this is why MY crankcase was pressurized

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07-11-2007, 12:37 PM

#21

Newbsauce

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MiazdaBLUE

^ that is what I was thinking. The stock rods are actually surprisingly beefy and a really good design.

I'd like to know who has had rod failures and if so, at what point. What psi, what engine mangement( if any)

One of things I seem to remember (correct me if I'm off) is alot of people claimed the stock rods were good to around 20psi? I'm not sure the HP level necessarily. Might as well build a bulletproof bottom and deal w/ a head later. Thats exactly what I'm doing. I think a full bottom end (parts) was 740 w/ HGasket and ARP studs. See my "Seller Review" of raceeng.com

07-11-2007, 03:22 PM

#22

MiazdaBLUE

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Splitime

So does the car have a dual feed fuel rail or a coolant reroute?

nope I'm investing in a dffr as we speak. Should be shipped here shortly. I don't want to do the DIY b/c I'm afraid i'll tap it wrong and it will leak. However it is a super good idea!!!

How might I go about a collant reroute?

07-11-2007, 03:30 PM

#23

Braineack

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if it leaks you'll know right away....35psi of fuel makes itself known.

07-11-2007, 03:50 PM

#24

hustler

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what do I need to do for my 99 motor's fuel rail, aside from use the 1.6 fpr?

07-11-2007, 08:51 PM

#25

magnamx-5

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you actualy dont need the 1.6 fpr persay you just need a fpr of some sort and a return port.

07-12-2007, 12:11 AM

#26

Snowsurfer03

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ouch!

+1 For stock internals with 200whp. Just do good EM and you should be fine. I know you baby it anyways so youll be alright.

07-12-2007, 09:34 AM

#27

m2cupcar

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

...I wanted to build this motor one time, and be confident that with a conservative tune at 250whp, I'll be able to get it home from the race track...

That's essentially the same reason I went with my swap- durability. You're engine should go a looooong time with minimized demand relative to the build strength.