Couple of Locost 7 craigslist ads...
#41
Boost Pope
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There's more to it than weight, of course. Placing a radiator in a vehicle body not originally designed to accommodate one is rarely done in a manner which is both effective and aesthetically pleasing.
#42
Are you kidding me? I can pick up a type 1 longblock (sans alternator / fan / manifolds) by myself. If a fully-dressed EJ20, with radiator and coolant, doesn't weigh twice as much as a fully dressed T1 with fan, I will eat my own hat.
There's more to it than weight, of course. Placing a radiator in a vehicle body not originally designed to accommodate one is rarely done in a manner which is both effective and aesthetically pleasing.
There's more to it than weight, of course. Placing a radiator in a vehicle body not originally designed to accommodate one is rarely done in a manner which is both effective and aesthetically pleasing.
There is some data on the build thread of the car... let me see if i can find it.
edit: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewto...p?f=19&t=97449
looks like ~60 based off officially avaiable numbers, maybe a few more for an alternator and radiator, 4 gallons MAX of water (~16lbs)
For DOUBLE the HP. No brainer question.
Last edited by golftdibrad; 09-27-2012 at 04:26 PM. Reason: found it
#43
The easiest route is to integrate the entire Miata rear subframe.
Others have designed their own rear control arms and modified the "Book" frame as necessary to locate the pick-up brackets and differential mounting points.
There are also plans for modifying the Haynes chassis for Miata uprights. http://www.ntsengineering.co.uk/asse...Guide-rev3.pdf
Others have designed their own rear control arms and modified the "Book" frame as necessary to locate the pick-up brackets and differential mounting points.
There are also plans for modifying the Haynes chassis for Miata uprights. http://www.ntsengineering.co.uk/asse...Guide-rev3.pdf
While alot of people have used the Miata Rear subframe is makes for a heavy car. I know I've run across a thread where someone was using the Miata front subframe as well. I'll have to find it.
#44
LocostUSA.com • View topic - My Tube Frame Miata Subframes build.
#47
Boost Pope
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(looks at hat.)
I must admit that looking at some of these links, especially the one where the fellow had some pieces of round steel tubing pre-bent into a nice atom-like radius by a local shop for virtually nothing, are starting to tempt me. The more I think about it, the more practical a stretched-and-widened Formula-Vee car is starting to seem.
#48
Hmm.
(looks at hat.)
I must admit that looking at some of these links, especially the one where the fellow had some pieces of round steel tubing pre-bent into a nice atom-like radius by a local shop for virtually nothing, are starting to tempt me. The more I think about it, the more practical a stretched-and-widened Formula-Vee car is starting to seem.
(looks at hat.)
I must admit that looking at some of these links, especially the one where the fellow had some pieces of round steel tubing pre-bent into a nice atom-like radius by a local shop for virtually nothing, are starting to tempt me. The more I think about it, the more practical a stretched-and-widened Formula-Vee car is starting to seem.
#49
mkturbo.com
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So I read the book from Gibbs last night. While it has a ton of good info in it, building the car from scratch is definitely above my head. I will probably stick with going with some sort of kit to get started when I finally get to building something.
#50
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That would be my dream car, yes. Single-seater, mid-engine, a bit of a storage compartment (for groceries, etc) between the driver and the engine.
Basically, just take a Formula Vee, stretch it by about 18 inches, and widen the driver's compartment by about six inches. And replace the bloody VW front beam and swingaxle rear with A-arms on all corners, using the '68 and later IRS-style transaxle.
Basically, something I'm not qualified to build.
Basically, just take a Formula Vee, stretch it by about 18 inches, and widen the driver's compartment by about six inches. And replace the bloody VW front beam and swingaxle rear with A-arms on all corners, using the '68 and later IRS-style transaxle.
Basically, something I'm not qualified to build.
#51
That would be my dream car, yes. Single-seater, mid-engine, a bit of a storage compartment (for groceries, etc) between the driver and the engine.
Basically, just take a Formula Vee, stretch it by about 18 inches, and widen the driver's compartment by about six inches. And replace the bloody VW front beam and swingaxle rear with A-arms on all corners, using the '68 and later IRS-style transaxle.
Basically, something I'm not qualified to build.
Basically, just take a Formula Vee, stretch it by about 18 inches, and widen the driver's compartment by about six inches. And replace the bloody VW front beam and swingaxle rear with A-arms on all corners, using the '68 and later IRS-style transaxle.
Basically, something I'm not qualified to build.
Like I told the FSAE guys the other day, don't get caught up in the details. If the suspension picks ups or off a tad, if the frame is not a torsionaly rigid as you predicted, if the engine makes a few less HP.... it will still be the fastest thing most of you will every drive, save for a shifter kart.
#52
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I can tack a couple of pieces of tubing together to form something which, with sufficient grinding, can plausibly be called an intake pipe. That's about the limit of my fabrication skills in this regard. The thought of driving around in a chassis that I built myself terrifies me.
#53
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Buying a chassis isn't that expensive in the grand scheme. By the time you figure in materials, a welder, and a means to cut the materials, it is about a wash. Sure, if you want something completely custom it'll cost you, but there are a lot of options. Plenty of builders who make Atom knockoffs, book/caterham frames for reasonable money.
Of course your best bet is to find an unfinished project and go from there.
I though you had an Atom knockoff in the works a while back. What happened to that one?
Of course your best bet is to find an unfinished project and go from there.
I though you had an Atom knockoff in the works a while back. What happened to that one?
#54
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The guy I was dealing with (the same fellow who built the chassis that golftdibrad has now) got hooked up with some other dude in a business arrangement that seemed a bit smarmy to me- they wanted to turn it into some kind of standard build, and he kept adding on little features and ratcheting the price up.
Around that same time the reality of trying to register a Subaru-powered kitcar with no MSO kind of came down on me.
That's actually one of the biggest appeals to me about the ACVW design- so long as you start with an engine built before 1966, you don't need to worry about the SB100 process. The vehicle will be automatically exempt. (Whether you elect to swap out said engine afterwards with something newer and turbocharged is entirely up to you.)
I'm just dreaming right now. Doubtful I'll be pulling the trigger on anything wild and exotic in the near future. If I *really* get bored, I might just buy an actual Formula Vee car (the older ones are insanely cheap) and just cut it in half and lengthen in.