What are the First four things you would do after buying a STOCK MSM?
Just bought the car last week. Everything works well. It has 140k on it. Funds are somewhat limited. I'd like the car to Not blow up. I'd like to get rid of the turbo lag.
With that said what are the first things you would do to a stock MSM?
With that said what are the first things you would do to a stock MSM?
This doesn't help... does that mean you have $200 or $2000 to spend?
Answer also depends on your ability to wrench... do you need to buy "kit" stuff that's easy to install and comes with directions, or can you make stuff yourself?
Provide more info.
Answer also depends on your ability to wrench... do you need to buy "kit" stuff that's easy to install and comes with directions, or can you make stuff yourself?
Provide more info.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
1: Sell it for more than it's really worth, as is the custom.
2: Buy a stock, non-CA '99.
3: Swap the suspension and wheels/tires from my '90 onto it.
4: Add turbo.
5: Use remaining money to purchase good scotch.
Welcome aboard.
2: Buy a stock, non-CA '99.
3: Swap the suspension and wheels/tires from my '90 onto it.
4: Add turbo.
5: Use remaining money to purchase good scotch.
Welcome aboard.
5) Built motor
6) Artech EFR setup
7) **** bitches
8) get money
Like this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ch-ms2e-72424/
6) Artech EFR setup
7) **** bitches
8) get money
Like this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ch-ms2e-72424/
I can wrench. I don't like to wrench but yes, I have a garage and an awesome set of tools. Guess I prefer the easy stuff that comes with directions.
Thinking mega squirt. But I want to do stuff that is going to make an actual difference in level or consistency of power.
Let's put a cap at $2000. I'd rather spend less than $1000. Keep in mind that I have to buy tires / wheels etc. Let's leave wheels and suspension out of this equation for now.
I can wrench. I don't like to wrench but yes, I have a garage and an awesome set of tools. Guess I prefer the easy stuff that comes with directions.
Thinking mega squirt. But I want to do stuff that is going to make an actual difference in level or consistency of power.
I can wrench. I don't like to wrench but yes, I have a garage and an awesome set of tools. Guess I prefer the easy stuff that comes with directions.
Thinking mega squirt. But I want to do stuff that is going to make an actual difference in level or consistency of power.
Let's put a cap at $2000. I'd rather spend less than $1000. Keep in mind that I have to buy tires / wheels etc. Let's leave wheels and suspension out of this equation for now.
I can wrench. I don't like to wrench but yes, I have a garage and an awesome set of tools. Guess I prefer the easy stuff that comes with directions.
Thinking mega squirt. But I want to do stuff that is going to make an actual difference in level or consistency of power.
I can wrench. I don't like to wrench but yes, I have a garage and an awesome set of tools. Guess I prefer the easy stuff that comes with directions.
Thinking mega squirt. But I want to do stuff that is going to make an actual difference in level or consistency of power.
That's what a standalone will do for you. It's hard to describe just how bad the factory ECU is without you being able to drive a factory and a standalone equipped car back to back. With Megasquirt, you'll smooth out the powerband, make more power, keep the power SAFE, you'll be able to exceed 45mph in second gear, and your sex life will improve dramatically.
Long story short: The longer you keep the factory ECU in there, the greater your chance of spontaneously contracting AIDS.
A standalone will probably net you something like 30whp/30wtq across the midrange from 3k-5.5k where the stock ECU is busy choking the system which is the "lag" you notice. The stock turbo does not have lag because it is tiny.
EDIT: If/when you buy new wheels/tires make sure you get 15" wheels that are light. That will also make a huge difference in how the car handles, accelerates, rides (comfortable). The stock wheels are boat anchors.
EDIT: If/when you buy new wheels/tires make sure you get 15" wheels that are light. That will also make a huge difference in how the car handles, accelerates, rides (comfortable). The stock wheels are boat anchors.
Bear in mind this is with NO other changes. Standalone/intake/exhaust/boost controller should net you a safe and reasonably fun 200-220whp.
Maintenance- Of course. Which fluid do you recommend for the transmission? Any write ups on how to change that fluid?
Don't know what you mean by MS.
Good info. Does the type matter very much? There are Major price differences. Which one do you recommend and why?
First thing I did was take the 15's off my other Miata and put them on the MSM. (I'm selling my 03 with the MSM wheels)
And that is where I want to be.
Don't know what you mean by MS.
A standalone will probably net you something like 30whp/30wtq across the midrange from 3k-5.5k where the stock ECU is busy choking the system which is the "lag" you notice. The stock turbo does not have lag because it is tiny.
EDIT: If/when you buy new wheels/tires make sure you get 15" wheels that are light. That will also make a huge difference in how the car handles, accelerates, rides (comfortable). The stock wheels are boat anchors.
EDIT: If/when you buy new wheels/tires make sure you get 15" wheels that are light. That will also make a huge difference in how the car handles, accelerates, rides (comfortable). The stock wheels are boat anchors.
First thing I did was take the 15's off my other Miata and put them on the MSM. (I'm selling my 03 with the MSM wheels)
ms = megasquirt
for trans fluid I like motorcraft and amsoil
also you should do way more than just fluids: tb, wp, etc etc etc.
start doing your homework. we won't spoon feed you much longer.
for trans fluid I like motorcraft and amsoil
also you should do way more than just fluids: tb, wp, etc etc etc.
start doing your homework. we won't spoon feed you much longer.
Megasquirt for two reasons: 1. It is cheaper with all of the same functionality (Get it built by reverant). 2. The support for it on this forum is absolutely unreal and it will allow you to learn to tune by yourself which is rewarding and much cheaper then taking it to a shop who might **** it up.
Bought my car and it already had all the bolt ons available for it. (begi tb inlet pipe, cold air intake box, fmic, fm catless downpipe, exhaust, turbosmart bov, mbc, coilovers)
0. Maintenance/fluid change/tires
1. Hydra (stupid me i guess)
2. 949racing twin disk organic
3. Koyo 55mm
4. FM shroud and spal fan setup (stage 2?)
It provided me fun for 2 years. Now its getting big boy sized turbo kit and a built engine.
0. Maintenance/fluid change/tires
1. Hydra (stupid me i guess)
2. 949racing twin disk organic
3. Koyo 55mm
4. FM shroud and spal fan setup (stage 2?)
It provided me fun for 2 years. Now its getting big boy sized turbo kit and a built engine.
A $2000 budget?
1. Maintenance
2. MS2E
3. Joemazda585 intake
4. Downpipe
5. Exhaust
6. Intercooler
7. Injectors
That will let you get the max out if the stock turbo. The rest is up to your particular goals in other areas.
1. Maintenance
2. MS2E
3. Joemazda585 intake
4. Downpipe
5. Exhaust
6. Intercooler
7. Injectors
That will let you get the max out if the stock turbo. The rest is up to your particular goals in other areas.







