WASHINGTON Miata Turbo Folk
#84
Yep, they seem pretty well made, a little heavy. I had to modify the rear floor mount point to get the bolt to line up, but otherwise no issues. I need to pick up a roll bar here soon. I wanted a BBFW, but I might just go to 425 and have them do it, it costs about the same and there's no shipping and it's fitted to me. I went with status racing 6 points, pics in my build thread. I like them, they fit great and the wider 3 inch ones are more comfortable to me.
#88
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I have a piece of 3/16 flat bar bolted across the two seat brackets that i mounted the sub straps in the right place. Right now i have eyelets there but i will switch those out for flat anchor points so i can drop both seats even lower. If you do it this way make sure to use good hardware none of the cheap Chinese junk. The sub straps are hard to bolt to the floor in the correct spot because of the frame rail braces i have.
#89
Yeah, Schroth is definitely a solid option. 425 showed me a piece for the sub belt, it's essentially just a steel plate with a hole and a bolt welded to it, drill through the floor pan, it mounts on the underside, belt mounting bolts screws into it. My initial thought on seeing it was that it was a weld in application, but apparently not. If I had more funds I would have had the cage extend and provide mounting points for everything, so it was all contained. As it is, I'll probably find somebody to weld a nut to a steel plate for 10 bucks and do it like the piece 425 showed me.
Edit: oh damn, I didn't even consider the frame rail there, it runs almost right under the middle of my seat. Might have to run a plate between the two mounts as well.
Edit: oh damn, I didn't even consider the frame rail there, it runs almost right under the middle of my seat. Might have to run a plate between the two mounts as well.
#90
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Yeah, Schroth is definitely a solid option. 425 showed me a piece for the sub belt, it's essentially just a steel plate with a hole and a bolt welded to it, drill through the floor pan, it mounts on the underside, belt mounting bolts screws into it. My initial thought on seeing it was that it was a weld in application, but apparently not. If I had more funds I would have had the cage extend and provide mounting points for everything, so it was all contained. As it is, I'll probably find somebody to weld a nut to a steel plate for 10 bucks and do it like the piece 425 showed me.
Edit: oh damn, I didn't even consider the frame rail there, it runs almost right under the middle of my seat. Might have to run a plate between the two mounts as well.
Edit: oh damn, I didn't even consider the frame rail there, it runs almost right under the middle of my seat. Might have to run a plate between the two mounts as well.
so much this. I was planning to use the backer plates they sell until i started laying everything out and had to get creative.
#94
From what I've read it's just inherent to the light chassis, bracing should help. I don't remember having it before any braces, but I definitely don't now with the braces haha. That said, if you do have an unbalanced wheel, an off alignment, bad bearing, or a tire issue like a thin spot or uneven wear, those would definitely be things to fix and could eliminate the problem.
#96
Well the shake is worse around 60-70 mph, but I do get a slight tremor around 40 mph and up. The wheels are not RoadForce balanced, but I have some stretch on my tires, you think I could still get them balanced? I did notice an improvement with the hardtop and GS door bushings, so chassis rigidity is to an extent part of the proglem