I am going to stick with it being a bad contact somewhere or possibly the main relay. I don't think it would be the ignition switch as it would seem that it would go back to acting normal on everything but start if it was messed up and not need to undo the battery to reset it.

Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there.

or, why don't i use a test light on the ignition switch terminal at the starter and see if it lights up when i crank the ignition?

Is this a manual or automatic?

manual.

Just about to ask if he tried push starting it.

I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.

So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off? These can look good and clean, but when you take them off there is a gunk that has formed between the positive lead and positive in on the starter. There is something wrong between the positive lead on the battery and positive terminal on the starter. It may be the wire itself, but I strongly believe this area to be the culprit.

I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.

That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.

Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?

I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.

Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....

I did when the power first died. the car shut off, as with ALL power. so when i tried to as I was rolling down the hill, nothing happened because there was no power to anything. apparently things like injectors and coils needs energy. crazy.

yeah, i took it off when i pulled the 12v wire off the starter.

Even lost the power to my little red LED for the security light. That typically flashes if there's an issue.

here's a new video for you guys:




somehow i looped the same video twice in my attempt at drama. damn. i cant do anything right.

Before you repeat your steps, try this.

DMM positive lead to positive terminal only, not battery cable, or end.(leave everything hooked up, and only touch the center of the terminal.

DMM negative lead to engine ground (anywhere), not battery.

It should read the same as if you just tested the battery normally on positive, and negative terminals. ~12v-14v


Do the test again after you disconnect and reconnect battery, and run through your sequence to get everything off again.

What is your findings.

is the car automatic or manual?

thanks for the link bro

no comments on video? skip to 1:41.

I just watched the video.

Scott! :facepalm:

useful comments?

That terminal on the battery looks corroded and you just loosely have it on there. Tighten it down on the terminal well.

they didn't fit well on the miata battery terminals, I had aluminum foil on the post to fill it in.

there's no corrosion. i promises.

You need better contact than that. I think, if all your main positive lines check out ok, then it is your battery. The setup you are using with the miata battery should not eliminate the battery as the cause. Did they load test the battery when you took it in or just say it was giving 12v back?

I just got back from load testing my battery, it's good for load, amps, and voltage, it's still at 12.6v right now.


so okay, how come with the miata battery hooked up, if I try to crank the car without the 12v lead to the starter hooked up, all is well, no power cuts out. But when I hooked the power wire back up to the starter solenoid, and tried it again for the video, the power cuts out and I cant restore power until I disconnect and reconnect the battery.

also, why does it take so long for the voltage to drop when I unplug it?

It is not the Battery.

Its probably that clusterfuck of grounds you have there.

Please do me test.

my grounds are ------- badass.

they are solid. but yeah, leftovers from when I wanted a fast car, obviously you get a grounding kit to do that.

What do I get if I give you the answer?

free hugs.

lol you intended to mod that Altima?

I had a cold air intake and exhaust on it at one point. i learned to autox on it and blew most others in my class away.

it also ran a 15.7 in the 1/4 mile.


now fix my street/track car.

Fusible link.

elaborate.


the 100A fuse in the fuse box still looked good to me, if you are suggesting it blew. That was the first thing I looked for, on the side of the road, with my wife upset with me.

Yes, or the wiring to it.
Take the fuse box apart, and check.

I'm getting frustrated looking for pics/info on a car that is not in front of me. There are so many pics, and I don't know what yours looks like.

Forget battery. Forget solinoid.

You have a cable/wiring problem.

Have you performed the test I suggested?
This will tell me some info to help diagnose.

God here.

It's your fuking grounds.

i have a worthless tip:

whatever you did to make your miata run like ass

and you did to your altima to make it run like ass

DONT DO IT TO YOUR WIFE'S CAR

Clip both the red and black jumper cable ends to the negative battery terminal. With the other end, put one clamp on a good engine ground and one on a good chassis ground.

Fix it?

Yes... Good, put a good ground on it.

No... Try doing the same with the positive, but put the clamp on the starters main terminal and the other to the fuse boxes main junction bolt if it has one.

Fix it?

Yes...Sweet, fix a power wire.

No... Haul it to a shop and let them sort out the mess.

If this helps solve your problem, you should give me some love with a few free months of subscription... :D

This is the same direction I was going with my test, only you could narrow down where the fault is with mine.

This is a good test as well, and easier.

will have to be saturday morn before i fool around with it again. I'll try these testies.

Just junk the altima and pick up a Lexus IS-F

A running altima is worth more than a non-running altima when a trade-in is concerned. Like I said, just need it to get through winter.

Scott, where does your battery (-) cable terminate?
Have you checked if that connection is good?

Also, have you checked your engine ground strap?

Since you have a DMM, just check and see what sort of resistance you have between:

* Battery (-) and engine block (with the (-) cable in place, of course)
* Engine block and chassis
* Battery and chassis.

Do these checks with the key off and key on engine off.
You should not see anything more than 0.1 ohms.
If you see high resistance in any of these tests, clean and re-check the grounds.

Also, set the DMM to measure draw (amps) and remove the battery (+) cable. Hook up one lead of the DMM on the battery (+) terminal, and the other lead on the (+) cable you have removed from the battery terminal.

Do this test with the key off, and key on, and post the results please.

Also, I am not very familiar with Nissans. Do they have a central circuit opening relay like Toyotas do?


You can also eliminate bad/coroded/shorted switch issues by hooking up a lead with an alligator clip on the starter solenoid. Just touch the other end of that lead on the battery (+). The engine should crank. (please remember to leave it in neutral)
Now, turn the key on, and touch that lead again on the battery (+). What happens then?
(Theoretically speaking, the car should start)

One more thing.. Does your DMM have an amp clamp? That could be very useful, if you have that.

The amp clamp is an inductive pickup. Just clamp it on ALL the wires on the (+) side of the battery and try cranking the engine normally.
Please post the results if you can do that test.

connects to the frame at the stock graound strap location, the alternator, and the head. Been this way since probably late 2001.

I'll keep all the rest in mind.

you can borrow my amp clamp if you put a battery in it.

cool bro. maybe the next time we get together for the gym I could grab it................................

new starter did the trick. Thanks guys! I'll post a video later, I gave you guys a nice shout out.

look at that

Man your car needs gas, what are you planning on ricing with? Hopes and dreams?

its half full bro. you're looking at the coolant temp gauge.

No, its half empty.

the fuel tank is at half capacity.

Whats that yellow light? Check engine light?

Glad you found the problem. Shoulda hot wired it though, would have known the problem much sooner.

now moar boost?

Yeah, from unplugging a few fuses. It was for my EGR and Idle valve, because the fuse to run them was still out. It's been reset with my odbII scanner and all seems well.

yeah, well I've never done that before. I tried it before I swapped and it didn't work, sparked like hell (battery + to the starter switch terminal) and didn't turn the motor.

I dunno if it's just because I have a new starter, but the thing sounds odd during cranking. But as long as it continues to start...whatever.

Maybe the starter is newer/stronger so you get higher cranking RPM?

yeah my exhaust rattles a bit when cranking it seems. i also had one of the bolts not quite to torque so it might have been play on the gears. all is well now though.


so:

Brain - wins.

Rev, y8s, 18psi, gospeed, curly, Joe, pusha, my mother, everybody's brother - loses.

f u :fawk:

no ---- all you for wasting my time checking the battery :)

I still say its the battery
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343000471

lol. current battery is still pumping hal and oates like a baus through my 12" sub and 500 watt amp.

you listen to gay music