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Old 06-15-2009, 08:21 AM   #141
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You tried M1, what weight? M1 tends to be thin.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:24 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that
You don't like the Rotella Synth because its too thick for your shitty lifters. You need to run 0w40 M1 because its super thin at start-up and holds its viscosity well based upon UOA data. It also has a nice additive pack. Rotella is 15w40 and it holds viscosity well at 250*, so if you think that's too thin then you need to run top fuel dragster oil because its not going to get much thicker.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:28 AM   #143
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Originally Posted by soflarick View Post
After reading through some of this thread, here's my take on the subject, IMHO.

Diesel oil offers more antiwear/antifriction additives, and more detergents, but if your engine is letting oil past the rings and/or valve seals, the extra additives may clog the catalytic converter. I used to run a quart of Amsoil diesel oil with the Amsoil 10w30 in the crankcase of my super/now turbo'd Miata, that has seen open track weekends.

Rotella is supposed to be pretty good oil, esp for the price, but I've never used it. Redline IMO is good oil. Royal Purple is a short term oil, shears too quickly. M1 used to be Group 4 base stock, now it's Group 3 from what I've read.

I run Amsoil 10w30 or 10w40 in my engine, GL5 gear oil in my 6 speed, and 75w90 Severe Gear in my differential. The car was supercharged when it was running open track weekends down here in sweltering South Florida. The heat down here is definitely going to test a lubricant. I found the Amoil engine oil to function better in my engine than the M1 I used to run. Purely layperson, subjective analysis, as I didn't do a UOA, but the Amsoil had the engine running quieter, startup was quieter, the color stayed clean longer, it didn't burn off as quickly, and the temp gauge reflected a cooler operating temp, compared to the M1 10w30 I used to run. I have forged pistons in the engine, and the cold startup difference was night and day between the Amsoil and M1, even after several thousand miles on the Amsoil.

As for oil filters, Wix/Purolator, M1, Amsoil are what I'd run. Wix/Purolator are great bang for the buck, M1 is good, but costs me the same as Amsoil, and the Amsoil oil filter is still better.

I became an Amsoil dealer because I was buying enough product I figured I might as well sign up for the best deals on the stuff.
I was under the impression that ZDDP was lessened a bit recently through an EPA mandate.

Redline recently pulled a ton of the good additives out of their 10w30 and not the other weights/viscosities most likely for the EPA. Mobile 1 did the same a few years ago.

I've learned to ignore group designation in base stocks. Look at the performance #'s from used UOA's compared between particularly HDEO GIII synthetics and dino oil compared to expensive GIV's and you'll agree.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:35 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that


Hmm, I just put in the synthetic along with an Integra Oil filter. I like the results so far. Engine seems quiter and oil pressure is higher. And the oil seems to be staying cleaner looking longer then the mobil 1 ever did.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:41 AM   #145
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The engine runs smooth and quiet because of the molasses thick oil you ran. The Miata engine's not designed to run 15w40 oil. You're making everything work harder to pump that oil.

Last edited by levnubhin; 06-15-2009 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:14 AM   #146
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Originally Posted by soflarick View Post
The engine runs smooth and quiet because of the molasses thick oil you ran. The Miata engine's not designed to run 15w40 oil. You're making everything work harder to pump that oil.
I'm going to switch back to 5w30 Rotella if and when I get oil temp under control.
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:16 PM   #147
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Either way, the 15-40 non synth ran smoother and quieter than the 5-40 synthetic for half the cost. At the oil change (~3500 miles) the oil still looked pretty damn good compared to other oils I've used. I will see how this oil looks after the same mileage and then decide. As of right now though, I like the non synthetic more. It's also not "molasses thick" as you would think. Compared to a lot of other oils, even at 15-40 it sloshes around like it would be much thinner. Some of the straight 50 I used to run was molasses thick, or even 20-50, but this stuff isn't even in the ballpark.
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:31 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by soflarick View Post
The engine runs smooth and quiet because of the molasses thick oil you ran. The Miata engine's not designed to run 15w40 oil. You're making everything work harder to pump that oil.



If it were to thick wouldn't oil pressure go down because it couldn't pump it?
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:52 PM   #149
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Just tried Rotella Syn 5w-40 for the first time 2 weeks ago and could'nt be happier!! Rotella / Wix FTW! Definitly a step up from the Mobile1 5w-30......no lifter tick/higher cold and warm oil psi/etc

0606092223.jpg?t=1245102512

0607091320.jpg?t=1245102637


PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!

Last edited by Cspence; 06-15-2009 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:41 AM   #150
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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
If it were to thick wouldn't oil pressure go down because it couldn't pump it?
No because I believe oil is too thick to cavitate in this service, but it puts a lot more heat into the oil to pump it.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:00 AM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that
just curious which weight synthetic you put in of the Rotella?
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:01 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by Cspence View Post
Just tried Rotella Syn 5w-40 for the first time 2 weeks ago and could'nt be happier!! Rotella / Wix FTW! Definitly a step up from the Mobile1 5w-30......no lifter tick/higher cold and warm oil psi/etc






PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!
What's the part # on that Wix?
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:06 AM   #153
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just curious which weight synthetic you put in of the Rotella?
They only make 5-40 from what I can tell. The non synth is 15-40.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:18 AM   #154
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They only make 5-40 from what I can tell. The non synth is 15-40.
You are right, brain got a bit boggled up reading all these different numbers!
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:20 AM   #155
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I'm still not as pleased with the synthetic though. With the non synthetic, I had no HLA noise ever, maybe 1/2 second on cold start, but after that, nothing. I have new HLA's too, so I shouldn't be having noise issues on a fresh rebuild and new oil. If I go back to the non synthetic and it goes away I will be sure.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:27 AM   #156
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
I'm still not as pleased with the synthetic though. With the non synthetic, I had no HLA noise ever, maybe 1/2 second on cold start, but after that, nothing. I have new HLA's too, so I shouldn't be having noise issues on a fresh rebuild and new oil. If I go back to the non synthetic and it goes away I will be sure.
Did you do a proper break in cycle?
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:07 AM   #157
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No because I believe oil is too thick to cavitate in this service, but it puts a lot more heat into the oil to pump it.

Wouldn't this only be the case for the first few minutes after starting? As the oil gets extra heat put in from the oil pump working harder it should start thinning the oil sooner and help with oil warm-up to a certain degree?

If the oil indeed were to thick, shouldn't pressure go up instead? Just like the first start with cold oil, the pressure is way higher than after driving half an hour when the oil is warmed up and it's noticably thinner.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:26 AM   #158
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Wouldn't this only be the case for the first few minutes after starting? As the oil gets extra heat put in from the oil pump working harder it should start thinning the oil sooner and help with oil warm-up to a certain degree?

If the oil indeed were to thick, shouldn't pressure go up instead? Just like the first start with cold oil, the pressure is way higher than after driving half an hour when the oil is warmed up and it's noticably thinner.
The trade-off of heat vs. pressure wins because modern oils hold their weight and viscosity over a dramatic temp-range.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:31 AM   #159
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Now...I'd love to get my hands on that Canadian 0w30 Rotella dino I just discovered. I want to go thinner when I get my oil cooler working properly.
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:46 PM   #160
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Did you do a proper break in cycle?
Of what do you speak? If you mean breaking in with dino oil, then yes. Ran dino the first 4-5k miles. I was just so amazed with the dino Rotella. Even after 3500 miles on it, it was still oil like, not watery and black like some other oils I have used. Looked like a lot of oils at only 500-1000 miles. I will see how this synthetic looks when the time comes, which I hope hurries up, I don't like it.
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