for use with hot oil- the M/C turbo guys use 'em a lot. Example: Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps
Werd. I was about to respond with the same info more or less.

To answer the question about why the transmission and differential get hot, it is due to the inherent inefficiency in any mechanical system. The transmission and diff have mechanical friction, among other things, that rob power, which is manifested in the form of heat.

In fact, the typical rules of thumb are that powertrain losses are between 10-20% from the flywheel to the tires. Most of that is being lost as heat in the trans and diff. That is why they get hot. So say a Turbo 1.8 engine has 250 BHP, and there is 15% drivetrain loss. That means the trans and diff are creating somewhere around 28 KW of heat. To put it in perspective, that is like 28 hairdryers, or 280 lightbulbs (@ 100W each). No wonder they get hot.

As far as the need for cooling, I cannot answer that. However based on what I am reading on Ford IRS differentials, even the aluminum housing one like I have in the LS1 Miata, diff coolers are almost a given at the track for long sessions. The easy way to go seems to be with the electric pump based DYI setup. I have seen some stupid high prices on turn-key mechanical-pump-based kits, like several thousand dollars.

The only way to know for sure is to install an oil temp gauge in the trans and diff, and hit the track. Easy to do with $100 and some elbow grease. I am thinking about it myself.


On the other discussion... Get a daily driver, and a car trailer. Once you start doing track days/racing, a dedicated vehicle and a way to haul it is pretty much the way to go for all the reasons mentioned. In the mean time, get an AAA card, seriously.
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:45 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
,
Thanks, this is what I needed to hear...I guess it can be done. I had such a bad experience with VW and audi that I'm paranoid for good reason.

Oh ****, I have real paranoia. I just kind of decided last night that I should not expect my car to make it home from TWS and stayed home.

You can add to that a whole lot of other guys here. Sure people break stuff and have been stranded but what percentage is that out of total users and total track time?

Tracking late model VW's and Audi's would make anyone paranoid. That crap breaks when modded and pushed hard. Of course my wife just bought an 09 TT coupe! Wait. Is that paranoia tapping on my shoulder?

Last edited by cueball1; 10-09-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:55 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
Grow a pair, how come Sav dosen't seem to have a problem?
+1, dude you need therapy. I just ran my car at Spa today for hours. Needs fuel a few times a day, that is it. Oh, and brake pads I seem to vaporize XP12s in two half day events, of which one was wet.

Download tech.pdf from Emilio with your pre-track-day checks and live by it. Add your own stuff.

During the winter I have some larger overhauls planned, like the torsen swap, brake cooling, and will fix anything broken.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:00 PM   #67
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I'm also looking for a pad that lasts longer than XP12's, but I doubt i'll find it at this level. Maybe DTC-60's.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:16 PM   #68
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I annihilated my pads with my stock calipers in 3 laps at thunder hill! and almost hit a nice porsche thats when I got the big brake kit, love it pads last about 4-6 track days depending on the track. they are much beefyer than the stockers.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:18 PM   #69
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I'm also looking for a pad that lasts longer than XP12's, but I doubt i'll find it at this level. Maybe DTC-60's.
Yeah. It makes me laugh when people recommend pads that are rotor friendly. With most guys here running $25 napa rotors, with pads at $140 who cares if they are rotor friendly. I'd rather wear out rotors every couple of track days and have pads last all year than the other way around. Only if you are running high end rotors could I understand the desire to save them.

I've heard lots of good duralility statements about Porterfields but haven't run them. I've been OK on Carbotechs and the track I've been running at lately isn't that hard on brakes.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:20 PM   #70
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I'm trying old-school Hawk blue on the front until I get my BBK, going to run DTC-30 in the rear. I'd like to run the xp12's again if I can get more than 2-days on them. However, with the quick-change awesomeness, I'll run a racepad up front and swap for streeters when I put the street rubber back on.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:21 PM   #71
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As for reliability, I guess I'll just drive this ****** until it blows-up, then leave it, and start over when I get home. I've put so much heart into it, what else can I do? I guess I can either put AC back in and make it a daily and always wish I were man enough to track it, or love and lose.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:10 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
Tracking late model VW's and Audi's would make anyone paranoid. That crap breaks when modded and pushed hard. Of course my wife just bought an 09 TT coupe! Wait. Is that paranoia tapping on my shoulder?

No, it's the partsman from the dealership, needing you to pay your bill for that DSG electro-hydraulic thingymabob.


As a driver with an A1 VW (that is presently down), I feel the OP's pain. As a result, I have yet to take this pickup out to the SCCA to show that it can indeed really handle, mostly because it has not always been as reliable as my GTI. When I get the GTI up and running, I will take it out for sure, everything on it is new! But when I get the Miata running, I will take it easy. It has sat for nearly 4 years, no telling what will rattle loose. Small steps, that is my suggestion. Drive the car with mechanical sympathy, and push a little at a time. That's all you would do to a GF/Wife, if you -really- loved her, right?

G/L
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:05 PM   #73
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As a driver with an A1 VW (that is presently down), I feel the OP's pain. It has not always been as reliable as my GTI. When I get the GTI up and running, I will take it out for sure.
Let's see. The VW A1 isn't running and isn't as reliable as the GTI that ALSO isn't running. Hmmm. I'm sensing a theme here...


That DSG thingymabobber is pretty friggin amazing. I'm hoping it holds together. At least we have 4 years and 50K miles before she'll need to sell it.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:11 PM   #74
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Let's see. The VW A1 isn't running and isn't as reliable as the GTI that ALSO isn't running. Hmmm. I'm sensing a theme here...


Indeed. The GTI is being rebuilt, and the pickup is being rebuilt... One ******* part at a time...
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:33 PM   #75
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I think this is a little flipped around.

If you can't afford to wad the car up and walk away from it, you shouldn't take it on the track.

A Miata without a turbo is a reliable, easy track car. Brakes, fluid, rollbar and you're there.

A Miata with a turbo is a moneypit for the track. A Miata with a turbo with a poor owner is something you should be afraid to take to the track.

I've been in a car that hit the wall. If you can't throw the car away and walk away... use a different car. Drive the turbo car everywhere and put your NA car on the track.

Less fun? Maybe. It will give you peace of mind, a more full wallet and make you a better driver though.

Look at all the shiney things you put on the car. Imagine them all crumpled up. A rollover will starve an engine and lock it up. A front crash will kill your suspension, radiator, maybe your turbo, manifold... could go on. Just look at all the time and money you put into the car and imagine having to walk away from it crushed and crumpled.

Cheap track car is a good idea.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:42 PM   #76
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Oh, and two more things:
1. Don't dolly. It's ghetto, and it WILL destroy your trans.
Not to go off topic too much, but how is this true?
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:54 PM   #77
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You know what hustlers problem is? He just got of the sauce and his testosterone is super low so he's a little bitch now. All he does is ethug everyone cause deep down inside he's a vagina and the Internet is te only way he can pretend he's a man
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:55 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
The easy way to go seems to be with the electric pump based DYI setup. I have seen some stupid high prices on turn-key mechanical-pump-based kits, like several thousand dollars.
Actually, the more I think about it, the more I am liking the power-steering pump idea, which seemed frivolous at the time.

One option would be to mount it in the stock location, if you have the space, and runs lines back to the trans. It won't be creating much load on the engine as it won't be pumping against a restriction.

Another, and I'm totally serious, would be to mount a driving pulley for it on either the propshaft or the axles. On the propshaft could be done by sliding it over from the transmission side, and securing it with the four bolts that hold the shaft to the diff. On the axles would be similar, assuming you have two-piece axles. This is actually how a lot of big-money guys (like NASCAR) do it.

Or this: Pegasus - Oil/Water Cooler Pump, 12volt 2 gpm
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:58 PM   #79
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The ghetto part, or the destroy trans part? The trans relies on the input shaft spinning for some of it's oiling. The input shaft will not spin/not spin at a reasonable speed if the car is coasting along in neutral. Is this a wive's tale? Are you willing to find out? Plus, most dollies aren't low enough to tow a lowered miata well. And the rear will probably drag. I have a good sized dolly and a deck over axle 24' trailer at my immediate disposal, and a 09 Silverado. I drive my miata to the track for a reason.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:01 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by miataspeed2005 View Post
You know what hustlers problem is? He just got of the sauce and his testosterone is super low so he's a little bitch now. All he does is ethug everyone cause deep down inside he's a vagina and the Internet is te only way he can pretend he's a man
Maybe you haven't noticed, but he's not even doing much ethugging lately. It's like we've all lost a family member.
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