Daily Driver Thread
#302
The 135 is going back to the shop for the 4th time in 6 months, or 1000 miles. Oil change, then Oil Filter Housing Gasket, then reprogramming the transmission, now to find out what this very odd, metallic noise is. It doesn't sound like rod knock and N55s aren't known for wastegate rattle particularly. I'm hoping it's a loose heat shield or the belt tensioner and not the wastegate or bearings.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
#304
The point would be to get a few year old economy car, that's already taken a nice depreciation hit, still has some of the factory warranty and will generally not cause me a bunch of grief, while having modern amenities.
#305
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,499
Total Cats: 4,080
The 135 is going back to the shop for the 4th time in 6 months, or 1000 miles. Oil change, then Oil Filter Housing Gasket, then reprogramming the transmission, now to find out what this very odd, metallic noise is. It doesn't sound like rod knock and N55s aren't known for wastegate rattle particularly. I'm hoping it's a loose heat shield or the belt tensioner and not the wastegate or bearings.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
#306
Wastegate - If it's that, it needs a new turbo, apparently it can't be replaced on the N55 like it could on the old twin-turbo N54s.
Exhaust valve - I'll have him rip it out or rig it or something.
I really hope is the exhaust valve or belt tensioner. Those would be reasonable enough to be fixed.
#308
I suspect the incentives wouldn't be strong enough for me. If I trade it, the point would be to get as close to the 10k mark for something that isn't going to hassle me for the next 18 or so months. At that point, only remaining debt would be my mortgage, and then I could basically buy anything I want under $70k.
But I still probably won't even do that given how little I drive. I'm starting to get a hankering for another project car. So in that case, a truck as a DD to be able to tow an HPDE car makes more sense. But I'm not sure if I'll have the budget to do as much HPDE as I want, so that may not make sense.
Main thing right now, the amount of maintenance per mile since I've had this car has really bummed me out, to the point I don't really enjoy driving it anymore.
EDIT: I did go look for the heck of it, the Mazda dealers around here are advertising $5500-ish off '18 hatchbacks. If I planned on keeping it for awhile than giving it to the better half to replace her fit in a few years, that would be a hell of a deal.
But I still probably won't even do that given how little I drive. I'm starting to get a hankering for another project car. So in that case, a truck as a DD to be able to tow an HPDE car makes more sense. But I'm not sure if I'll have the budget to do as much HPDE as I want, so that may not make sense.
Main thing right now, the amount of maintenance per mile since I've had this car has really bummed me out, to the point I don't really enjoy driving it anymore.
EDIT: I did go look for the heck of it, the Mazda dealers around here are advertising $5500-ish off '18 hatchbacks. If I planned on keeping it for awhile than giving it to the better half to replace her fit in a few years, that would be a hell of a deal.
Last edited by z31maniac; 06-26-2019 at 06:23 PM.
#309
I suspect the incentives wouldn't be strong enough for me. If I trade it, the point would be to get as close to the 10k mark for something that isn't going to hassle me for the next 18 or so months. At that point, only remaining debt would be my mortgage, and then I could basically buy anything I want under $70k.
But I still probably won't even do that given how little I drive. I'm starting to get a hankering for another project car. So in that case, a truck as a DD to be able to tow an HPDE car makes more sense. But I'm not sure if I'll have the budget to do as much HPDE as I want, so that may not make sense.
Main thing right now, the amount of maintenance per mile since I've had this car has really bummed me out, to the point I don't really enjoy driving it anymore.
EDIT: I did go look for the heck of it, the Mazda dealers around here are advertising $5500-ish off '18 hatchbacks. If I planned on keeping it for awhile than giving it to the better half to replace her fit in a few years, that would be a hell of a deal.
But I still probably won't even do that given how little I drive. I'm starting to get a hankering for another project car. So in that case, a truck as a DD to be able to tow an HPDE car makes more sense. But I'm not sure if I'll have the budget to do as much HPDE as I want, so that may not make sense.
Main thing right now, the amount of maintenance per mile since I've had this car has really bummed me out, to the point I don't really enjoy driving it anymore.
EDIT: I did go look for the heck of it, the Mazda dealers around here are advertising $5500-ish off '18 hatchbacks. If I planned on keeping it for awhile than giving it to the better half to replace her fit in a few years, that would be a hell of a deal.
I did better than that, but I was at the right place at the right time. Wasn't really in need of something right now, but the deal was too good to pass on.
#314
I am surprisingly satisfied with the 6spd auto in the hatch. I was growing tired of a manual in traffic. No it doesn't shift as fast as a DCT, but it is better than most autos I'm familiar with. Putting it in manual mode, sport engaged and using the paddles takes the boring out as needed. I believe it shifts a tiny bit faster in sport mode.
#315
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,499
Total Cats: 4,080
Are you talking about the wastegate on the turbo, or the valve at the back of the exhaust that controls volume?
Wastegate - If it's that, it needs a new turbo, apparently it can't be replaced on the N55 like it could on the old twin-turbo N54s.
Exhaust valve - I'll have him rip it out or rig it or something.
I really hope is the exhaust valve or belt tensioner. Those would be reasonable enough to be fixed.
Wastegate - If it's that, it needs a new turbo, apparently it can't be replaced on the N55 like it could on the old twin-turbo N54s.
Exhaust valve - I'll have him rip it out or rig it or something.
I really hope is the exhaust valve or belt tensioner. Those would be reasonable enough to be fixed.
Coworker showed me his appreciation in the parking lot today:
#316
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Coral Springs, FL
Posts: 187
Total Cats: 57
The 135 is going back to the shop for the 4th time in 6 months, or 1000 miles. Oil change, then Oil Filter Housing Gasket, then reprogramming the transmission, now to find out what this very odd, metallic noise is. It doesn't sound like rod knock and N55s aren't known for wastegate rattle particularly. I'm hoping it's a loose heat shield or the belt tensioner and not the wastegate or bearings.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
But honestly at this point, I may just go trade it in on a cheap, used Focus hatch or Mazda 3 hatch for the next year or so. It's hard to enjoy the car when it's constantly having issues.
Pretty ridiculous for a car that doesn't even have 34k miles on it.
As for the rattle, the n55's aren't as prone to it as the n54's, but it can happen. I had a similar rattle on mine that turned out to be the belt tensioner however. Worth checking that out first since it's cheap/easy to fix. Braineack also brings up a good point on the exhaust valve flapper. IIRC (and im a little fuzzy on this since I got rid of my 135i back in 2015), you can just go into the driver side trunk near the taillight, disconnect line running to the actuator and jam a golf tee in the line to disable it.
#318
my 135i was a giant pain in the *** too. I had all sorts of issues with the DCT gearbox randomly throwing an overheating fault, even when the sensors were reading normal temps. Traded the car in and never looked back.
As for the rattle, the n55's aren't as prone to it as the n54's, but it can happen. I had a similar rattle on mine that turned out to be the belt tensioner however. Worth checking that out first since it's cheap/easy to fix. Braineack also brings up a good point on the exhaust valve flapper. IIRC (and im a little fuzzy on this since I got rid of my 135i back in 2015), you can just go into the driver side trunk near the taillight, disconnect line running to the actuator and jam a golf tee in the line to disable it.
As for the rattle, the n55's aren't as prone to it as the n54's, but it can happen. I had a similar rattle on mine that turned out to be the belt tensioner however. Worth checking that out first since it's cheap/easy to fix. Braineack also brings up a good point on the exhaust valve flapper. IIRC (and im a little fuzzy on this since I got rid of my 135i back in 2015), you can just go into the driver side trunk near the taillight, disconnect line running to the actuator and jam a golf tee in the line to disable it.
At least one of the rear 245/35/18 Pilot Super Sports has a nail in it. At least it's in a place that it should be an easy patch job.
I had all the adaptions reset in the DCT, and that seems to have fixed most of it. But talking to other owners, most have resigned to the fact that they have to do it once, maybe twice a season to keep it acting right.