miatamike

I haven't been taken any logs since upgraded to R53. But I did drive the car for well over an hour with multiple loads and it was easily within .5 volts wereas before it after 20 minutes or so it would fluctuate +/- 2volts or more. I can take a log and post it up probably on tuesday as i am going out of town. But If I can get the log on my phone I'll see if I can use the data cable to upload a log from my Droid.

Also I can't really give a good read out on driving as my car is now untuned under boost and my WBO2 is not calibrated; and its going to be to cold for me to want to do much outside this weekend anyway :-|

BTW: the logging for 2.7 is not very good, or I just can't figure out how to set the items I want to capture like Voltage.

miatamike

Short Log file Rename file to .RDF the forum wouldn't take that file type

John Dollison

Mike, I'm eagerly awaiting more posts from you, since I have similar hot-restart issues with my '99 Miata.

The previous owner added the FM turbo kit with Hydra 2.5 about 4 years ago. I bought the car 2 years ago and the EBC worked, but the car frequently stalled at red lights, especially when the AC was on; and the car often overheated on hot summer days; plus some other little problems.

Jeremy convinced me that I needed the 2.6 upgrade, which was just a waste of cash. The upgrade promptly killed my EBC and fixed nothing. Jeremy sent me a MBC to replace the EBC, which has worked well. He also raised my idle to 1200 to eliminate the stalling issues, and put in the high-speed SPAL fans to reduce overheating.

Since then I've had hot-restart issues; for example, after a 20-minute highway drive, if I stop the car for less then 10 minutes, then try to restart the car, it just cranks over without starting, sometimes as though there's no fuel (even though I have a fuel gauge attached which always reads about 55 psi); sometimes it goes "clunk" and the engine stops hard, like detonation at the wrong time, driving the crankshaft in the wrong direction; but most often gunshot-loud bangs out the tailpipe. Jeremy has sent modified maps and suggested various map/calibration changes that haven't helped. I also tried recalibrating my O2 sensor, but the values came out the same as 2 years ago, when I put a new sensor in.

Jeremy suggests upgrading to 2.7, but I've heard about the battery regulation issues, and have heard nothing close to a guarantee that version 2.7 can fix a hot-restart issue, since no one seems to know what the root cause is to begin with. No one in the Colorado club has the 2.7, and I'm tired of being the guinea pig. So I'm at the point where I'd just as soon plunk an equivalent wad of cash down on a MegaSquirt, unless Jeremy / Andrew offer a darn good deal on the upgrade and some sort of good odds that it will actually fix something. Because the 2.6 sure didn't... fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, and I'll drive this @#$% car through... but I digress.

It's frustrating... I can't take the car to the track, because if I stall it on the track and can't get it restarted, it could literally be a life-threatening situation, for me or for the other drivers coming around the curves. And I can't even stop to pick up the dry-cleaning on the way home, because I'll be stuck there for 15 minutes waiting for the car to cool.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Sheesh...you guys are really making me glad I've managed to keep my old 2.17. Sure the a/c causes idle searching and stalling and the car occasionally stalls when coming to a stop if I put the clutch in at too high of RPMs (I've simply learned to heel-toe a quick blip of the throttle when coming to a stop) but other than that, the car runs fine. The long cold starts of the 2.17 is just a good way to build oil pressure before the engine starts anyway

miatamike

Sorry for the long delays in posts. I haven't been on the forum in a while. I can say a lot of the bugs have been worked out of the car. The car will now start every time (Except for that one time when the hose popped off to the fuel feed) Ooops!

The alternator issues have been resolved and the voltage is now steady without any spikes. Currently I'm working on various other issues with the cooling system.

The ECU will then be re-tuned and i will try and work out the EBC at that time and see how it does.

The drivability is fairly close to stock again for as modified as the car is.

Biggest draw back is that it takes like 1 hour to upgrade from firmware versions to the next. I do have to babysit the upgrade with a battery charger on to make sure I don't have to start over again.

DeerHunter

That's strange - my updates take around a minute. My laptop has a native serial port (unusual nowadays) and is running XP Pro. Perhaps your Serial/USB adaptor and/or operating system is creating a bottleneck.

I'm very pleased with 2.7. Starting is immeasurably better and the LTT (Long-term Trim) feature works exactly as advertised. It took several days of driving to dial it in, but my car has never been smoother and I never had to make a single manual adjustment.

If you're still having residual drivability issues, do a recalibration on your O2 sensor (mine was way off after a few years) and, for good measure, a throttle calibration.

One more thing: You can lean out your cruise zones to about 15.3 (don't jump from 14.7 to 15.3 immediately, but smooth it out) and gain some mpg without affecting drivability.

sparkstack

I'm sorry, but something is very wrong with your pc / serial cable then.

I just updated mine tonight to r61 and it took 30 seconds, tops. Same as the previous release. Same as the release before that. This using a Virtual Win7 machine on my Macbook Air, and a FTDI based USB to Serial cable.

asellus

+1

Maps take 2-3 seconds, firmware takes about 5. This is from a Dell DL830 running Win7.