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Old 02-17-2007, 06:51 PM   #1
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Default Cute, little guy. NASCAR edition welder, should I pick this up?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...5583&rd=1&rd=1

Besides the fact it's a nascar edition :gay: ...

I'm back and forth on this one. Is this thing overpriced or am I being a cheap SOB? It's in AZ so I could pick it up. The garage only has 110 available. Basically this would build my exhaust. It'll kick *** at that right? My experience consists of using the all-mighty ***-kicking welders at school, never used a small machine.

Buying used when it comes to welders. Good idea? Guess I'll just bring my helmet..
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:02 PM   #2
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:05 PM   #3
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Yes sir. So you're saying it's a bit overpriced yes? Maybe just not worth to chance it when I could get a new one for a couple hundred more. I really dislike it when the seller starts the bidding at some predetermined reserve price. It's kind of like saying, "since the bidding will never get this high, I'll just start it there.."





Maybe if it came with a matching NASCAR jacket?
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:06 PM   #4
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consider a new one is around 500-600. seems "ok" for under 350 and local pickup... I like the variable amperage instead of the HI/LO I/II crap. regulators aren't too pricey.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:08 PM   #5
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also you might be able to talk the dude out of some free accessories he has layin around.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:38 PM   #6
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eh. letting it go. Maybe I'll throw him an offer.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:45 PM   #7
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offer him 250 cash and you'll pick it up today
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:48 PM   #8
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exactly what I was thinking.

I emailed him.
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:20 PM   #9
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pawn shop.
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:17 AM   #10
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if your garage only has 110, and you own the home, talk to your electric company about adding a separate box to it. makes it easy to go above that.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:09 AM   #11
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No doubt 220 is the way to go. I'm on my second 110 mig. My first was a refurb campbell hausfeld ($250) that lasted about 5 years. It got me through the engine swap, but just barely. Tranformer started to go and it got to where I couldn't weld exhaust on the highest heat setting. I just picked up a new Clarke 110 (another cheapie) with a spool gun for aluminum. I've run a few beads of aluminum and they look a amaingly good. IMO if you can pick up a like new MIG 110 for $250 and it's a name brand, you're doing well.
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
if your garage only has 110, and you own the home, talk to your electric company about adding a separate box to it. makes it easy to go above that.
my parents house had 220 for the dryer just inside the garage door to the house. my dad took it upon himself to make a giant 220V extension cord to use his old school stick welder for building race cars in the garage. back in the late 60s.

not sure how safe it was drawing that much current but with big enough wire, I'm sure it's fine.
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:07 PM   #13
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So what kind of welding can you do with one of those welders?
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:54 PM   #14
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innershield (flux cored)
MIG
including mild, stianless, and aluminum with the right gas/feed stuff.
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:26 PM   #15
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I'll get a 220 when I get a new garage. My garage is 30ft. from the house, and the dryer is three floors up in the front. I need the power company to run an extension cord for me.

I recommend buying a cheap 110 MIG for anybody who even has the least bit interest in metal work. Even the 90amp Harbor Freight $200 unit is capable for most 'hobby' welding.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
my parents house had 220 for the dryer just inside the garage door to the house. my dad took it upon himself to make a giant 220V extension cord to use his old school stick welder for building race cars in the garage. back in the late 60s.

not sure how safe it was drawing that much current but with big enough wire, I'm sure it's fine.
My brother made the exact same thing. It's like 50 feet long.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:31 PM   #17
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converting to 220 isnt hard. you can rip out a 110 outlet and put a 220 in place....but it would be wiser to run a decated line, but whatever.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I'll get a 220 when I get a new garage. My garage is 30ft. from the house, and the dryer is three floors up in the front. I need the power company to run an extension cord for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
if your garage only has 110, and you own the home, talk to your electric company about adding a separate box to it. makes it easy to go above that.
I'd love to have 220 for sure. My garage is a building I built from scratch next to another freestanding building used for storage. It's like 100 yards away. It's not a straight-shot for the power line though, following the road to the garage it's probably 150 which should be a chunk of change.

Although expensive, there are 110/220 machines available which would be ideal.

If the guy takes 250-275 cash i'm getting it.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
spool gun for aluminum. I've run a few beads of aluminum and they look a amaingly good. IMO if you can pick up a like new MIG 110 for $250 and it's a name brand, you're doing well.
Which model spool gun? I've searched briefly, all I find are $$$.

Throw down some pics?
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
converting to 220 isnt hard. you can rip out a 110 outlet and put a 220 in place....but it would be wiser to run a decated line, but whatever.
While it is that easy, the wiring for 110V is a higher gauge than that used for 220V. If you were to do it that way you run a HIGH chance of catching the wall on fire, especially with the high amps that a mig welder will pull. The wires will heat up and the insulation will catch on fire.

Running an extension cord like that is fine and you can run it for any decent length without worrying about any problems. Just make sure that you have a lower gauge for long runs. The equation for resistance in a length of wire is:
resistance = coefficient of resistance for that metal x (length / cross-sectional area)
So the thicker wire the more reduces the importance of length. I'm not sure what the constant for copper is, but it doesn't matter because it is....constant. The only time extension cords become dangerous is when you start daisy chaining stuff on them because it increases the resistance.

I personally am gonna get one of those ac/dc inverter tigs that go for like $700-800. They are the cheapest ac/dc tigs and I have heard very positive reviews about them on various forums. From what ive read people can use them nonstop under like 120A. So its very efficient and runs pretty cool.
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