Go to the Hunter page. They have a search function by zip. Most Les Schwab's have one.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4bce369391.jpg


If anyone is going super weight weenie and wants to remove their Frankenstein bolts/striker plate, but keep their trunk water tight, I have enough extra of these nylon bolts to do 5 more cars. I wet installed mine in with a little black rtv. Barely worth a trip to the post office, but hit me up if you're interested

Does anybody have an NA they're willing to drive over to meet me somewhere in the next day or so? I was just looking up a dash restoration and apparently USDM cars need an adapter to make a double din radio fit, but JDM cars don't. I've been testing my radio delete panels on my JDM car, and I need to ensure that they fit the USDM tombstone. There's a free radio delete panel in it for you.

Edit: Alternatively could someone measure the width and height of their radio opening? Mine is 7.125" wide by 4.75" tall

Edit: Ok, the difference appears to be a lip present on the JDM tombstones rather than a size difference, but mine is from Japan and doesn't have the lip, so now I'm confused as hell.

Maybe it already has a USDM tombstone? Idk I'm stumped myself

I'm assuming so, I had someone check and the measurements work out, it's just weird.

Does anybody have an oscilloscope I can borrow to diagnose a tach issue?

Hey all, picked up some used injectors and I was wondering if anybody recommended a local shop that can clean/test them? I think there's an Injector Doctor somewhat close but I'm open to suggestions.

Checking in from Tenino. I have a red '90 that's all stock for now.
I'm usually too busy working or racing on weekends to make any meets or C&C. But if anyone needs any welding or fabrication work, and is willing to drive south of Olympia, I'm happy to help a fellow board member.
If I ever get around to fabbing up the twin-scroll setup for my VF38, I'll start a build thread. Otherwise, I'll be focusing on replacing the stock suspension and upgraded brake and clutch lines and cooling system.
I also race a LS400 in LuckyDog, so I'll likely see some of you there.

ohhai. Seattle here, anyone else going out to the SCCA track night on JUL20? If my car's safety system is complete by then I will show up and try not to break it while out on track. :D

No but I was planning on going to the Ridge on the 25th.

There's a $900 '04 on CL right now...

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/c...636169931.html

900 is a steal for that car. By far the best deal I have seen locally.

if anyone knows of someone trying to get rid of a miata on trade for something silly -- my 1991 Eunos Cosmo (13b) project needs a home and Id rather trade it for a miata (and trade it to someone with severe mazda autism) rather than agonizingly trying to sell it on craiglist.

Hey guys, my car got backed into recently and I've been looking for a replacement passenger fender since it's toast. The passenger door got clipped but I think I can be fixed. I was wondering if I could get some help finding a red passenger fender, I've been hunting junkyards and Craigslist with no luck so I'd love any help I can get. Thanks!

How much of a project is it? I've always loved those cars.

Quick car stats:
36,xxx kms total, original chassis/body/engine, never been in an accident or fire/flood/etc.
Has only covered 6-7000 kms in the last 4-5 years, previous owner didnt drive it much. Reg'd and titled in WA now (King County tabs haaaaa $$$)
Finally have a certified copy of the original Japanese registration papers (and a handy translation), confirmed the odo is legit and the car was imported to Canada legally, then sold to a US buyer also legally.

Its complicated since I drove it 4000km across the US (Chicago to Seattle, only stopping to sleep) without a single problem other than an old and fraying alternator belt which was easily changed once I arrived home in Seattle.

The second I got it home to Seattle it started acting up, slow starting when cold or warm or even hot, prone to flooding the longer it sits turned off.
Had it looked over, compression tested, etc at Jerrys Mazda Shop in Kent (hes been a rotary race engineer and mazda-specific mechanic for decades). Condition of most parts looks good, nothing leaking or broken, no codes, compression test was good according to Jerry. Did all belts preventatively, new water pump, swapped to an FD alternator, checked plugs and had to change the two that were fuel-soaked.

Its sitting in a secret parking garage for the summer while I try to figure out the fueling problem. Current untested hypotheses:
1) Stuck open injector(s) allowing fuel to just dump into the housings, but preliminary inspection of injectors looked OK...
2) Fuel pump operating poorly due to gas tank corrosion or other mechanical/age problem ??? Almost all parts on the car are original, low miles but obviously old age-wise.
3) Fuel pump resistor pack/relay control nonsense broken, general fuel pump wiring or similar electrical fault
4) ECU wiring possibly corroded or failing, sometimes known to happen on JC cosmos living in Australia/NZ

Im just too frustrated and shitty at pretending to be a rotary mechanic, Id rather wrench on the miata for the time being.

What are you trying to get for it? I've got my RHD miata which is currently very disassembled in my garage installing supporting parts for a rotrex install.

​​​​​​Anybody have a spare fender they don't need anymore? 🤞

My bad man, I was asking about the Cosmo.
I'd try pulling the fender and pushing that out, doesn't look like any of the dent is creased in, it would probably come out pretty clean with some paint touch up.